Mike

Here's a great shot I took of a Fairlady logo I photographed at the MSA Nationals. I dunno, maybe you can do something with it... worth a shot anyway. http://www.240z.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=458

Or at least move the Datsun emblem over to the right a little more. Looks like it's missing now.

Would you be able to make a modification to this for me? - Remove the 240z. Possibly add a fairlady logo instead. I want to get away from a 240z only emphasis on the site.

Hey, that ballet-dancing spider man avatar is excellent. I couldn't stop laughing.

I've got about $10,000 into mine and it's still a shell. Paint job was about $6,500 and many other things like powder-coating, sandblasting, struts, shocks, new parts everywhere, and just too damn much to list.

I wasn't able to make it to the races on Sunday.

Alan, does the forecast call for rain on Sunday? What sort of weather are you expecting?

Last night I had the opportunity to participate in a local Melbourne (Australia) Zcar club meeting. Their club is called "Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club, Inc." I was greeted with nothing but friendly faces who all wanted to know more about our Internet Club. And, I also notice that many of the members in the NDSOC have been here to visit. Welcome to the site!! Anyway, we had a great time at the meeting and I was actually asked to stand up and give a small presentation about the Classic Zcar Club. I was happy to do so. The meeting lasted from about 8pm to 11:30pm with much discussion in the middle. I actually found out that the club will be at a race track on a small island to the East of Melbourne. It's called Phillip Island Circuit. I am planning to attend the meet and hopefully be able to grab a few pictures along the way. So, stay in touch and check back for some great picts next week. After that, I should be attending a race they call "V8's at Winton"... this event is pretty popular in the area and includes many stock and modified V8 race cars. I will also bring some pictures of that event as well. So, anyway... keep checking back because we have some exciting things to share with you. And, please hold out a warm welcome to our new Auzzie members! -- Mike

I think you are doing things right. Those door seals are known to be too fat. We have been advising people to just buy the factory door seals for the main doors because they work better. In fact, I think door seals from a later model 280z will also work. Someone else should back me up on that.

There is an option to upload a compressed version of your pictures in bulk. But, I haven't played around with it yet. Do you want to help me test this feature? [m]

Stevie, There is a Zfest 2002 gallery. You can post pictures in there. In fact, I created that gallery a long time ago in anticipation of these great pictures. [m]

That's correct... it's a 468x60 (pretty typical) and the banners rotate through.

Want to do a banner like that for us?

Oh damn guys!! Those logos look pretty nice. One of my biggest challenges with a logo in the upper left of the site is matching the blue background color perfectly (use an RGB value to get it right) and the lack of square or CUT lines. For instance, a cut line would show half of a car rather than smoothing the lines to make it blend nicely. I like the samples you've provided!! Got any more? :classic:

Damn damn damn... I can't make the show. I am going to be out of town. Anyone want to take some pictures and upload them to the gallery? I'll make a Zfest category right now for it....

Back in the day, (can't believe I just said that) I took a few pictures of my rear suspension project. Removing the rear cross-member pins and bushings is the BIGGEST PAIN IN THE @#$ project ever attempted by a human. What did I end up doing? I removed the left pin easily... no big deal. The right side was a problem child. It didn't want to obey and come out of it's resting place of (oh) 30 years. It was seized. Many hours of pounding that pin (and contemplating if I should save the threads on the pin or not), I finally got it out. Pin was ruined. The stock bushings don't come out. In fact, there is an inner metal sleeve as well as an OUTER metal sleeve. What does that mean? The mount point and the outer sleeve are METAL TO METAL contact. No way these puppies will just slide out. So, I burned out the rubber..... NASTY NASTY NASTY. (I like the other version of NASTY much better) This is for the dogs and really doesn't get me goin. After burning out the nasty rubber.... I tried to insert my new polyurethane bushing. Nope, wouldn't fit with that old sleeve in there. How the HELL do I get it out? Chizel, screwdriver, lots of liquid wrench.... damnit. Nothing. Aha, I'll saw it out with a hacksaw. Bad bad idea.... the hacksaw wasn't perfectly parallel with the bushing. I cut into the bushing mount point!!! Crap. Do I really want to drive my Z with a possible weak spot? This, after all, is probably one of the most important structural points on the car. No way.... I went down and purchased new cross-bars with brand new bushings pre-installed and new pins. Point? Don't bother replacing these unless you have the right tools and a LOT of patience. Even if you do get the pin out easily, you still need to get the old bushings out. This can be dangerous to your health if you do it wrong. If your bushings are bad... just go get new cross-link bars and pins. They were around $100 each and the bushings were pre-installed. They aren't poly, but, they are a lot better than the old stock. Take my advice..... Now, if you have all the right tools and experience doing such a thing... go for it. :cross-eye

Hi guys, Any chance of a rally event around the Melbourne area late July early August? I'll be down there during that time and I'd love to get together for such an event. Likewise, even if there is no event, it would be fun to get together. [m]

Go for DATZUN.

Thanks Rolf!!

Chris, You could use a good valve adjustment. Good thing about a valve adjustment on a Z is that they are EASY. I used to adjust my valves once a month because I liked to do it... no ****. Yep. I used to love to hear that thing puuuurrr.. Anyway, do your first adjustment when the engine is dead cold. Then, take 'er out and warm up the engine (be sure to put the cover back on ). Come back and adjust them again. Not sure about the damage. 2mZ's used to race Zcars, so, he has had a lot of engine experience.

That is an AWESOME way to remember the order!! I'll have to remember that one. Thanks!

Hi all, Does anyone have an L28 near Oregon? I've ordered one from ATK Engines, but, I was just informed that it will be ANOTHER 6-weeks before they can provide one to me. I'm starting to look for options. I can probably have mine rebuild for 'around' the same price. But, I'm afraid that the engine might have some structural damage inside. I haven't pulled it apart yet, so, I don't know. Anyway, if someone has an L28 near Oregon (I can drive as far as Seattle and possibly N. California or Idaho). Or, if you want to give it to me (in other states), I could justify the cost to ship it here. I am willing to pay for it (if I can pick it up) just as long as I can be assured that it runs. I already have an engine I can rebuild and I don't want to do that if I don't have to. Thanks!!

Here are some of the paper options. I like the canvas idea. Paper (HP Bright White Inkjet, HP Coated, HP Heavyweight Coated and HP High-Gloss Photo) HP Studio Canvas, HP Banners with Tyvek, HP Colorfast Adhesive Vinyl, HP Matte Film, HP Clear Film, HP Natural Tracing Paper, HP Transluscent Bond (black only), HP Vellum

Glossy, yes. UV, not sure. I'll have to check the latest ink technology. Moisture, probably not. These posters will be created using a large format inkjet plotter. I will be able to get 36" wide glossy paper. And, I'm sure the ink and paper technologies have improved since I first started doing this because many companies use these plotters for poster work. I'm going to check into this. http://pandi.itrc.hp.com/busprod/summary/0,12558,series=24023^type=18972^category=64182,00.html?lsidebarLayId=106&rsidebarLayId=62

The bad tshirts? cafepress