Mike

Ya, that whole @Home thing was screwed up. I thought AT&T started the @Home in the first place. I guess I wasn't around when Excite was the owner. Anyway, it was a hiccup for a lot of people. Pain in the arse. This site is located on a DSL circuit from a private provider. No problems what-so-ever.

How much do they charge for one of these engines? Shipping? And, do they have a website?

Hi all, Does anyone have a good source to set up checking accounts for car-clubs? I'm interested in finding a bank that won't require an assumed business name.

Yep, that looks pretty good. I imagine you decreased the compression ratio of your jpeg? The picture looks less blotchy (or lossy). JPEG compression is what they call "lossy"... This means that you lose image quality as you increase the compression ratio. Most JPEG compression works great at 25% or lower. Anything over 50% can get to be pretty bad.

It looks good!! Image size is much smaller and I'm sure people with slower internet connections will thank you. FYI: It looks like your JPEG compression is pretty high. Natively, JPEG compresses the image very well on a low-compression setting. You will notice little loss that way. But, your pict looks just fine. I'm just a techie and like to share info about stuff like that.

Yep, you can edit your own messages. Just click on the EDIT button on the bottom right of the message when you're viewing it. It will then ask you if you want to keep or re-upload a new image.

Alphadog, As a moderator, I think you can edit the message. You can save that image to your local hard drive, resize it, and then edit his message (inserting the smaller graphic). Some people don't know how to modify images like this and they will post the size directly from their camera. Anyway, it's worth a shot. I can do it if you don't have a program.

Ahh.. we thought maybe you ran over someone.

Matt, That's a good place to begin. I would also consider buying a Haynes, Nissan, and Chiltons Zcar manuals. They all cover for each other in one way or another. (warning aimless plug) Also don't forget the Zcar Microfiche CD. If you're gonna order parts or need diagrams to work from in your garage, this is a MUST HAVE. Just click HOME and select Microfiche CD from the main menu. You might want to make sure you also have a warm garage to work in with a good stereo.

You want to know the funny part... I don't think your car needs to meet emission standards anymore. It might be exempt from the law. Something changed last year (or early this year) in CA which lets a lot more Z owners rip off their emission equipment. You'll have to check with some of the Z owners to see if this is true for the 260z also. Or, at least find a link.

Here's a cool message posted to our mailing list by one of the members when I asked about rally racing: Mike, because there are so many different types, saying you're interested in rallying is almost as wide open as saying you're interested in racing. It ranges from a small group of enthusiasts on a poker hand tour to the madness of the WRC. I'll try to briefly sort out those found in North America. Terminology may differ in your area. For more info go to SCCA.org Gimmick rallies - usually pretty low key events, paved roads, relaxed speeds, easy navigation and non-critical timing. Often put on with a gimmick or theme. ie: Checkpoints at graveyards or apple orchards, maybe starting with a poker hand and drawing a new card at each checkpoint. or, answering a list of questions with the answers found along the route. No special equipment required. TSD Tour Rallies - (time-speed-distance) 2 -12 hours long, legal speeds, mostly paved roads, easy navigation, milaged route instructions, timing more critical, classes based on experience. no special equipment required but top finishers will be using computers with an integrated odometer. Many Vintage Rallies run under this format. I'm guessing this might be what you're looking for, or a good place to start. TSD Trap Rallies - 2 - 6 hours long, legal speeds, paved or paved and unpaved, navigation more difficult, route instructions like a puzzle, critical timing. lower classes sun SOP (seat of pants), upper classes run computers. (I personally get frustrated and lost on these, however my older brother is fanatic of these events.) Performance or Brisk TSDs - 3-12 hours long, brisk but legal speeds, paved and unpaved roads, easier navigation (sometimes with milaged tulip diagrams), most competitors run computers, some additional safety equipment may be required. these often run at night so additional lights could be handy. Rallycross - in North America this is an autocross on an unpaved surface, gravel pits and dirt speedways are popular places to hold these. In our local events all runs are scored and winners have the lowest total time. A spin or a bunch of pylons on one run can really put you out of the running. Think of those cones as trees! Classes are based on prep, drivewheels (2 or 4) and engine displacement. Like autocross, an sa 95 helmet is required. SCCA ClubRally - 4-8 hours legal speeds on transit sections, all-out speed on closed off stages, mostly unpaved, milaged tulip navigation. full safety prep (cages,harnesses, seats, suits etc.), beefed up suspensions, skid plates, classes based on prep, drivewheels (2 or 4) and engine displacement. Regional points championship. A 240Z should be real competitive in Group 2 if it's well prepared and driven. I did one of these in a rented SAAB and gained a great deal of respect for those drivers at the top. SCCA ProRally - 1-2 day events, The next step up, national pro series, 9 events, national points championship. Evos, WRXs and Team Libra Huyundai Tiburons rule supreme. SCCA is trying to make this a manufacturer showcase so, even though a 240Z is allowed in the rules, they'd rather see you in a more current ride. WRC - (World Rally Championship) not in North America yet, we should have one here in the next 2-5 years. When it gets here I'll be there to watch. This is the best of the best. Homolgation rules for the WRC will keep the new Z out as cars competing for manufacturers championship must be available as a 4-door. Mike (slow night at work) Winker IZCC 7308 Z Owners of Minnesota Comic/Ozzie Auto Sports Team '70 240Z RSR (Race Street Rally - wannabe) '93 Mitsubishi Diamante Wagon (Family Truckster Elegante')

Yes! Please post pics of this thing! I want to see the side pipes. I saw them only ONCE on a car at a local burger joint. Looked pretty good. I always wondered how a conversion like that would work-out on a Z. You know, by posting this message, you have volunteered to post pics. We won't let you sleep at night until there's at least two pics up here.

Alfadog, You're probably speaking about AU dollars, right?! Is the exchange rate still roughly 2 AU for 1 US? And, what's the market like down there? A lot of Aussie Zed owners?

What the heck is that sticking out of the front of the car?

So, what's up with the black hood? How did that become a color scheme for rally ? Did someone make this popular when they couldn't manage to finish painting their car before the race ? How did this fad start?

Great links! Thank you. It is surprising to see how well the Z can do in rally. Starting as an amateur could work very well with a Z. It's a cheap car, easy to work on, and is a great performer.

Ya, it seems to me that the Zcar might be too heavy for sufficient rally results. The little Toyotas, Hondas, and Peugeots will probably run circles around it. But, I don't know for sure... that's why I asked here.

Hiya Gus, Looks like you've figured out how to add a picture to your name field on the left side of the messages! Good job! If that's the Z you're talking about... yes, it does look like it's ready for rally.

Ya, I wouldn't run any kind of race w/out floorboards. That would be nuts. What if you slipped and your foot hit the ground? No way....:eek:

Here's a link to a video from Speedvision. It's about 18MB, so, better have a fast connection. I also paused it once it started playing to let the video load all the way. Anyway, awesome video compilation with music by Linkin Park. http://216.149.233.131/files/movie/wrc-high.wmv (looks like that link no longer works )

Anyone on this board into rally racing? I've been watching it on Speedvision a lot lately. I've always been into racing, but, this looks like it would be a lot more challenging than a standard race. I'm interested in it, where do I start looking and who do I talk to? I'm really interested in the Zcar aspect of it.

Well, your mistake was buying the extra strength bolts. Those aren't necessary on an aluminum head. The aluminum is a lot softer metal. And, you over-torqued the bolt. Take a look at a manual and try to find the right torque setting for that particular bolt. In fact, someone here might be able to help you out. Anyone got the torque setting for this application? As far as re-threading it, you should be in good shape with the aluminum head. Just make sure you get a good set of tools and take it slow. Also take care not to get metal shavings into your engine.

Is it safe to use teflon tape on your Z? I could see how it might not be safe on critical elements of the car. Sure, it works on plumbing, but, is it safe to use it on a flywheel bolt or something critical like that? A header might be a different story because it's not moving a hundred miles an hour. But, I'm just wondering about the safety of teflon tape used in these situations... Any ideas?

Cliff, When working on a Z, it's best to have at least 3 manuals lying around. I've had many situations where one manual conpensates for anothers lack of information. And, it's also a good way to verify that the information contained within the manual is correct. I seem to remember shearing a bolt because of an incorrect torque parameter. I consulted another manual and found out that my original setting was off .... Haynes, Chiltons, Nissan Shop Manual, and of course, the Zcar Microfiche CD!

, Wayne Burstein wrote (alot, but I'm addressing just one point): >I am wondering why you are going to coilovers in a street car. Racers >use them to be able to raise and lower the car, and particularly to set >corner weights. Setting corner weights lets each wheel do the maximum >work keeping the car hooked up in corners. The only reason I would see >for using coilovers in a street car is for someone who wants to change >ride heights -- possibly lowering the car for autocross or track >events. Well, there are a few more I can think of: 1) You want to put wider wheels and tires one, but not flare the fenders. By using coilovers, you can use more backspacing in the rear and put wider wheels on. In fact, you can put a 17x9 wheel on with 255/45-17 tires if you use just the right backspacing, 8 inch coilovers, etc. 2) You want to try different spring rates with a wide selection. Once the coilovers are one, you can swap in springs in rates that vary by 25 lb/in over a wide range. 3) One unforeseen benefit is that you no longer need a spring compressor to change springs, etc. Just lower the spring perch to unload the spring and disassembly can begin. 4) The prices for coilovers have come down. I paid a pretty penny to Carerra for mine, but you can get them cheaper at places like http://fonebooth.com . I see more and more people going to coilovers for reasons 1, 2, and 4 above. BTW, use the search function on HybridZ.org on this topic. There is alot of good info posted there on coilovers. Regards, - Pete Paraska <pparaska@home.com> <http://members.home.net/pparaska/> IZCC#15 73 240Z under marathon body restoration, V8 swap, suspension & brake mods Check out HybridZ.org for Datsun Z cars modifications, no holds barred! ------------------------------------ Internet 240z Club - http://240z.org