Mike

Sunday February 17, 8:29 PM EST TOKYO, Feb 18 (Reuters) - Shares in Clarion Co Ltd (6796) roared ahead in Monday morning trade after Japan's leading car audio equipment maker said it received an order to supply 200,000 car navigation systems to Nissan Motor Co Ltd (7201). The deal is the first between the two firms in the booming car navigation market in Japan, which Clarion estimates will grow by 10 percent to two million units this year. Clarion shares shot up to a high of 108 yen, up 37 percent, before easing to 98 yen, up 24 percent, by mid-morning trade. With its DVD-equipped systems to be installed in three new Nissan models making their debut in the fiscal year starting in April, Clarion expects to grab around 10 percent of the domestic market. Clarion is owned 11.3 percent by Nissan and is its major supplier of car audio equipment. It expects the new deal to strengthen ties with the nation's third-largest automaker, a Clarion spokesman said. He estimated that a navigation system cost automakers a wholesale price of around 100,000 yen ($753) and that the deal would bring in around 20 billion yen in the next business year. The Nihon Keizai Shimbun daily reported over the weekend that Nissan selected Clarion's advanced telematics system -- which responds to voice commands -- in preference to equipment from a unit of Hitachi Ltd (6501), its primary supplier of car navigation systems. A Nissan spokesman declined to comment on details but said its relationship with the Hitachi group, which makes Nissan's GPS-installed systems, would not change. He also declined to comment on the report's information that Clarion's product would serve as the terminal for Nissan's voice-activated telematics system, Carwings, to be launched in March. By 0100 GMT, shares in Nissan were down 0.63 percent at 794 yen, while the broader market remained largely unchanged. ($1=132)

Sunday February 17, 6:48 PM EST TOKYO, Feb 18 (Reuters) - Japan's leading car audio equipment maker Clarion Co Ltd (6796) received an order to supply 200,000 car navigation systems to Nissan Motor Co Ltd (7201) for three new automobile models, the Nihon Keizai Shimbun daily said. Nissan, Japan's third-largest carmaker, will switch its car navigation supplier from a unit of Hitachi Ltd (6501) to Clarion, which already supplies Nissan with its car audio equipment, the newspaper reported on Sunday. Neither company was immediately available to comment. The new car models are to debut in the business year starting in April. Clarion's deal is estimated to account for around 10 percent of total domestic car navigation system sales, which are forecast to increase 10 percent from 2001 to around two million units this year, the paper said. Clarion, owned 11.3 percent by Nissan, will also make car navigation equipment to serve as terminals for Nissan's new information service Carwings, to be launched in March. The new system to be installed for Nissan's high-end models will play DVD videos, respond to voice commands and read out e-mail messages, the paper said.

Sunday February 17, 7:15 PM EST TOKYO, Feb 18 (Reuters) - Japan's leading car audio equipment maker Clarion Co Ltd (6796) said on Monday it received an order to supply 200,000 car navigation systems to Nissan Motor Co Ltd (7201) for three new automobile models. Clarion, which already supplies Nissan -- Japan's third-largest automaker -- with its car audio equipment, said its DVD-equipped car navigation systems will be installed in Nissan's new car models to debut in the business year starting in April. A Clarion spokesman estimated that a navigation system priced around 100,000 yen ($753) would translate into a deal raking in around 20 billion yen ($150 million) for its next business year. The system to be installed for Nissan's high-end models will play DVD videos, respond to voice commands and read out e-mail messages.

Kmack, That's a very good point! I never thought about the acid. Did you just use the muratic acid or did you use the system described with the Eastwood kit? I'm wondering if I should take a look at the inside of my tank after it has been sitting for a few years. I just assumed that it would be as shiny the day I cleaned it. Maybe the 'gastank treatment' takes care of the rust, but, I can't remember exactly when I put in the treatment (before or after the muratic acid). I'll have to look at the instructions again. I seem to remember an article in Zcar Magazine about how to restore a gastank. Anyone got that article? Would it be a copyright violation to scan it since that company no longer exists? [m] PS: I'll see what I can find on the gastank thing....

The 5-speed transmission swap is a very popular modification to the early Z's. The transmission should bolt right into place, but, there are a few things to note: - Use the throw-out bearing sleeve from the 5-speed. - You will need to modify your center console SLIGHTLY because the 5-speed shifter is closer to the engine. - You might need a shorter stick shift (unless you like the longer shifter). But, I'm not 100% sure about that one. Maybe someone else can back me up on this. - Driveshaft.... I don't know about this one. But, someone should be able to let us know if you can use your stock driveshaft or not.

So, here we have the metal wash, rust remover and the sealer. Again, after taking all of these steps, I decided NOT to pour in the sealer because it looked so pretty inside! I also heard that the sealer comes apart eventually over the years and can plug up your fuel system.

Muratic Acid, Acetone, and various tools for the job...

I refurbished my own gas tank. I even purchased the entire kit from Eastwood, but, decided against putting in the sealer. I purchased all of the other ingredients (acetone, etc), but, decided not to pour in the sealer at the last minute. Here are a few picts of the stuff as I did the work.... This is a shot of all my supplies and the tank. Notice the nicely powder-coated tank and the rubber gloves. Be careful when you take on a job like this!! Nasty, nasty, nasty chemicals....

I've also seen some pretty good information about Nissan Motors come through that news feed, too. It's a fairly interesting feature and easy to get used to having around...

Hey K, how did you get my life? I'm 31, but, I don't have the kid. The Z is a rolling shell and I've never driven it to a meeting what-so-ever. Bummer. I wish I had the time to put a lot more work into the Z. But, alas I bought a house that needs work. (I spent last weekend hanging drywall and doing a bit of electrical work) It's looking like I'll never get to finish the Z! But, maybe things will change as soon as I get that furnace working in the garage. It's just a bit too cold for my blood right now. I do have a couple motorcycles, a roadster, and another Z. And, my wife's buggin me to get rid of a few unnecessary toys. [m]

Good point and a good way of looking at it. Plastic body fillers act like a sponge once they dry/harden. Sheetmetal is porous and it is possible to wick moisture right through it - yes it takes some time... but it will happen unless the metal is sealed with a moisture proof barrier which prevents the body filler from drawing moisture. However I want to make clear (in case of any confusion) there is a huge difference between lacquer based primers, filling primers etc. - and an epoxy primer. The epoxy primer should more correctly be called an epoxy base coat. The epoxy applied to bare metal does seal out moisture and provides a moisture barrier between the bare metal and the plastic body fillers. You want the body fillers to dry - so you don't want to seal them up completely until they have had a chance to dry. That is why you put the sealing coat under them first - to prevent them from wicking moisture through the metal later and to allow them to dry out to the atmosphere. I completely agree with Wayne - you have to keep the car DRY until everything is done and sealed up. In effect, you want to seal any body fillers between an inner and outer layer of sealing paint or epoxy primer... but only after the filler had a chance to dry out completely to the atmosphere. It is common practice in collision shops to apply body fillers and paint the car the same day. You don't want this practice utilized on your Classic Car that you plan to keep for years. As Wayne mentions - quality shops will allow the body fillers to dry completely, then they will shoot a top coat of paint over the filler. That both seals the filler from moisture once it's dry - and it allows them to see any shrinkage, cracking or sanding marks in the filler after it's dried - but before painting. Lacquer based primers are intended to help "bound" the paint to the metal and to fill any micro scratches in the metal. They are not intended to prevent moisture from getting to the metal. They do not provide a moisture barrier as a matter of fact they are quite porous. There are several products on the market that go beyond epoxy primers or epoxy base coats in the area of protecting metal from moisture. POR-15 for example. However you can not get a glass smooth top coat finish over most of them. They are intended as sealers for the inside of the metal or as base coats for the under- carriage. (see http://www.por15.com). FWIW, Carl >At 9:03 PM -0800 2/9/2002, waynekarnes wrote: >what Carl said !!!! may i also add, all plastic fillers ( i.e. >bondo ect. ) will act as a sponge, wicking any moisture it can out of >the air ( especially a cool evening ). do not let yourself be fooled >into thinking, that you can spray primer over the bondo, or any metal >where the paint has been removed, and protect the metal from rust. >moisture goes right through primer and oxidation of the metal results >in rust. which if not removed, will cause your million dollar paint >job to bubble right off your car. in some cases, water goes through >the primer, through the plastic filler to the metal body, the body >rusts under the filler and, only the elastic properties of the final top >coat of color paint, holds the filler in place. this is why you will >often see a project car with different colors of paint sprayed here and >there. left over paint, sprayed over primer to seal it, and then used >as a guide coat when sanding. > if doing your own work, remember to keep the car dry and out of the >cool air, if you need to drive your car, before you can paint it, find >a way to seal it. if having a shop paint it, if it's only covered >with primer, ask them not to leave it outside at night, or in moist >air ( fog, rain, ect. ). > of course, there's a chance i might be wrong ... Carl ???? > >Carl Beck wrote: > >> Mr. Mack: >> According to every study done, that I've read, the following is the >> best approach. The US Army did extensive studies on corrosion >> control and Consumers Union did long term tests related to auto body >> repairs, rustproofing paints and the use of plastic body fillers. >> Over the past 40 years of restoring old cars, I've found their >> research to be spot on. >> >

Here's a message that Carl sent to the list about this: >At 8:48 AM -0600 2/9/2002, Kenneth Mack wrote: >I have my car stripped down to bare metal. And I'm getting ready to >start prepping for paint. > >I've heard that it's not good to put "bondo" on bare metal, but to >lay down a >sealer/primer first, then use the bondo. How correct is >this? Is so, then how do I prep >the surface of the primer so that >the bondo will adhere to it? Mr. Mack: According to every study done, that I've read, the following is the best approach. The US Army did extensive studies on corrosion control and Consumers Union did long term tests related to auto body repairs, rustproofing paints and the use of plastic body fillers. Over the past 40 years of restoring old cars, I've found their research to be spot on. Bare metal should be wiped down with something to prevent or stop "flash" rust. This is the rust that starts from humidity in the air the instant bare metal is exposed to the atmosphere. You can not see it at first with the human eye.. but it's there. Mostly usually a good quality self-etching epoxy primer, applied soon enough with stop and then prevent flash rust from getting a start on the metal. After a day or more of the metal being unprotected and exposed to the atmosphere even with relatively low humidity it should be wiped down with something to remove the flash rust and something that will prevent it reforming. Usually this is a weakened solution of phosphoric acid. I have used a product called OSPHO for many years with good results. Once the OSPHO has dried - I believe they recommend at least 24 hours - you can apply a coat of epoxy primer - depending on the brand and type of primer you may or many not have to add a metal etching compound. As far as possible, prime both sides of the metal. The epoxy primers provide a good moisture proofing seal over the bare metal. Then on top of the epoxy primer - you apply any plastic body fillers. Work the body filler to where you want it. Let it dry... the longer the better. For really top quality work we are talking weeks if not months - before final glazing and painting. All of the plastic body fillers shrink as they dry and harden. The metal should be worked so that the very thinnest coat of filler is all that is necessary. Why put plastic body fillers on top of a layer of epoxy primer? All plastic body fillers depend on a chemical reaction when they are exposed to air or when their parts are mixed, to harden. That chemical reaction generates heat (in the case of the epoxy based fillers) and/or it out-gases solvents as it drys (in the case of the pre-mixed fillers). While this is happening, it can and will actually draw moisture from the air through the metal. In that case you get rust under the filler and in a few years the filler breaks lose from the metal. Once the plastic body filler has dried, if the metal under it isn't sealed from the filler - the dry body filler will draw moisture from the air through the metal and the body filler itself well expand.. We've all seen body fillers bubble up under a good paint job - and this is why. All cars manufactured today and in the past 25 years have had plastic body fillers used to hid exterior metal seams. You very rarely see factory body fillers bubble up.. the reason is the factory seals them away from the bare metal to begin with. Consumers Union ran tests on about 25 different brands of plastic body fillers (including things like "Liquid Aluminum", "All Metal" etc etc)... they sealed half the test panels with a sealing primer and left the other half bare metal... then applied the plastic body fillers under both conditions to two different places. Then painted them both the same - then sat them outside to weather. Within two years every non sealed filler was either breaking lose from the metal or bubbling up under the paint. Don't let anyone tell you that the body filler they are using doesn't require any undercoat - that it itself will seal the metal - it just ain't so. Don't let anyone tell that the body filler they are using isn't "plastic" - they all are one type of plastic or another. They have to be, in order to be able to work them when they are soft and then have them harden when they dry. Of course the exception is melted lead;-)... Properly mixed and applied plastic body fillers will last 35 to 40 years without a problem. Improperly mixed and/or applied - like over bare metal - they well be a problem, usually within two years.. most definitely within five years. Depends on what other primers and paints are applied over them, if the metal is sealed on the opposite side or not etc.. Bodymen seem to always be in a hurry - they want to believe that it's OK to slap a plastic body filler on bare metal, get a coat of primer over it - and roll the car out the door. The salesmen that sell the plastic body fillers are quick the assure the bodymen that their product will allow this practice... The ignorant leading the blind.. Don't let them do it on your car if you are paying for and expecting top quality work. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA ------------------------------------ Internet 240z Club - http://240z.org

Anyone can have gold stars and the designation of supporting member. I'm putting that particular designation next to anyone who supports the club. I figured I support the club every month. So, I gave myself a few stars.

It's a little out of focus. Does that camera have a MACRO mode? Try that to get in closer than 3'.

Oh man, Kmack, I didn't do my own paint/bodywork. That was something I left to others. I *DO* know that you don't want to put bondo on bare metal. Make a trip down to your local automotive paint shop/store. They were very helpful with my project. And, after talking with them, I decided NOT to do my own work. (but, that's just me) Anyway, you'll want to wipe down the entire car with a bare metal prep of some kind. It's like a thinner. It removes fingerprint grease and other things that managed to get on the metal surface during the sanding process. But, I'm serious about talking to someone. Do you know of any auto paint stores around your area?

Bill, to give us a relative height of the car, how tall are you? And, are those 18" rims on 45 series tires?

Dan, use the attach file option underneath the message edit window to attach a file to the message... In fact it's directly under the Options.

of his new Z!!

pictures

HansEric sends us pictures of his ride from Norway! Hey. Iam from Norway, so my english is so and so. After ca. 30 years i have got my dream. A 1973 240 Z. It came from California to Sveden in 1988..totaly restored 88-91, and now before cristmas I vent down to Stockholm and get it . I am from Bodø in the north of Norway. So, it took me 26 hours with the train to Stockholm,to get the car, and 16 hours to drive it home. Do you want me as a member in your club ? greatings from Hans-Eric Hans will be signing up as a member of the site shortly.

See my signature line for my tire/wheel combination. But, asking a question like this can really be a hard one to answer. For example, when a skinny bigger wheel will fit a car, the wider bigger wheel might not fit at all. This is all due to the offset of the center mounting position. The 7" wide Panasport might fit. But, you'll have to ask someone that owns a set. Anyone? What sort of center-offset do the Panasports use? My wheels are fairly wide (about 9") and very deep, so, I had to stick to 15"...

Ya, I noticed that people are constantly missing each other in the chat room. I need to write something that shows who is in the chat room when you log-in. This will take a little time. But, in the meantime, just check the chatroom every now and then and see if there's anyone to talk to! Another idea, we can use the shoutbox feature to announce when you want to chat.... [m]

Here's a sample showing proper operation of the chat room.

Does the Chat Room work when you select it from the Main menu? If not, please tell us what sort of error you are getting by replying to this poll.

Do you like and would you use the Automotive news feed located in the bottom right side of our home page? It's packed full of up to date real-time information from the wire.