pjoe

Chas, I was unable to get the original style boot to fit. I had to use the boot from a 73. The clearance is tight but in that picture the transmission is in 1st or 3rd. I didn't want to worry about my weld breaking if I did it that way. Good welders wouldn't have a problem though.

The shifter in post #4 has not been cut and rewelded. I used an oxy/acetylene torch to heat it and bend it. Once I got it close I heated it up again and flattened it out on the top. I probably didn't need to trim the couple mm's of sheet metal and I did not modify the console at all. This method takes a little bit of patience. Heat it then bend it and test it the do it again and again. While your bending it, keep a bolt in the pin hole so it doesn't get distorted. I have put plenty of miles on it and never had a problem. It's not hard to do. You just need patience and a hot torch. Good luck. Brian

But think how much fun it will be to wear them out again.

This was at grip fest in North Carolina in 2012. Great event put together by grip syndicate.

I just removed mine last weekend. 1 bolt and 2 studs with nuts on them. Came off no problem. Must just be stuck on there. You could try tapping it with a rubber mallet

Guy....please tell me your gonna leave the steel wheels on it painted flat black. I have some black bumpers that will match perfectly.

I think you can plug the brake booster line off for your tuning purposes and then hook it back up before you drive it again. If it idles well but when you step on brake it drops down, your booster or hose going to it is most likely leaking.

I just put my rear sway bar on after 2 years of slacking and I wish I had done it a long time ago. My front and rear are both 1" and I have urethane end link bushings on front and rubber on the back. I am very happy with how it handles.

Haven't been on site in a while and not sure if this has been shared or not but if not here it is. Kinda cool to see a 240z on the list of cars growing in value. Yahoo!

I have driven car for about a year now including 10 laps around a road course at gripfest and have had no problems with the shifter. This shifter is for a 4 speed type B transmission. Not a 5 speed. Not sure if there is any difference that would make this shifter not work with a 5 speed. If 5 speed is same as type B transmission except for the extra gear, I would think it would work fine.

Thats is correct. I heated and bended then tried it. Took me 4 or 5 times to get it right. All together I spent an hour or 2 doing it. Brian

How do you guys balance carbs at 3000 rpm? If I try with my sk meter, the meter is off the scale and unreadable. Also how do you keep it at steady 3000 without using throttle stop screws and messing up balance at idle or am I missing something? I just visually balanced throttle linkage operation and its pretty good but maybe it can be better. Its perfect at idle as far as balance goes. Milgeo....from a seat of pants tuner, I would try going up on idle jet and see if it makes a difference. Are your plugs on the white side after idling for a few minutes? Brian

Any caps left?

Just got the new headliner. Is the 3M heavy duty adhesive good to spray it with? Last time I, I sprayed the roof and the headliner then let it sit for 10 minutes or so and then put liner up. Was probably 70 degrees in garage.

So you taking it to Chuck next week? We all know its just a matter of time. Looks good.

If anything I'll bolt on SU's and save webers for later use but Im not even close to given up on them yet. They run pretty good for how I drive. I assume everyone agrees 60f8's will not help. Your 151's have 3 progression holes too, right?

Yeah thats about what everyone says. I also live in the city and most of my driving is short trips around neighborhood. My biggest challenge was getting the throttles to open at EXACTLY the same time. That made all the difference in the world when it came to just off idle driving. I also have the air bleed screws turned out 1 or 2 turns past what was needed to ballance air flow between barrels of carb. Its fun around town but really fun out of town.

I have set(6) of 65f9 idle jets, 165, 170 air correctors if anyone needs them. Im running 45's(152) on a stock L24 with 2.5" 3-2-1 headers. Chokes 36, 60f9 idle, 145 main, 195 air, f16 e tube. I dont have a o2 sensor but it runs very good right now. Definately rich at idle but transition is pretty smooth. All of my jetting decisions have been made based off of spark plug color. I thought about trying a 60F8 to see if idle will lean out some without affecting transition to mains but my guess is that it will. Glad to see people willing to contribute...jets get expensive. Oh yeah...last time I checked, probably with little different jetting, my milage was about 20 mpg. Brian

Just had to pop my hood yesterday after the cable broke. Took longer to get car on jackstands than to pop hood. I used about a 8 inch flat head screwdriver on the passenger side from under the car and stuck it in under the latch and pushed lever to open hood. Keep screwdriver parallel to hood and towards firewall inside the triangle sheet metal and push lever. I know thread is old but may help in future.

Has anyone had problems with their headliner seperating? I put mine up 3 months ago and it just started drooping. I thought maybe I didn't use enough glue but when I checked it, the mesh that goes against the roof was still glued to the roof but the vinyl and foam were drooping. Was I supposed to take that mesh stuff off or is this liner just falling apart? MSA says they will send a new one which is cool that they stand behind thier products like that but did I screw it up or does it sound like its defective?