Mike

Jeff, I have also done this installation on my '71 240z because it was the only transmission available at the time. The truck and car transmissions (at the time) were very similar. This was a common swap. The truck transmission will give you lower gearing in 1-3, but the 4th gear ratio is 1-to-1 (same as the stock z transmission). I did notice, however, that my shifter was located closer to the dash. This required some modification to sheet metal around the shifter. It won't hurt a thing. However, you might want to see if you can get your hands on a 5-speed. Or, if you're doing a genuine restoration... you'll need to get a 4-speed. [m]

Thanks for the great feedback!!! We moderators like to hear it. [m]

Jon, You might want to try this. Use some carb cleaner and spray it near all of your hoses, fittings, and other various areas of concern. Do this while the engine is running. When you hit an area with a leak, you will notice that the engine will idle faster. I learned this trick from a neighbor while helping him work on the same problem. Sometimes the culprit can be a loose hose. Personally, I like to put hose clamps on the ends of my vacuum tubing. This helps eliminate any kind of slippage. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

http://www.4unique.com/battery/battery_products.htm

After all the work I've put into repairing the rusty area under the battery tray... I will *NEVER* replace a battery with the water/acid type again. The gel batteries are cool because they never leak and you can mount them in any direction. A few types are available. You've probably seen the Optima at various locations. Plan on spending at least $100. http://www.4unique.com/battery/battery_products.htm > -----Original Message----- > From: Chris Robson [mailto:robsonc@home.com] > Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 6:28 PM > To: JFShamus117@aol.com; 240z-club@peak.org > Subject: RE: <240z-club> electrical woes > > > -- Group Message from "Chris Robson" <robsonc@home.com> -- > > Well, My suggestion first is to pull the alternator, it may > be on the fritz, > and burning up the battery. Just take it to any auto parts > store, they > should be able to test it for free. Next if that checks > out, also check > all the battery connections, those may have a short somewhere, but my > feeling is that won't be the problem. The other thing to > check is the > voltage regulator, it is right next to the alternator and is > mounted on the > wheel well. I don't know how you would go about checking one > of these, > (maybe there is how-to out there). But that could also be > putting bad power > into the battery causing it to crack. > > As for batteries, maybe check out a solid battery as oppose > to a lead-acid. > They don't have acid in them, and only cost on average $20 > bucks more then a > good lead-acid. > > -- Chris > > '72 240 ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

This was posted in the Email list: -- Group Message from Carl Beck <cbeck@becksystems.com> -- At 6:28 PM -0700 5/27/2000, Chris Robson wrote: >Well, My suggestion first is to pull the alternator, it may be on the fritz, >and burning up the battery. Just take it to any auto parts store, they >should be able to test it for free. Next if that checks out, also check >all the battery connections, those may have a short somewhere, but my >feeling is that won't be the problem. The other thing to check is the >voltage regulator, it is right next to the alternator and is mounted on the >wheel well. I don't know how you would go about checking one of these, >(maybe there is how-to out there). But that could also be putting bad power >into the battery causing it to crack. Hi Jim / Chris (everyone): If you have a good mechanic - or if you have a good Automotive Battery Shop in your area - just take the car in and ask them to check the entire charging system. (with the right equipment it shouldn't take them more than a few minutes). They will check to see what the output is from the Alternator, then from the regulator, and what the battery is accepting. They will also put a load on the battery to see what it is putting out under load. At that point you should have a good idea of what and where the problem is. Sounds like you are over-charging the battery, if a new battery is outgasing/sulfating (sp?) ie. boiling over;-)... As has been mentioned before on this list - seems that whenever a battery goes bad - it takes the regulator with it - and overloads the Alternator.. So don't be supprised if you wind up replacing all three at the same time.. (or one right after the other).. BTW - yes you want to neutralize the acid by useing Baking Soda and water - but be sure to clean the Baking Soda with plenty of clear/clean water - remember that Baking Soda is salt... >As for batteries, maybe check out a solid battery as oppose to a lead-acid. >They don't have acid in them, and only cost on average $20 bucks more then a >good lead-acid. Chris - I've never heard of a "solid" battary. Can you give me some more information on this? (like Brand Name or Manufacture). I have had the Jell Filled Batteries, but they have a jell that contains the acid and holds it aginist the lead plates. Then too they seem to be alot more than $20.00 more than the standard Water/acid/lead type.. Last I looked they were running close to $95.00 to $115.00 where a standard battery was in the $45.00 to $55.00 range... good luck, Carl >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-240z-club@peak.org [maimailto:Owner-240z-club@peak.org]On >Behalf Of JFShamus117@aol.com >Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 5:11 PM >To: 240z-club@peak.org >Subject: <240z-club> electrical woes > > >-- Group Message from JFShamus117@aol.com -- > >Gentleman, > My first post so I hope I do this right > It seems one of us is always having electrical problems and now its >my turn.....I own a 5/71 prod. rust free, no mods, 240 with 46k. I was >driving home from a Z club picnic the other day when my voltmeter jumped >hard >to the right. The meter itself has been stable the three months that I have >owned the car. Lights dim a little when I stop at traffic lights but other >than that all electrical components are running including the annoying door >buzzer but with the exception of the clock (imagine that). All fuses look >good but couldn't help but notice the high pitched scream coming from the >engine bay when I accelerated. Amp gauge appeared to be normal at idle but >as soon as I got on it the above symptoms occurred. Left in the garage for >the week and decided to take a halfhearted look at it. I was ticked off to >find battery acid eating away at my paint. A friend suggested baking soda >to >neutralize the acid and a thorough cleaning. When I first picked up the car >I noticed a little battery acid leak and replaced it immediately, two months >later I have the same problem. The only other symptom the car produces now >is an intermittent signal noise when turn signal is used (the signal works >but the sound emanating from the flasher mechanism is variable. So tomorrow >I finally break down and purchase a multi-meter and learn how to use one >along with a mechanical voltage regulator. Might be nice considering I have >2z's (71,86T) a restoration project (series 1) and a parts car (73) Where do >I start???? Your help is appreciated and many thanks in advance... > Signed > Electrical Amateur Jim Field >

No, it won't harm anything to bypass the water flow to the carbs. However, they were put there to help warm the manifold. You may experience a decrease in responsiveness when they are cold. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Timberwolf, you're talking about a pretty standard conversion. There are kits available to do this. You will need a special manifold that connects to your intake ports on the block. I think someone has a 4-barrel conversion kit for sale in the FOR_SALE forum. Check that one out. You will need to modify linkage and a few other items to make it work correctly. But, when it's all connected I understand that it's a very reliable system. That's all I know. Someone else will more than likely respond to you - just give it a few days. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Sorry you took that wrong. I think HE was probably being sarcastic. We love to take questions about the Z and welcome anything you might have to ask. Moderator Mike ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Niiiiiice. But, hey. Yours is TITANIUM!! ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Nice story (very well put together)! Too bad about the car. I'm sure you'll come up with something to make her look great again. I'm happy to see that the Z was able to keep up with the Viper. Now, that's a hell of a story. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Looking for another project? I've got a fairly decent '68 Datsun 2000 Convertible that I've just sunk $3,500 into. I bought the Roadster for $2,500 and put this money into it. So, there's quite a bit of mechanical work that I've already done. Let me know if you're interested at all and I can go over what I've done. As a matter of fact, I put an ad in this forum with an outline. Click back and scroll down until you see it. Anyway, I'd be willing to trade. I also have a Zcar that I'm restoring and I'm craving to own another Z to drive until she's done. [m] [This message has been edited by Mike (edited 05-15-2000).]

Oh wow, that certainly *is* a problem! This sounds like a job for your Datsun mechanic. However, I would check a few things first: 1) Replace ALL of your fuses. 2) Check to make sure the pump is working by running a power lead from your battery to it. 3) Pull open the headlamp SWITCH assembly and lubricate it with WD-40. This will clean the electronics and verify that it's mechanically working. 4) Trace your wires and make sure that you don't have any exposed wiring touching each other. Your headlamp wiring might be crossing with the fuel-pump causing it to turn on. Let us know how it goes. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored. [This message has been edited by Mike (edited 05-02-2000).]

-- Group Message from RICHARD SCHULZE <richard@eoa.com> -- Dear Group: >-- Group Message from "Pete Paraska" <pparaska@tidalwave.net> -- >I don't have handy any numbers on what the amount or rate of >conversion of this heat is for different driving conditions, >but it's not inconsequential. Pete hit the nail on the head! The energy generation from shocks is not inconsequential. As a Mechanic, I always put a little oil in the strut housing when replacing inserts. Now I find that many Auto manufacturers are designing and making Hybrid cars that are gas and electric. They gain efficiency by recouping wasted energy. One of the prime waist sources is the cars kinetic energy which is converted into brake heat every time you stop. On the hybrids, when you hit the brake pedal, a generator is linked to the drive line which drags the car down while producing electricity to charge a battery pack. One of the biggest secondary sources of wasted energy is shock absorber dampening. The makers of Hybrids are designing shocks that are like linear motors which get their dampening from electro magnetic repulsion while generating electricity for the batteries. There is a significant amount of energy coming from these shock and good heat dissipation will extend seal life. Richard Schulze -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

> How about every-day drivers? Or, weekend excursions along > the coastal highways? If I can't heat these things up at an autox or a track like Buttonwillow then I don't think a street driver can do it, unless they are driving fast over the pot-holed roads of Detroit. You would need a lot of low frequency, large travel or high frequency, short travel inputs to start generating heat. You really aren't much of that on the street unless the road are really bumpy. Also, have you driven Pacific Coast Highway lately? You'll spend most of your time going < 25mph behind a Mini-Winnie watching two brats smear food on the back window while Dad drifts into oncoming traffic at each corner. Now, I WOULD put some oil in there to avoid the corrosion issues mentioned in a previous post. ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

-- Group Message from Rob Harville <RobH@Insynq.com> -- I would think shock overheating would be much more of an issue in off-road racing like the Baja series. They have MUCH more suspension travel and at high speeds. The tire heating isn't as much of an issue because of the loose "track" surface. This is why they run remote-reservoir shocks with a very high oil capacity w/ coolers on the reservoirs. I've never heard of this being an issue with NASCAR, CART or INDY. Even with autox, there just isn't enough constant full-travel articulation.

> Any racers here want to chime in? OK, chiming in... > I wouldn't bet that air alone > is enough to convect the heat away quick enough from the strut > cartridge body to the strut tube during spirited driving. The > amount of connection between the strut tube and cartridge is > minimal for conduction heat transfer. FYI... my Tokico Illuminas are in the struts dry. Purely a maintenance, cleanliness issue. Shocks heating up and loosing effectiveness is not really an issue in autox because you have time between runs for everything to cool down. Tire overheating will occur way before you have any issues with the shocks. At the MSA autox last Saturday I did 6 back-to-back 46 second runs and greasy tires ended my fun, not the shocks getting hot. Also, I've run 20 and 30 minute track sessions at Buttonwillow and WSR and hot shocks were never a concern. But, Peter is right from a theoretical point of view and if I was building a rally 240Z I would definately do everything I could to cool the shocks. ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

-- Group Message from "Pete Paraska" <pparaska@tidalwave.net> -- Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> wrote: >Is this really a concern if you purchase a high-end strut >cartridge? I figure that their engineering methods would >lessen this possiblity. Strut cartridges and shocks convert mechanical energy to heat. The amount of heat generated is proportional to the damping. Damping is the mechanical energy involved and has to do with the force (related to the Illumina's setting), velocity and translation of the two ends of the "damper". I don't have handy any numbers on what the amount or rate of conversion of this heat is for different driving conditions, but it's not inconsequential. I wouldn't bet that air alone is enough to convect the heat away quick enough from the strut cartridge body to the strut tube during spirited driving. The amount of connection between the strut tube and cartridge is minimal for conduction heat transfer. Any racers here want to chime in? -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Dampening oil added to strut housing between cartridge and housing: I recently had to change the shocks in my Z, and the previous owner had changed the shocks about 3-5 years before, and he had not put any oil in the shaft the strut cartridge had gone in. The Cartridge over time had fused to the strut most likely do to excessive heat, and a lack of lubrication. As a result, this made this out to be a very unpleasant experience for me after being in there for a while the cartridge was stuck in the shaft to where it was VERY VERY difficult to come out. In fact one of the four never came out.. even after the strut had been heated with a torch (which was necessary on the others to remove them) it never came out... I was really stuck because the original strut was now damaged in trying to remove this cartridge, and where was I going to get another one when I was getting this work done with a friend, out of town, on the weekend?? I sooooooo lucked out that the Nissan dealer had an original brand new strut tower that you could no longer order sitting on the shelf because it was ordered 5 years before, and was never picked up. This was the original style with a non cartridge style shock already in it, but since I was using the same Tokico shock on the other 4, just a cartridge version it didn't matter.. I can just put in a cartridge style in there next time it needs to be changed. In short.. I really recommend lubeing the strut cartridges >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< On 5/1/00, 6:31:15 PM, Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> wrote regarding RE: <240z-club> Rear Struts: > -- Group Message from Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> -- > It is my understanding that you shouldn't need to add any > oil with MODERN strut cartridges. > The manual recommends it because the older struts depended > on the oil for heat dissipation and lubrication of the shaft. > Again, this is MY understanding. I could be totally off. > But, I didn't add any oil to my new Tokico Illumina's because > of this advice. > [m] > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Panos A. Rontos [maimailto:Prontos@gte.net] > > Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 11:02 AM > > To: 240z internet club > > Subject: <240z-club> Rear Struts > > > > > > -- Group Message from "Panos A. Rontos" <prontos@gte.net> -- > > > > I know that this has been covered; however, my computer has > > gone through at > > least one rebuild since then and I have lost the message. The Datsun > > service manual states I should pour 400cc of geniune Nissan > > strut oil or > > equalivant into the case for cooling. Any suggestions as to > > what to use? > --------------------------------------------------------------

-- Group Message from Carl Beck <cbeck@becksystems.com> -- >>anyone out there know how to install e12-80 distributer to stock 71 240 with >>stock wirering and stock coil thanx duane k. 4/25/2000, craig001@mc.duke.edu wrote: >Is this the one with the EI module bolted to the side of the distributor? >I did >this to my 73 240 with the dist. out of an 83 ZX. Hi Guys (everyone): An additional comment for thoes following this thread... The EI module should be mounted on a heat sink - on the inner-fenderwell. It's original position on the side of the distributor was not a good one - too much heat there. (mounted on the distributor and right above the exhaust manifold). Heat shortens the duty life of the EI Module - and the Nissan EI Modules are expensive. It can be swapped out with the GM (two prong) units which are far less expensive and can be purchased just about anywhere. There are a couple of write-up's on the Z Car Home Page related to this subject - it would make sense to me, to do the complete change over while your at it ie. : - add the 280Z or ZX distributor - replace the Nissan EI Module with the GM Module - replace the Coil with a Coil suited for EI ignition - mount the EI Module on the innerfender where it stays cool >.....{snipped..cjb}.... >I also shorted the ballast resistor but it didn't >seem to make a difference whether or not I did this. It would not make any difference as far as starting the car - no keeping it running. It could make a difference over the long run however, as far as ignition component live goes. Maybe someone with the knowledge would be kind enought to explain why. FWIW, Carl -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

-- Group Message from RICHARD SCHULZE <richard@eoa.com> -- Dear Kelly: Solenoids rarely go bad except on Fords where the solenoid is not part of a starter assembly. I have seen solenoids frequently mis-diagnosed. In the case of Chevy starters, bad brushes disrupt the ground for the solenoid hence the age old cure of hammering on the starter. The vibration from hammering sometimes makes the brush contact better (at least for a few times) and then the car will start. You should also know that in the case of the $ 60 starter vs the $ 50 solenoid, a $ 50 solenoid is not used to make a $ 60 starter. In Fact a $ 60 starter is about 90% old parts most of which have only been cleaned and painted. The parts that are usually replaced are the bushings, brushes, and the solenoid. The brush contact area on the armature is usually refaced (lathed down until smooth). This is all true unless you are foolish enough to buy a starter from Auto Zone. They buy their starters from Mexico for about $5 apiece and I have seen them with old brushes, old bushings, old solenoids and un finished armatures. The Zone will give you a lifetime warranty on your starter, which you will need for the weekly failures. Buy a starter from a local rebuilder even if it costs a few more bucks! Good Luck. Richard Schulze -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Eric Chapman made a conversion kit for the early Zcar for disc brakes. I researched this heavily and was able to talk with him on the phone. The following are notes from a conversation that I had with him. Questions for Eric Chapman’s Rear Disc Setup: What is included in the kit? 2 brackets and bolts that hold calipers to bracket What else will I need to purchase? 280zx – 79 thru 81 calipers, rotors, & master cylinder (240z not compatible but, not strong enough) What year discs to use? See above How do they fit? Over the existing spindle? Bolt right on spindle. Take drum brake cover off. His bracket bolts on to brake cover 4-bolt pattern. Use lock-tite. Remount spindle. Will my existing system remain unharmed and unmodified? yea What calipers to buy? Year? Nissan wants $350/ea Get ‘em from junkyard. Try to find some that are good looking shape. Minimal rust. Look at dust seal. If it’s good, get it. If it’s leaking, don’t do it. Toyota 4-piston calipers? Too much brake for the rear. Not compatible. It will make your rear-end lock up. How does the emergency brake connect? Connects up just fine. Flip cables at junction to shorten them. Doesn’t affect operation. Do I have to modify master cylinder? No, get 280zx unit Nopi auto parts (turbo mag) huge import place 800-277-6674 Tell ‘em z-car club Do I have to modify hydraulic braking system at all? Remove the pressure switch under the master cylinder. Any modifications by me such as welding or sawing required? no Do you have any recommendations for part manufacturers? Wheel bearings Buy stock SKF are good too NSK are very very good… add more balls to bearing. Brake pads Call Nopi Lucas Gurling (maybe called Axis now) I decided to remain stock. If you have a lot of cash and time this might be a good conversion. But, I didn't want to mess with my master cylinder or deal with braking issues. Of course, I did a whole new restoration, so I wanted to put my money in other places. [m]

While I ended up purchasing these shocks, I found this information on my computer. It was put together while I was doing research about shocks. -------- Tokico Illumina Shocks: ----------------------- Looks like most current owners of Tokico Illumina's keep them set on one position most of the time. It doesn't seem to me that these are the kind of things you'll be adjusting often. Disadvantages: 1- Convenience. Don't expect to switch the suspension on the fly. I don't think you'll be able to say, "Oh, hey... look! There's a corner. Let me adjust my shocks." (faint sound of a car screeching to a halt, a door slamming, and the cussing of some guy trying to adjust his shocks on the side of the 2-lane coast highway) - Probably won't happen. 2- Price. These things are spendy. Average price is $50 more than a "nice" performance shock. They usually run anywhere from $110/ea to $150/ea. Average performance shocks (non-adjustables) will run anywhere from $70 to $90 (or so). 3- Stiffness. Sounds like these shocks are pretty stiff even on their lowest setting. Again, these are my findings and not my facts. I have not purchased shocks yet. 4- Comparisons. It's tough to compare these shocks to other shocks because suspension performance isn't JUST in the shocks. Advantages: 1 - Flexibility. I'll be able to get the performance of at least three different responses (yes, they are 5-way adjustables). Therefore, since one can't go out and buy all the shocks that they want. It might be safest to buy the adjustables and pick a setting. If you buy one shock. You're stuck. 2- Adjustable. They are adjustable. So, if you're going to take a fun ride, pull the car into the garage, and tweak 'em up to full strength. Then go out and have fun! 3- Price. It's a lot cheaper to buy one set instead of 2-3 sets of other shocks that don't quite do it for you. 4- Comparisons. I also have this in my advantage list because IMHO it's a lot safer to buy an adjustable shock and know that you got the best. Your other route is to buy the non-adjustable and HOPE that it's what you want. At least you have a way to "tune" the adjustable shock to what you like. Conclusion: Buy the adjustable if you have the $$. If you want to save money then buy a Tokico non-adjustable. I understand that the non-adjustable Tokico is about midway between soft and hard on the adjustable. Again, this is not from experience. Just hearsay - I've talked to a lot of people about shocks. If you don't have the cash. You'll have to check into a comparison done between different non-adjustable brands. This comparison is to clear up "MY" findings between adjustable and non-adjustable while considering price/performance/and so on. Keep in mind that adjustables might be too firm. They are made for performance. If you want a smooth ride and good performance, look into replacing the bushings and/or springs. [m]

So, you want to put a rocket on your Zcar, eh? Check out this link first: http://www.wagoneers.com/pages/RocketCar/rockit.html

-- Group Message from craig001@mc.duke.edu -- Hey All, A thread on zcar.com has been started concerning the rubber window squeegee and the fact that you have to buy the whole chrome trim assembly when the rubber deteriorates. Kinda pricey. Anyway, somebody there located a potential manufacturer, Steele Rubber, and suggested we all email the company and see if we can get them to make a replacement rubber piece. Here is my email: Dear Steele Rubber, Your company has been discussed on an internet forum for Datsun Z-car enthusiasts as a possible source for OEM-style replacement rubber, specifically, the window squeegee on the 70 - 78 240, 260 and 280Zs. This is an extruded rubber wiper/"fuzzy" that is stapled to the inside of the chrome trim at the outer top edge of the door and serves the purpose of keeping rain out of the door and wiping the window. At this time there is no source for this rubber piece, forcing the Z owner to purchase the whole trim assembly, at a cost of approximately $75 per side. With the same part interchanging between all 70 through 78 Z cars and the youngest of these original parts being 22 years old, you can see that there are hundreds of thousands of potential customers for this part. The Datsun Z is being recognized by more and more people as a true classic and collectable auto and the restoration of these cars is a growing industry. There are Z clubs worldwide and the Z has a tremendous internet presence. The web site: http://www.zhome.com http://www.240z.org is a good place to gather information. I hope you agree that this would be a good market for your company to penetrate. In addition to the window squeegee, the other rubber parts of these cars (as well as its cousins, the 280ZX and 300 ZX) are ill-served by the aftermarket industry. OEM examples of these parts are available to assure exacting reproduction. A top quality automotive rubber manufacturer would find a large number of eager customers. *END OF SUCK-UP EMAIL* I think this is a good idea (even though I don't know anything about Steele Rubber) and wanted to pass this along and urge everyone to email them. The address is: gsteele@steelerubber.com You don't have to blab on like I did, just tell them "If you make it, I will buy". What do you all think? Maybe one of those eloquently worded essays from our Fearless President Carl would win the day! Damian 71 240 with crumbling squeegees. -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------