Mike

Okay, here are a few ideas: 1) Make sure you have spark. a) Remove the main wire from the distributor cap (center wire) and place it near a metal surface. Crank the engine. You should see sparks. Put the wire back. Remove spark plug #1 and place it on a metal surface. Crank the engine. It should spark. Repeat for all plugs. c) Check the firing order on the wires from the distributor cap. You'll have to check a manual for this info. Check both the cap and the plugs to make sure they are connected properly. 2) Make sure you have fuel. a) Remove the aircleaner. Check for proper operation of the SU pistons. c) Crank the engine.. do you smell gas? d) Buy some starter fluid and use just a little to see if the engine is trying to start but has no fuel. e) If the SU's have sat for some time or if they are way out of adjustment... tighten the mixture nuts all the way down and back them off about 3 full turns. 3) Make sure your engine has compression. If you have tried all of the above.... something basic is missing. These cars operate on a very basic scientific theory. So, it's probably something simple. If there is fuel, air, and fire... it should ignite and SOMETHING should be happening. If nothing is happening.... the fuel might not be good? Starter fluid should help determine this.

How much do you want for a RB26DETT shipped to my door (Oregon)?

Hey sled, Do you remember which sleeve you used for the new throw-out bearing? There are different sizes and you should use the one made for the transmission you're installing. Here's a link to a write-up about this issue done by Eric over at Zparts.com. http://www.zparts.com/zptech/comparisons/pages/4tobear_specs1.html Did you ever manage to get them apart again? This can be difficult sometimes. [m]

This is some excellent information as posted to our mailing list: >Hey guys! Does anyone know a rough estimated price_for a frame up >restoration? >The body of my 73 240Z isn't bad off but the more I hear you guys >talk...I think this is >the way I am going to want to go. Keep in mind I am not horribly >mechanically inclined >so this would most likely be done at a shop. (Need to find one of >those here in >Maryland too.) Hi Shannon: Let's just assure that the terms we use have the same meaning to both of us. "Restoration" - to return to "as new" condition. The "goal" of restoring a Classic Car is to return it in every detail to the condition it was in when it left the factory. If you contracted out the entire job - as Nissan Motors USA did with their Vintage Z program - you would need about $50,000.00 today. They lost money on a volume deal with the restoration shops - and they sold the last examples for $29,995.00. If you supplied most of the "grunt" labor - took the car completely apart yourself - contracted out the body work, sent the engine out to be rebuilt (as well as most of the mechanical things like carb's rebuilt, re-end, tranny, etc etc.). Then purchased all the detail trim parts/pieces and re-assembled the car yourself... you can easily spend $25K to $30K in addition to the price of the car - IF you start with a very nice car to begin with. (remember here we are talking about "every" detail being OEM") Let's say you really don't want to "Restore" it - just "Refresh" it. In that case lets say that you want to keep it stock - you want it very nice - but you are not concerned with every detail being "as it left the factory". Let's say you are willing to have a lot of things less than "brand new" and less than as "original" - but you just want them to look and operation well. You would be willing to use reproduction parts for example - and newer parts to replace superceded older parts etc. As above - If you sent it out - you might get by with $20K to $25K having someone else to everything (instead of $50K). If you do the grunt work - and make reasonable decisions, shop for bargain parts, etc etc - you might get away with spending between $10K and $15K in addition to the price of the car today. The only reason I can think of to "restore" or "refresh" a 240-Z today - is because you love doing the work... If you want a restored or refreshed 240-Z it's almost always far less expensive and for sure far less work to simply go spend the money it takes to buy one that's already done. (As long as you know what your buying!!!). Today "restored" or perfect original 240-Z's are $16,500.00 to $18,500 (and higher) - "refreshed" 240-Z's are $12,500 to $15,000.00. Less than half what you would spend doing one today. The guy that just paid $14K for that "refreshed" (poorly refreshed) 70 on e-bay could have put an additional $4K with it and had a near perfect Z... with 14K miles.. http://ZHome.com/ITSSale/71ForSale.htm or an absolutely beautiful but slightly modified 240-Z for the same money... http://ZHome.com/ITSSale/Resnick.htm FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA IZCC #260 ------------------------------------ Internet 240z Club - http://www.240z.org To unsubscribe: http://www.240z.org/mailman/listinfo/list

Price and where did you get them?

If you want to change your screen name let me know. Glad to see you're finally in a Zcar! And, congrats on the other kid as well.

I like 'em!! Look good. Only problem with wheels like that is CLEANING!!! Get ready to spend an hour on the wheels alone.

Agreed, flip the wires around 180 degrees on the distributor cap and see what happens. I had this same problem. Ends up that my engine rebuilder put the distributor shaft in 180 degrees off!! I fought with the thing for at least 2-3 days and was terribly pissed. Then a friend came over and said... "Man, it sounds like the timing is totally off" We flipped it around and it started right up. Worth a try.

Hi Henry, Can you post information about that dealer? And, where are you buying your engine from?

Zwolley, take a look near the bottom of each thread. You'll see something called "Printer Friendly Version"... click that and you'll get a page ready for your printer.

Luck of the straw my friend. You help avoid those odds by looking both ways before you head into an intersection -- even if it's your green light. And stay far away from Minivans and Volvos. :dead:

The tab-menu theme is still around. Nobody really liked the other themes, so, I removed them to make room for the most popular ones. Well, nonetheless, unless we create a new theme from scratch we will stick with these. I took the mixture of all the good points about each theme and combined them into this one. Nice graphics that load fast as well as bright colors and non-confusing content. PS: I can get a custom theme designed for our site, but, that would cost about $750. We'll go down that road as soon as we raise enough money. Gotta keep in mind that we have expenses every month to pay for the server.

Yea, the battery tray was removed so I could get in there with a sandblaster and deal with the surface rust. I wanted to make sure it was absolutely GONE! The tray was powder-coated and I plan to drill a few holes to bolt it in place. This way, it's removable in case I need to get in there again. Of course I will use stainless bolts. Too bad titanium bolts are so expensive.

Of what ?

I just uploaded more picts of my Zcar as it sits right now. Not much has changed in the past few years except for some additional dust. That's about to change here soon. Can't believe it took me this long just to get the images uploaded to my gallery!!! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3048&ppuser=4&thumb=1