Mike

Here's a picture from the parking lot. It was taken while all the women were inside the center holding their annual meeting.

Sorry, this car has been sold.

Sell the 350z.

Posted to the mailing list by Carl Beck: Hi Gang: In my earlier Post - I referred to a "#1, #2 and #3 car"... several people ask exactly what that meant. So I thought I'd Post this information again. "The Old Cars Price Guide" is just one of several value guides published in the Classic, Collectible and Special Interest market. The values given are just "guides".. not absolute values and they are based on data collected at public auctions and reported from speciality dealers as well as experts for the various marquees. The National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) also publishes price guides - their "Cars of Particular Interest" (CPI) book covers Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Automobiles. Automobile Dealers that belong to NADA fill out sales forms for every car they sell and report the sales data to NADA - who in turn publish the data in their value guides. At any point in time - any of these guides can be badly out of date for any particular marque. Usually the keep the most popular marquees (Ford, Chevy, Ferrari etc) pretty current because lots of them are bought/sold at the monthly auctions and because most of the people buying their price guides buy/sell those cars. For many years the values of Datsun 240-Z's lagged the market prices - within the last two years however the guides seem to have been catching up with the actual market (no doubt Nissan's Vintage Z Program helped in that regard). Below are the quality grade/ranking/evaluations - definitions. found in the Old Cars Price Guide - and I put the "values" from my earlier Post on this subject beside them in brackets. Also note that these value guides apply ONLY to Pure Stock/Original examples. Old Cars Price Guide says: #1 EXCELLENT ($16K to $18K) - Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95+ point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in #1 condition is likely to win top honors in it's class. In a sense it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown it is stored in a climate controlled facility. It is not driven. There are very few #1 cars. #2 FINE: ($12.5K to $14.5K) - Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. Except for the very closest of inspection a #2 vehicle may appear as a #1. The #2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off against a #1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800 - 1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours, and simply for pleasure. #3 - Very Good: ($7.5 to $8.5K) Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a 20 footer - that is, from 20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpet. The chrome trim while still quite presentable, may have lost the sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are #3's..... #4 Good: ($4.5K) - A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, the car is mostly usable "as is". This is a driver - It may be in the process of restoration or it owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.. #5 Restorable ($2.5K to $3.5K) - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won;t have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts. #6 Parts Car - May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts. == = = = = = = = = end OCPG quote = = = = = = = = = = Also keep in mind that these guides are written mostly for "Collectors" and "Restorers" so they judge cars very critically. If there is any question in your mind which category a car may fall into - it automatically falls into the next lower classification. Also keep in mind that supply and demand play a huge role in valuations - people will pay over the value guides as supplies dry up, if there are limited numbers of cars in their area of the country etc. Let's face it - the most expensive 240-Z's are still cheap relative to todays pricing on cars - so a grand or three one way or the other won't stop the world. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA IZCC #260 http://ZHome.com 69, 70, 71, 72, 72 & 73 BRE Z ------------------------------------ Internet 240z Club - http://www.240z.org To unsubscribe: http://www.240z.org/mailman/listinfo/list

Naw, there are two threads about this topic. This thread is from the poll itself. The other thread was in the news section. Sorry about the confusion. Here's the link to the other thread with more comments: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4231

So, do I assume that you can no longer purchase wiring harnesses from Nissan? That's one of my next steps in the restoration of my '71.

Gav, you hit the nail on the head! Do aussies really think of that slang the same way we think of our rednecks? There are a lot of really good redneck jokes, thou. [m]

I assume you're the one on the right? (I figured this becuase your signature image shows a guy with a black suit with a green stripe in the front)

Just don't ask an Aussie to say the word Mach. I still like the way we say it much better.... MAWK. I'm flying MAWK five in my 2-billion dollar jet. Aussies say MACK. Just doesn't sound impressive enough to me. There's a ton of different ways we pronounce the same words. I had a lot of fun for the 2-months I was in Aus. Not sure why, but, catching on to the dialect was very easy for me. I noticed that a lot of my slang was in use. Got a cool book called Aussie Slang when I was there. Should pull it out and start makin some shielas out of these mates.

What is it about these Australians? They always think THIER way is the correct way? Let's not forget that Australia was originally a place where convicts were sent after they were booted out.... I think you're still required to be a convict before you're allowed in the country. PS: I love everything about Australia. No worries, my opinions aren't much chop. Friggin Ockers... [m] Oh yea, I'm starting to say ZED more often now!

Courtesy of Carl Beck: About the R200 Differentials: The R200 has a 200mm ring gear hence the designation (likewise the R180 has a 180mm ring gear). Nissan used this same differential although modified over time, in the Z Cars from 1975 through 1996. However some changes made to them during that period were minor and others of a more major nature. The R200 of the first and second generation Z Cars (280Z/280ZX) were for the most part the same and are therefore interchangeable on a direct bolt in basis. The R200 of the third generation Z's (84-89 300ZX) are also basically the same, but do have major differences that must be addressed, prior to retro fitting them to the earlier generations of Z Cars. The side output shafts (stub axles) have to be swapped with those of an R200 from the first or second generation cars. What Is Different Among / Between The R200's ? Ring Gear Bolts: The 84 to 89 R200's used a ring gear bolted to the carrier with 12mm bolts vs. the 75-83 R200's which used 10mm bolts for that purpose. Thus the ring and pinion sets are not interchangeable between the two. Stub Axles with Bolt on Flanges, CV Joints and Driveshaft Flanges: Some of the R200's use stub axles (stub axles come out the side of the differential carrier) with bolt on flanges, which attach to the halfshafts (which Nissan calls driveshafts - side) that use universal joints. Some R200's use stub axles that are attached to CV Joints. You can pop the stub axles out of the differential carrier in each of these and swap them. About Swapping-out The R180 In The 240Z - For An R200 LSD From A 300ZX. You need the same mounting hardware described above. Plus you have to change the flanges and/or drive shaft input yoke. The R200's used in the 84-89 300ZX Turbo were equipped with Clutch Type Limited Slip Differential Units. These rear end's are set up to run with CV joints. So to install one in your 240Z you have to remove the CV joint type stub axle and replace it with the stub axles with flanges that will match the flanges on your half shafts (what Nissan calls a "drive shaft -side" - we usually refer to as "half shafts"). This is a pull out/snap in operation. The input flange is another story however. You either have to change your drive shaft yoke to match the input shaft on the differential, or you have to change the input shaft on the differential to match the yoke on your stock drive shaft. Most people suggest that this is a job for a professional rear end shop. Because the internal parts to the rear end have to be removed and then reinstalled. (not something you want to mess up on). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What Gear Ratio Is In This Differential? You do NOT have to count the teeth. Just turn the ring gear until you see two numbers separated by a slash ( / ) or colon ( : ). Simply divide the larger number by the smaller number and (tah dah!) you will have your final drive ratio. If you can't remove the rear cover - then you have to turn the wheels and count the driveshaft turns to determine the rear gear ratio. Use this method. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- R200 - 3.9 gear sets: FYI, THE 3.9 (R200 ONLY) RATIO WAS OEM IN THE 2+2 M/T (FROM 8/79) AND 2-SEATER M/T 'J' MODEL (FROM 8/79). YOU CAN VERIFY A 'J' MODEL BY LOOKING AT THE MODEL ID #. AFTER THE "S130" THERE WILL BE THE LETTER "J". THE 280ZX MODELS EQUIPPED WITH AN R180 DIFF HAD EITHER 3.364 OR 3.545 GEARING. See Rear End Ratio Chart -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Speedo Gears: 3.3?? : Yellow 3.545 : Black 3.7 : Blue 3.9 : White The following rear gear ratios were only available from Nissan Competition Dept. - not OE in any models sold in the US 4.11 : Red 4.375 : Purple?

You can't buy those rubber clamps anymore.

Hi all, 2ManyZs just had some tragic news about his mother. She is sick and in the hospital at this moment. Let's all take some time to send him our warmest regards. You can either send him a private message, email, or just reply to this message. Hang in there Keith, and we all hope your mom comes out of this with flying colors! -- Mike

I missed the picture!! Where did it go?

We also had some pretty large changes around the website lately. So, that could have been part of the delayed response.

This little tyke is a fun ride. But, I find that I have too many toys and some things have to go. I've spent a lot of money on this guy and it was a fun cruiser for a few summers. I do understand that I will be taking a loss on this purchase, so, if you want it... jump now. Short Blurb: - 1968 Datsun Roadster 2000 - Located in Albany, Oregon - Red - Mag wheels with new tires - Runs good. - Avid Datsun owner - 3rd owner - Lots of extra stuff - Selling to complete Zcar project - Many new parts installed - Everything actually works :-) --------------------------------------------------------------- Story: I bought this car from a guy who worked at our local Hewlett Packard plant. Due to a job-transfer, he had to relocate. He could not take the car with him. So, he made me a very good deal on the car. But, it needed some mechanical work. He let the car sit for about 2 years. It's not good to do that unless you prepare it right. (he didn't) So, I yanked the engine, replaced a lot of gaskets, bearings, and so-on. I then replaced parts (shown below) and gave it my TLC. It needed *ALL* new hydraulic parts and some electrical re-wiring. But, to make a long story short... I bought the car and used the rest of my "Z-Car restoration money" to get it in good mechanical condition. Well, now that the Roadster is working fine.... I find that I don't have much money left over. Thus, I need to sell it. Otherwise, I'll never finish my Zcar (which is currently sitting in my garage as a skeleton half painted). I've done a lot of work to this Roadster. It's a great little car and it's been fun to drive. It's in GREAT mechanical shape and the next owner will benefit from my labor. It will need to have the rear springs replaced, but, those are included. I haven't installed them yet. I bought the car at the beginning of July (1998). I worked on it for about a month. I've had it running back and forth to work since then. (It sure is fun to drive on the back roads here in Albany/Corvallis). I'd like to sell it so I can get enough money to finish my Z-Car project. But, if it doesn't sell... I won't be hurt. Anyway, if you're looking for a fun little car. This is the one to buy. Just keep in mind that you should be mechanically inclined and should not use this car as your daily driver. It's purely a fun toy. --------------------------------------------------------------- Features: - Soft top with great frame (needs new top) - Tonneau top w/middle zipper - New carpet - Engine compartment refurbished and painted - Engine worked over Body Condition: - Paint. The paint job is in great shape. It should be buffed out with 800 or 1000 grit wet-sand paper. The only minor-faded areas are on the hood and rear trunk. Over all, the paint is in decent condition. It polishes out very nice. It does have some cracks and flaking on the hood. - Rust. There is a little bit of rust behind each wheel well. I pulled out all of the carpet and scraped out all of the tar paper which revealed nice floor pans. The floor pans are in medium-nice condition. No rust in the trunk. There is a small hole in the passenger floorpan that should be fixed. - Latches, lights, electrical, etc. All of the lights work great. I replaced the fuse box because the old one went bad. The headlights both work and the turn signal blinker switch was replaced with an "extra loud" unit (I like to hear it). All of the exterior latches work great. The trunk locks, the doors work great (actually sound like a strong CLUNK (instead of rattling)), and the windows roll up and down just fine. - Tops. The vinyl black should be replaced. You can get a very nice canvas top for around $300. I think they even have glass rear windows available. The car even comes with a tonneau (sp?) top in good condition (black vinyl). Replaced Parts (all stock & new): - Water Pump - Coil - Distributor - Plug Wires & Plugs - Master Brake Cylinder - Master Clutch Cylinder - Slave Clutch Cylinder - Brake Flexible Hoses - Wheel Bearings - Front Disc Calipers - Rear Drum Calipers - Brake Pads (all around) - Metal Brake Tubing - Carpet Interior all new - Clock (not installed) - Clutch Disc - Pressure Plate - T/O Bearing - Pilot Bushing - Fuse Panel - SU Carbeurators (rebuilt) - Wheels (aftermarket by Ultra) - Tires (205/60VR-14) all new - Transmission 1st & 2nd Fork - Transmission - All gaskets new - Stickshift bushings and washers - Carpet all new - Momo Steering Wheel Extra Parts (not-installed): - Tach Guage - Speedometer Guage - Oil/Fuel/Temp Guage - Leaf Springs - Lots of misc electrical - Fan radiator shroud - Extra Dashboard - Heater vents - Heater controls - MANY MANY other misc parts that I can't seem to fathom at this time. Money: I spent $2,500 on this car at the end of May 1998. I then spent the next month and a half working her over. I spent another $2,700 (or more) bucks on new equipment (receipt detail available). I'd like to get $3,500. Will consider offers around $3,000. Check out the gallery pictures here: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=1373&thumb=1

Here's a pict. I also have more picts in my gallery: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3010&ppuser=4&thumb=1

Well, I've decided to sell my 280z project. I just don't have the time to do another engine and also finish my 240z project. So, she's got to go. This is a very nice 1975 280z 2+2. Interior is perfect and there is no rust on the car. There is a minor amount of surface rust on the surface of a few areas on the body, but, I can guarantee that none of it is deeper than the surface. The car doesn't have an engine. This car has less than 80,000 original miles on it and was given to me by a couple who wanted to retire to North Dakota. It sat for 15+ years in their garage and had typical 'sitters syndrome'... So, I spent around $500-$600 to get her running again. We got it started and everything was running smoothly. So, I put the car in the garage and was ready to start driving it. Next morning, I came out to start the engine and it had a loud banging noise. I suspect that a valve is sticking. So, we pulled the engine. Car needs: - Engine - Brakes - Braking hydraulics flushed First person to give me $800 for the car takes it. The wheels and tires pictured here are NOT part of the deal. I'm in Albany, Oregon. PS: I wish I could find the time to get this car running again because it's an excellent and very straight car.

Hi guys, sorry I didn't reply to this earlier. You can already delete your own posts. Check it out. Go open one of your old threads and you'll see that option.

What are your plans with the shell? Do you have any requirements such as rust-free or is it going to be a race-car? If you're going to use it as a ground-up restoration or as a start on your new rally car, let us know. There are many options......

Nice to see you ! We should all attach pictures of ourselves so we know who we're talking to! Way to set an example Jeremiah.

Hey man... those cars look great! Certainly look a lot better than my shells. Neither of my cars are operational.... I actually like the V8 modification. In fact, the original Scarab conversion (saw one at the Motorsport Show) is one of my favorites!!

Hi all, I've been working on some graphical THEMES for the website. Which one of these themes is your favorite? Please use the Theme Selector above and try each theme out. Tell us what you think!! Now, please don't just vote based on the appearance. Take these considerations in mind before you vote for your favorite: 1) Appearance - How does it appeal to your eyes. 2) Speed - Do you care about speed and load-times or is that trival to you? 3) General Use - Does the theme have the options that you want to see? 4) Navigation - Is the navigation structure something you like? 5) Layout - Does the layout (similar to navigation) work well with your 'surfing' style? 6) Tabs - Are tabs at the top of your screen important or do you like to use the menu at the left? Most of these themes are functional with only a few minor bugs. I don't plan to fix these until we've had a chance to vote on the best theme, so, please don't send bugs to me just yet. I also would like to know your thoughts about the themes. Comments are welcome. And remember, the basis of this poll will result in our new look! So, take your time and evaluate the themes............