Mike

Never know what will happen with that car. He hasn't called and I have no confirmation that he'll pick it up. He does have some money down on it. So, he's got first shot at it.

Yep, the site changed again. At least you'll never get bored coming to this place. Something new to see all the time. Anyway, do you like the new look? We went for a blend of the original XP theme along with the features of a tab-style theme. The tabs at the top make it much easier to navigate. And, in fact, this new look loads faster than our old look. Let us know what you think. Your vote is anonymous.

Let's also not forget the fact that we all come from different parts of the world. Along with this comes different social systems, communication etiquette, transportation systems, etc... And, let's not forget that our Z's are different. Don't get pissed at each other because of these differences. After reading the message thread myself, I only see a lot of useful information within the posts. Sure, there was some uncalled-for personall slamming, but, that's the stuff we need to avoid. So, back to it... eh? :tapemouth

Guys, this isn't getting anywhere. Should I start deleting members and pissing everyone off? Nope. You're all adults. Deal with it like you would in real life. Getting pissed at each other probably isn't the best solution.

Guys, cut the flamage. I like a nice debate, but, keep it Z related... thanks. No harm done.

This sounds like an ad to me. Carguyinok, are you an investor or owner of dri-wash?

Did you have a buyer for this?

Hi all, I sold my '75 280z, but, I'm keeping the engine (totally blown) and EFI. I'm thinking about using it as a possible solution for my '71 240z project. But, I really don't know what I should remove. Anyone have experience moving EFI from one car to another?

Sorry, this car has been sold.

Sell the 350z.

Posted to the mailing list by Carl Beck: Hi Gang: In my earlier Post - I referred to a "#1, #2 and #3 car"... several people ask exactly what that meant. So I thought I'd Post this information again. "The Old Cars Price Guide" is just one of several value guides published in the Classic, Collectible and Special Interest market. The values given are just "guides".. not absolute values and they are based on data collected at public auctions and reported from speciality dealers as well as experts for the various marquees. The National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) also publishes price guides - their "Cars of Particular Interest" (CPI) book covers Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Automobiles. Automobile Dealers that belong to NADA fill out sales forms for every car they sell and report the sales data to NADA - who in turn publish the data in their value guides. At any point in time - any of these guides can be badly out of date for any particular marque. Usually the keep the most popular marquees (Ford, Chevy, Ferrari etc) pretty current because lots of them are bought/sold at the monthly auctions and because most of the people buying their price guides buy/sell those cars. For many years the values of Datsun 240-Z's lagged the market prices - within the last two years however the guides seem to have been catching up with the actual market (no doubt Nissan's Vintage Z Program helped in that regard). Below are the quality grade/ranking/evaluations - definitions. found in the Old Cars Price Guide - and I put the "values" from my earlier Post on this subject beside them in brackets. Also note that these value guides apply ONLY to Pure Stock/Original examples. Old Cars Price Guide says: #1 EXCELLENT ($16K to $18K) - Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95+ point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in #1 condition is likely to win top honors in it's class. In a sense it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown it is stored in a climate controlled facility. It is not driven. There are very few #1 cars. #2 FINE: ($12.5K to $14.5K) - Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. Except for the very closest of inspection a #2 vehicle may appear as a #1. The #2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off against a #1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800 - 1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours, and simply for pleasure. #3 - Very Good: ($7.5 to $8.5K) Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a 20 footer - that is, from 20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpet. The chrome trim while still quite presentable, may have lost the sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are #3's..... #4 Good: ($4.5K) - A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, the car is mostly usable "as is". This is a driver - It may be in the process of restoration or it owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.. #5 Restorable ($2.5K to $3.5K) - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won;t have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts. #6 Parts Car - May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts. == = = = = = = = = end OCPG quote = = = = = = = = = = Also keep in mind that these guides are written mostly for "Collectors" and "Restorers" so they judge cars very critically. If there is any question in your mind which category a car may fall into - it automatically falls into the next lower classification. Also keep in mind that supply and demand play a huge role in valuations - people will pay over the value guides as supplies dry up, if there are limited numbers of cars in their area of the country etc. Let's face it - the most expensive 240-Z's are still cheap relative to todays pricing on cars - so a grand or three one way or the other won't stop the world. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA IZCC #260 http://ZHome.com 69, 70, 71, 72, 72 & 73 BRE Z ------------------------------------ Internet 240z Club - http://www.240z.org To unsubscribe: http://www.240z.org/mailman/listinfo/list

Naw, there are two threads about this topic. This thread is from the poll itself. The other thread was in the news section. Sorry about the confusion. Here's the link to the other thread with more comments: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4231

So, do I assume that you can no longer purchase wiring harnesses from Nissan? That's one of my next steps in the restoration of my '71.