Mike
Administrator
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Joined
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Everything posted by Mike
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From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Front vent and wiring ready for the engine. -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
This is a custom bracket made to fit the smaller size of the Optima cel battery. -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
The front windshield, and all the dust -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Mike's Z Progress -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Mike's Z Progress -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Mike's Z Progress -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Mike's Z Progress -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Progress on the Z beast.. -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Progress on the Z beast.. -
From the album: 1971 240z Jedi
Headlight buckets. Do they look like a different color of yellow to you? -
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Only problem is that you need an original panel to cover... The hardened cardboard stuff is hard to find anymore.
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Point gap looks kinda small. I also see pitting where the point seized together. You should replace the points. Get new ones at Napa or directly from Nissan. Don't buy cheap points. While you're at it, get a new distributor cap & rotor (from Nissan preferably). I'm not saying this will fix your problem, but, I believe you should always start with a good set of points and a new cap/rotor. They are cheap (less than $20 for all). These things corrode and can become pitted causing resistance. -- Mike
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Hmm... I'd pick one over anything else... CORRECT.
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That's completely out of line... Someone has GOT to start making these aftermarket.
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Get used to it. I'm not sure why, but, all body shops are the same. Of course they don't like it when you hold the check after the project is done either.
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In Alaska? I'd worry about the snow. If you buy a canopy, make sure it's got metal roofing at least. You don't want snow to cave in causing the structure to scratch your car. For a Z with no rust, can you afford to store it in a garage over the winter? I'd think storage places in Alaska would be pretty cheap.
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Hi Mckrack, Nobody here is asking you to leave. I must also admit that there is no reason to prove who you are. This is a website where we freely exchange information about the Classic Zcar. As long as that concept is maintained, there is no reason to worry. Now, back to the topic.... Did we ever determine the correct colors of both the hubcaps and the rear panel? I'm interested in this because I have a car under restoration and would like to know... -- Mike
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I went and took a few more pictures this last week. Engine is just about done and I expect we'll be installing that in a few weeks. Note the headlight buckets are installed and headlights are in. Wiring harness is complete and I simply need to make the main 10ga connection on the inside, patch it up, and re-install the glovebox. Wiring tests are complete and things are looking very good. Crap, it looks like something broke on the image upload process. Working on that now.
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Nice !! Congrats on the fame !
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Tell your shop to paint all the parts at the same time using the same mix of paint. I've discovered that paint mixes can vary in tint depending on how generous the "mixer" is when he/she blends the colors together to make the right color. In my case, I waited a few years between painting the headlight buckets from the fenders and now I have two different colors. Also remove all the glass and exterior bits (handles, lights, etc) if you can.
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When did they do that?! What a crock.... Frankly, I think it was still a problem when the user ID's were shown. I was outbid on many "no-reserve" items at the last possible minute by a new user with 0 feedback. I agree, however, that it will become worse now that they are hiding this information. PS: That car is FUGLY!!!
