Davey G

Just got the 78 out of the shop and breaking it in after a rebuild. Used N42 block, head (gasket match porting), and intake. I went with flattop pistons for ~10.3:1 compression and the cam got a regrind from Elgin to a Stage 2-2.5, triple ground valves w/Isky springs, a 6-3-2 header, and 2.5" exhaust. I had already lowered it with Eibach progressively wound springs and KYBs. I've got the Koenig rewinds as well. Gotta get those bumpers off of there! This is my daily driver.

Finally got my 280Z back home. I'm in the break-in period, so no WOT stuff yet, but up to 3500 rpm no detonation. Much more torque than I'd expect from a .485/.270 cam with flat tops, even more than stock. 1000 rpm to 3500 rpm feels great, big improvement. I'll report more as I'm able to open 'er up more and more.

Zedy Are you running conventional oil or synthetic in your '71's new engine? Why? Davey G

I'm to pick up my 280 Thursday or Friday of this week. At <3000 rpm there have been no signs of detonation. I'll see if that holds true above that, as the 485/270 cam will let the engine easily rev to 6500 rpm now. I may need to come to League City to let you have a look at her.

I took the '78 280Z on a 75mi test drive on Saturday. Everything was fine, but I kept it 3000 rpm and less during this break-in period. With the low-rpm-only driving I'm not sure if I have any detonation, but I did run 93 octane Shell premium for the test. The higher compression, cam, headers and 2.5" exhaust will not be utilized much until revving past 3000. More tweaking of timing, fuel pressure, etc. this week, as well as a/c. I may have her back home by this weekend. :laugh:

No go on my 280Z yet either. I do expect to do the test drive sometime this week. There will be some fine tuning and last items after that, but she'll be coming home soon, and I'll have to put her through the paces.

I'll let you know when it's back home. Everyone says the stock Bosch EFI will not play well with anything but a stock cam, though Motorsport says it will with the milder Stage 1/2 cams. I've got a custom grind on a Nissan OEM cam at about .485/.270 with somewhere around 10.4 - 10.5:1 CR, so I'm about to find out who is right. I may be buying a case of octane boost soon:ermm:.

Zedyone, I am in Pearland, TX and am at the end of a similar N42/N42 w/flattops rebuild, albeit not with Enji, and with EFI. Initial startup is today with break-in over the next few days. Thanks for starting the thread and let us know how things go from here. I'll do the same.

Thanks. I'll try that. -dg

I did notice a loose wire while I was changing the bulbs, but it was over by the antennae so I didn't check it (non-stock antennae). I'll check it out.

None of the bulbs seem burned out...filaments intact. Put 2 new ones in yesterday...nothing. -dg

First I started going through replacement brake lights, the last one only lasting a week. Now the brake lights won't come on at all. The running lights are fine, as are the other lights. Any ideas?

Well, I finally did something about this. Kin Lee @ Reliable Auto who specializes in Zs here in Houston eliminated my expansion valve and redid the a/c with an engine bay dryer and filter. Since we had to remove the dash I also changed all dash lights, reinstalled a MSA rebuilt clock, installed new/old center vents, a rebuilt heater core & control valve, new foam on the vent doors, lubed all cables, installed the upgraded blower motor, and put on a full dash cap. It all went back together nice and tight, and just in time...it's supposed to be 90 tomorrow here in Houston!

Well between Houston's summer heat and now our harsh winter I am giving in to do the a/c repairs heat repair upgrade the blower motor (the bearings are starting to squeal anyway) another clock to put in also replace all dash lights with 4 watt bulbs while I'm at it The dash will also get the dash cap while it's out as well. Question - While I've got the dash out what else do I need to do while I'm under there?

Did the car not want to rev to 6000rpm before this?

My leak between the exhaust manifold and downpipe doesn't help either, but that's being fixed as I type. Hopefully that will make some difference.

Sounds like I may be experiencing the`same.

Anybody?

Mine is a 78 280Z. It had a 4 speed tranny when my friend bought it a year ago. He replaced that with a 5-speed. When I bought it from him in Feb I replaced all fluids, including the transmission and differential fluid. The a/c went out in June, so I started driving with the windows down. It was then I noticed a lot of transmission whine, especially when I am by some barrier like fence or wall. It quits if I disengage the clutch and just coast. It drives and shifts fine, even at different speeds. Have I got a problem, or is this just a noisy transmission? Davey G

But doesn't a larger gauge wire here let the headlights burn brighter...or was that on the older cars only?

Interesting timing on this one. Mine failed Thursday evening on I-10 50 miles west of Houston. I sat on the side of the road until midmight as my friend I was following did not notice me pull over, and could not hear his phone ring any of the 15 times I tried to call. :mad: I got it back to the Walmart in Sealy after a jump and parked it. However, the next day when I checked, it had a battery with a failed cell and a failed alternator. I found a battery, then on a whim checked with the local O'Reilley for the alternator. Lo and behold they could have a rebuilt one there by 4:15 PM the same day! I told them to get it there, but honestly thought it would be the wrong one. But when it arrived it was the same as my Hitachi...it was a Hitachi...and for $60! I installed it in the Walmart parking lot and was on my way. Kudos to O'Reilley for having Z parts in stock. I kept the bad alternator rather than turning in the core as I intend to have it rebuilt in Houston and ready to go should this one fail over the next few years.

Thanks. I had spoken too soon. The a/c will cool for 10 min, then stop cooling. I can switch to vent for 3+ min, then back to a/c and it will begin to cool again. Better than cooking, but now I am the expansion valve!!! I'll contact Oliver.

My a/c started working again...without doing a thing to it! Weird. I'll see how long it lasts.

Yep, I can't find them. The Nissan part # is 27625-U5 225. No luck. If anyone has a CURRENT source for these, please let me know. And it's hot in Houston right now...

Did he buy it?