Mike

> Any racers here want to chime in? OK, chiming in... > I wouldn't bet that air alone > is enough to convect the heat away quick enough from the strut > cartridge body to the strut tube during spirited driving. The > amount of connection between the strut tube and cartridge is > minimal for conduction heat transfer. FYI... my Tokico Illuminas are in the struts dry. Purely a maintenance, cleanliness issue. Shocks heating up and loosing effectiveness is not really an issue in autox because you have time between runs for everything to cool down. Tire overheating will occur way before you have any issues with the shocks. At the MSA autox last Saturday I did 6 back-to-back 46 second runs and greasy tires ended my fun, not the shocks getting hot. Also, I've run 20 and 30 minute track sessions at Buttonwillow and WSR and hot shocks were never a concern. But, Peter is right from a theoretical point of view and if I was building a rally 240Z I would definately do everything I could to cool the shocks. ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

-- Group Message from "Pete Paraska" <pparaska@tidalwave.net> -- Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> wrote: >Is this really a concern if you purchase a high-end strut >cartridge? I figure that their engineering methods would >lessen this possiblity. Strut cartridges and shocks convert mechanical energy to heat. The amount of heat generated is proportional to the damping. Damping is the mechanical energy involved and has to do with the force (related to the Illumina's setting), velocity and translation of the two ends of the "damper". I don't have handy any numbers on what the amount or rate of conversion of this heat is for different driving conditions, but it's not inconsequential. I wouldn't bet that air alone is enough to convect the heat away quick enough from the strut cartridge body to the strut tube during spirited driving. The amount of connection between the strut tube and cartridge is minimal for conduction heat transfer. Any racers here want to chime in? -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Dampening oil added to strut housing between cartridge and housing: I recently had to change the shocks in my Z, and the previous owner had changed the shocks about 3-5 years before, and he had not put any oil in the shaft the strut cartridge had gone in. The Cartridge over time had fused to the strut most likely do to excessive heat, and a lack of lubrication. As a result, this made this out to be a very unpleasant experience for me after being in there for a while the cartridge was stuck in the shaft to where it was VERY VERY difficult to come out. In fact one of the four never came out.. even after the strut had been heated with a torch (which was necessary on the others to remove them) it never came out... I was really stuck because the original strut was now damaged in trying to remove this cartridge, and where was I going to get another one when I was getting this work done with a friend, out of town, on the weekend?? I sooooooo lucked out that the Nissan dealer had an original brand new strut tower that you could no longer order sitting on the shelf because it was ordered 5 years before, and was never picked up. This was the original style with a non cartridge style shock already in it, but since I was using the same Tokico shock on the other 4, just a cartridge version it didn't matter.. I can just put in a cartridge style in there next time it needs to be changed. In short.. I really recommend lubeing the strut cartridges >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< On 5/1/00, 6:31:15 PM, Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> wrote regarding RE: <240z-club> Rear Struts: > -- Group Message from Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> -- > It is my understanding that you shouldn't need to add any > oil with MODERN strut cartridges. > The manual recommends it because the older struts depended > on the oil for heat dissipation and lubrication of the shaft. > Again, this is MY understanding. I could be totally off. > But, I didn't add any oil to my new Tokico Illumina's because > of this advice. > [m] > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Panos A. Rontos [maimailto:Prontos@gte.net] > > Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 11:02 AM > > To: 240z internet club > > Subject: <240z-club> Rear Struts > > > > > > -- Group Message from "Panos A. Rontos" <prontos@gte.net> -- > > > > I know that this has been covered; however, my computer has > > gone through at > > least one rebuild since then and I have lost the message. The Datsun > > service manual states I should pour 400cc of geniune Nissan > > strut oil or > > equalivant into the case for cooling. Any suggestions as to > > what to use? > --------------------------------------------------------------

-- Group Message from Carl Beck <cbeck@becksystems.com> -- >>anyone out there know how to install e12-80 distributer to stock 71 240 with >>stock wirering and stock coil thanx duane k. 4/25/2000, craig001@mc.duke.edu wrote: >Is this the one with the EI module bolted to the side of the distributor? >I did >this to my 73 240 with the dist. out of an 83 ZX. Hi Guys (everyone): An additional comment for thoes following this thread... The EI module should be mounted on a heat sink - on the inner-fenderwell. It's original position on the side of the distributor was not a good one - too much heat there. (mounted on the distributor and right above the exhaust manifold). Heat shortens the duty life of the EI Module - and the Nissan EI Modules are expensive. It can be swapped out with the GM (two prong) units which are far less expensive and can be purchased just about anywhere. There are a couple of write-up's on the Z Car Home Page related to this subject - it would make sense to me, to do the complete change over while your at it ie. : - add the 280Z or ZX distributor - replace the Nissan EI Module with the GM Module - replace the Coil with a Coil suited for EI ignition - mount the EI Module on the innerfender where it stays cool >.....{snipped..cjb}.... >I also shorted the ballast resistor but it didn't >seem to make a difference whether or not I did this. It would not make any difference as far as starting the car - no keeping it running. It could make a difference over the long run however, as far as ignition component live goes. Maybe someone with the knowledge would be kind enought to explain why. FWIW, Carl -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

-- Group Message from RICHARD SCHULZE <richard@eoa.com> -- Dear Kelly: Solenoids rarely go bad except on Fords where the solenoid is not part of a starter assembly. I have seen solenoids frequently mis-diagnosed. In the case of Chevy starters, bad brushes disrupt the ground for the solenoid hence the age old cure of hammering on the starter. The vibration from hammering sometimes makes the brush contact better (at least for a few times) and then the car will start. You should also know that in the case of the $ 60 starter vs the $ 50 solenoid, a $ 50 solenoid is not used to make a $ 60 starter. In Fact a $ 60 starter is about 90% old parts most of which have only been cleaned and painted. The parts that are usually replaced are the bushings, brushes, and the solenoid. The brush contact area on the armature is usually refaced (lathed down until smooth). This is all true unless you are foolish enough to buy a starter from Auto Zone. They buy their starters from Mexico for about $5 apiece and I have seen them with old brushes, old bushings, old solenoids and un finished armatures. The Zone will give you a lifetime warranty on your starter, which you will need for the weekly failures. Buy a starter from a local rebuilder even if it costs a few more bucks! Good Luck. Richard Schulze -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Eric Chapman made a conversion kit for the early Zcar for disc brakes. I researched this heavily and was able to talk with him on the phone. The following are notes from a conversation that I had with him. Questions for Eric Chapman’s Rear Disc Setup: What is included in the kit? 2 brackets and bolts that hold calipers to bracket What else will I need to purchase? 280zx – 79 thru 81 calipers, rotors, & master cylinder (240z not compatible but, not strong enough) What year discs to use? See above How do they fit? Over the existing spindle? Bolt right on spindle. Take drum brake cover off. His bracket bolts on to brake cover 4-bolt pattern. Use lock-tite. Remount spindle. Will my existing system remain unharmed and unmodified? yea What calipers to buy? Year? Nissan wants $350/ea Get ‘em from junkyard. Try to find some that are good looking shape. Minimal rust. Look at dust seal. If it’s good, get it. If it’s leaking, don’t do it. Toyota 4-piston calipers? Too much brake for the rear. Not compatible. It will make your rear-end lock up. How does the emergency brake connect? Connects up just fine. Flip cables at junction to shorten them. Doesn’t affect operation. Do I have to modify master cylinder? No, get 280zx unit Nopi auto parts (turbo mag) huge import place 800-277-6674 Tell ‘em z-car club Do I have to modify hydraulic braking system at all? Remove the pressure switch under the master cylinder. Any modifications by me such as welding or sawing required? no Do you have any recommendations for part manufacturers? Wheel bearings Buy stock SKF are good too NSK are very very good… add more balls to bearing. Brake pads Call Nopi Lucas Gurling (maybe called Axis now) I decided to remain stock. If you have a lot of cash and time this might be a good conversion. But, I didn't want to mess with my master cylinder or deal with braking issues. Of course, I did a whole new restoration, so I wanted to put my money in other places. [m]

While I ended up purchasing these shocks, I found this information on my computer. It was put together while I was doing research about shocks. -------- Tokico Illumina Shocks: ----------------------- Looks like most current owners of Tokico Illumina's keep them set on one position most of the time. It doesn't seem to me that these are the kind of things you'll be adjusting often. Disadvantages: 1- Convenience. Don't expect to switch the suspension on the fly. I don't think you'll be able to say, "Oh, hey... look! There's a corner. Let me adjust my shocks." (faint sound of a car screeching to a halt, a door slamming, and the cussing of some guy trying to adjust his shocks on the side of the 2-lane coast highway) - Probably won't happen. 2- Price. These things are spendy. Average price is $50 more than a "nice" performance shock. They usually run anywhere from $110/ea to $150/ea. Average performance shocks (non-adjustables) will run anywhere from $70 to $90 (or so). 3- Stiffness. Sounds like these shocks are pretty stiff even on their lowest setting. Again, these are my findings and not my facts. I have not purchased shocks yet. 4- Comparisons. It's tough to compare these shocks to other shocks because suspension performance isn't JUST in the shocks. Advantages: 1 - Flexibility. I'll be able to get the performance of at least three different responses (yes, they are 5-way adjustables). Therefore, since one can't go out and buy all the shocks that they want. It might be safest to buy the adjustables and pick a setting. If you buy one shock. You're stuck. 2- Adjustable. They are adjustable. So, if you're going to take a fun ride, pull the car into the garage, and tweak 'em up to full strength. Then go out and have fun! 3- Price. It's a lot cheaper to buy one set instead of 2-3 sets of other shocks that don't quite do it for you. 4- Comparisons. I also have this in my advantage list because IMHO it's a lot safer to buy an adjustable shock and know that you got the best. Your other route is to buy the non-adjustable and HOPE that it's what you want. At least you have a way to "tune" the adjustable shock to what you like. Conclusion: Buy the adjustable if you have the $$. If you want to save money then buy a Tokico non-adjustable. I understand that the non-adjustable Tokico is about midway between soft and hard on the adjustable. Again, this is not from experience. Just hearsay - I've talked to a lot of people about shocks. If you don't have the cash. You'll have to check into a comparison done between different non-adjustable brands. This comparison is to clear up "MY" findings between adjustable and non-adjustable while considering price/performance/and so on. Keep in mind that adjustables might be too firm. They are made for performance. If you want a smooth ride and good performance, look into replacing the bushings and/or springs. [m]

So, you want to put a rocket on your Zcar, eh? Check out this link first: http://www.wagoneers.com/pages/RocketCar/rockit.html

-- Group Message from craig001@mc.duke.edu -- Hey All, A thread on zcar.com has been started concerning the rubber window squeegee and the fact that you have to buy the whole chrome trim assembly when the rubber deteriorates. Kinda pricey. Anyway, somebody there located a potential manufacturer, Steele Rubber, and suggested we all email the company and see if we can get them to make a replacement rubber piece. Here is my email: Dear Steele Rubber, Your company has been discussed on an internet forum for Datsun Z-car enthusiasts as a possible source for OEM-style replacement rubber, specifically, the window squeegee on the 70 - 78 240, 260 and 280Zs. This is an extruded rubber wiper/"fuzzy" that is stapled to the inside of the chrome trim at the outer top edge of the door and serves the purpose of keeping rain out of the door and wiping the window. At this time there is no source for this rubber piece, forcing the Z owner to purchase the whole trim assembly, at a cost of approximately $75 per side. With the same part interchanging between all 70 through 78 Z cars and the youngest of these original parts being 22 years old, you can see that there are hundreds of thousands of potential customers for this part. The Datsun Z is being recognized by more and more people as a true classic and collectable auto and the restoration of these cars is a growing industry. There are Z clubs worldwide and the Z has a tremendous internet presence. The web site: http://www.zhome.com http://www.240z.org is a good place to gather information. I hope you agree that this would be a good market for your company to penetrate. In addition to the window squeegee, the other rubber parts of these cars (as well as its cousins, the 280ZX and 300 ZX) are ill-served by the aftermarket industry. OEM examples of these parts are available to assure exacting reproduction. A top quality automotive rubber manufacturer would find a large number of eager customers. *END OF SUCK-UP EMAIL* I think this is a good idea (even though I don't know anything about Steele Rubber) and wanted to pass this along and urge everyone to email them. The address is: gsteele@steelerubber.com You don't have to blab on like I did, just tell them "If you make it, I will buy". What do you all think? Maybe one of those eloquently worded essays from our Fearless President Carl would win the day! Damian 71 240 with crumbling squeegees. -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

-- Group Message from "Dan Baldwin" <danbaldwin@hotmail.com> -- >I was thinking of building a 3.1 liter. A fine ideer! I already have a 2.8 with a P79 >head. I was wondering if this is a good head to ues or not. Not the best head for performance. Low compression and poor exhaust port design. N42 is what I'm using. Higher compression and the preferred square exhaust ports. Others prefer the P90 turbo head, which also has square exhaust ports. I would like to >be able to drive this car on the street and be able to use pump gas. With the N42 head and a 2mm HKS head gasket, I'm at 10.14:1. somewhat steep, but I ran mine like this with the stock cam (hotter cam allows more compression) at something like 10-12 degrees ignition advance at idle and had no pinging problems using 93 octane pump. With a hotter cam, I now run more ignition advance, ~17 or so. With a P90 head and 1mm HKS gasket, you'd be at 9.75:1. Shouldn't be a problem. Also >any suggestions on where to get the crank, rods, and pistons besides Nismo >and MSA would be appreciated, they are kind of expensive($1800) Time to scour the junkyards, or post to this list and the big list (go to www.zhome.com to find out how to join it) for the desired parts. 240Z rods, diesel crank from a diesel Maxima, and get new KA24 pistons. If you're gonna be racing or doing a lot of high-rpm usage, you might consider having the rods shot-peened and having the pistons cryo treated or something. If you're breathing through stock FI or SU carbs, you won't be revving high enough to worry with it. FWIW, my 3.1 breathes through 240Z SU carbs which, in spite of a 290/.503" cam, limits my rpm to 6500 or less (6500+ in lower gears, just over 6000 in 4th). before the cam, I was limited to 5000-5500. I don't know how much more the stock FI flows than SUs. BTW, I didn't have my rods shot-peened or pistons treated when my motor was built. If I was doing it again I probably would. 3.1 with SUs (or with FI) is a KILLER street setup. I do a fair amount of track work, though, and find myself in need of more. Still, even at the track it's great to have a ton of low-end, and at the high end even though torque falls off, it's still ahead of a stock L24, and monster torque is only an upshift away. I really need 3X2 44mm or 45mm carburetion to take full advantage of the motor, though. Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks Nigel! I wish I had that link about 2 years ago. I might have actually attempted to build my own. I'm sure it will come in handy for others.

Your cars might sell better if you had online photos.

I'm moving this post to the drivetrain forum. [mike]

-- Group Message from Carl Beck <cbeck@becksystems.com> -- >Dan Baldwin wrote: >Knew Kyle would beat me to a reply! >>Valve clearances should be .010I, .012E >Huh?! Actually, when I set mine the other day, I was doing it to >what I was accustomed to, .008I, .010E. Then I thought I'd check >the Haynes manual halfway through, and IT specifies .010/.012! >Damn, I thought. Then I checked Schneider's web site (Schneider >cam in my car) and fortunately it listed lash specs, .008/.010. >But I swear I remember .008/.010 as being correct for stock, too, >cuz when I had the Bmer (85 535i), I knew its specs were for more >lash than the Z, and it called for .010/.012. >I think the Haynes manual might be wrong. Anybody know for sure? >Hate to think of all those Zs out there not getting all the lift >and duration they deserve! Hi Guys: Just so we don't get carried away with worry over a thousandth of an inch one way or the other...;-). The Factory Manuals specify the valve lash for a car when new... They specify: Intake Exhaust HOT Setting 0.25mm (0.0098 in) 0.30mm (0.0118 in) With a reground cam - the lash spec.'s could very will change. Likewise, with an engine with 100K+ miles on it, the original Factory Spec.'s may not be the best for your car. Most of the time the valves will tighten themselves down over time... also with worn parts the original factory spec.'s may result in a lot of extra valve noise. Even though you are keeping the valve lash the same - other parts of the valve train wear and increase their tollerances (valve train slop)... sometimes your better off running a thousandth or two tighter valve lash on a high milage engine... It's a matter of some trial and error - but you want to be close to the original spec.'s - and you want the least valve train noise... The rational being that excessive valve lash results in excessive valve train noise and parts that are hammering themselves to death... to little clearence and you get excessive wear.. On a high milage engine if the factory spec.'s result in a lot of valve "tappit tick" - I'd give them a try at 0.008 and 0.010 and see what they sound like... If you have never adjusted the valves yourself - I agree with who ever said get Scott's Video. I'll add this: 1. Get yourself some good high quality, thin profile wrenches.. that fit the nuts exactally - the longer the handles the better for the beginner. Longer wrenchs allow you to keep your hands farther away from the head to begin with - and they allow you to put a little more torque on the nuts (better leverage for weaker hands like mine). 2. Get yourself a small brass hammer - to tap the wrenches and break the lock nuts lose as well as to tap them tight again. (a brass hammer won't bounce back when it strikes the wrench). 3. The first few times - wear leather work gloves. The edge of that head is like a razor - a couple of slips while twisting the wrench and you will lose a lot of blood. (Item #2 above helps greatly to prevent slipping when your putting a lot of pressure on the wrench - a little pressure and a light tap with a heavy brass hammer is much safer ;-).. OK - 1. Adjust the valves on the engine cold - FIRST. This will let you loosen the nuts etc and get used to adjusting the lash and tightening things back down - without burning your hands. 2. Warn the engine up - and then recheck the valve lash - adjust if necessary. Don't be afraid to try it - and do it several times - even if you don't have to - it's just one of thoes things you have to put some time into... Good tools and the right tools make the whole thing much easier to master... Good luck, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

John, I would check all of your connections. And, I would double check all of your connections. I had similar troubles with my distributor only to find out that the low-voltage connection was rusted. After I replaced the connector, it ran like a dream. I also had troubles with the similar "clamp" connection to the resistor. It actually came off completely after hitting a bump in the road. Engine died immediately. After I hooked it back up, she got me home. Check 'em all. Use some needle-nosed pliers to tighten them if necessary. You can also use WD-40 to clean out and prevent water from entering the connections. Just a few tips.. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

-- Group Message from Paul Henley <Paul@henley2.freeserve.co.uk> -- Hi Nigel Like you, untill I started my restoration, I was a beginner at doing basically anything wth cars. Like you , I asked others for advice,who knew about such things. The main response I got, was ,that to do a proper, full , 100% resoration, then a "rotisserie" was a must. So I borrowed one from a friend (it was hand made and was last used to hold a Triumph Stag) and modified it to suit my Z. Basically the shell of the car is suspended at the front and rear of the car. The two pieces of the rotisserie are bolted to the front and back of the car. At the back I have used the cars existing holes, used to fit the rear bumper. At the front, the car is bolted on via the holes in the chassis used to fix the tow hooks onto. It is a little difficult to try and explain without the aid of drawings etc. But if I was to offer one single piece of advice to anyone (especially a novice like me) about to undertake a resoration, it would be , USE A ROTISSERIE. You cannot comprehend how much easier it will make your resoration, and provided it is substantially made, I think it would be alot safer. Imagine, rebuilding a car, without actually having to get underneath it !! I am able to rotate my car 360 degres with next to no effort. I have access to every square inch of the underneath of the car and at any angle. If you wish, (and anyone esle) I will send you some pics via E Mail and try to do a more detailed drawing of the rig. It is only made of lengths of angle iron and scaffolding tubes welded together and so is fairly inexpensive, but it really is a winner. One other benefit that I can think of is that for anyone who does not have access to a large garage, I think it must be a big space saver, imagine having total access to your car , without having to move it at all. I think the first question you have to ask yourself is "Do I want to tidy up my Z or do I want to totally strip and rebuild it ? " if your intention is the latter, then I'm sure you won't regret the extra time and expense in using a rotisserie. Well that's my view. Paul Henley UK, 73 240Z presently susspended (and has been for 8 months) in a rotisserie. ----- Original Message ----- From: Nigel Mulvey CPP <nmulvey@lightstorm.com.au> To: 240z-Club <240z-club@peak.org> Sent: Friday, April 14, 2000 9:50 PM Subject: <240z-club> Rotisseries > -- Group Message from "Nigel Mulvey CPP" <nmulvey@lightstorm.com.au> -- > > As part of my continuing self education into the pros and cons of Z > restoration I would be grateful if someone on the list could give me an > insight into the use of rotisseries. It would appear they would be the ideal > way of doing underbody work. > > I noticed a pic on one of Pete Paraska's pages, was this homemade? How/where > did you attach the car and what with. > > Please excuse my naivity but I'm new at all this. > > Nigel Mulvey > Sydney, Australia > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------- > ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org > Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm > Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org > -------------------------------------------------------------- >

>> ! >> ...the tire trick is putting your big phat meatz under the rockers >> while you have it up on stands, in case it falls and tries to KRUSH-U! >-------------- > >Ya, I sorta figured. But, doesn't that damage the rockers if it >falls? I guess it's better to damage the rockers than YOUR BODY! There was no damage to either my rockers or the wheels/tires. First of all, if the tires are correctly positioned, the seam at the bottom of the rocker will be in the middle of the tire. After all, you don't want all the weight on the edge of the tire, causing the tire to pop out. Secondly, in my case, the car only fell a couple of inches, so there was not too much kinetic energy involved. >But, I'm still of the opinion that ONE should not attempt to get >under a car unless they are POSITIVE that it won't fall. One of the reasons (besides feeling stupid) that I don't often tell this story is we get into the questions about why it happened in the first place. First of all, you need to understand a little about what racing a Z is like when you compete against other more modern cars. While our competitors are hanging around telling tall tales about their racing bravado, we are almost always thrashing on the car. Some of that is self induced because my wife has the misconception that I should be paying more attention to my family when I am at home, so most of the work on the car occurs at the track. Most of it is due to the brakes needing constant attention to work well enough to be competitive. On a given race weekend, the car is up on jack stands about four times to change/clean/adjust/bleed brakes. A set of front pads lasts about one race, and fresh ones are on the car at the beginning of each race. Used pads are OK for practice and qualifying. The time that the car came off the stands, I had checked stability by pushing on the car, and it had been up on the stands for a while because I had been checking all the nuts and bolts to be sure they were tight. I was tightening the bolts on the back of the diff with a 24" breaker bar when I noticed that the boards that the rear jack stands were placed on were sinking into the ground on the edge closest to the rear of the car. By the time that had registered, the car was moving backwards and the jack stands were tipping over. It seemed like it took a long time, but I had just began to move when the car fell. Only after I crawled out from under the car did I realize just how close I had come to dying. Back to your question -- there is no way to be positive. All you can do is take adequate precautions and be as safe as possible. Did I learn a lesson? Of course I did -- I never get under a car without thinking about what happened that day. Even in a shop with lifts, I check to see that the safety catch is engaged. When you jack up cars as often as we do, you will eventually have a problem. That is why it is so important to have a back up system to protect yourself and to be as cautious as possible. Tires, wheels, cars, and anything else material is negligible compared to loss of life or a limb. And yes, the guy who taught me this knows I really owe him my life. My reason for posting this (much to my personal embarrassment) is that since that day, I have heard about a couple of people that have lost their life in similar situations and I hope that I can pass on the gift my friend gave me. Wayne Burstein wburstein@compuserve.com Mountain Motorsports Racing www.zhome.com/racing/mmr.htm Sterling, Virginia WDC Region SCCA, ITS #10 IZCC #214, NVZCC

The link should work by now. We had a few problems with our ISP.

-- Group Message from "Wayne Burstein" <wburstein@genicom.com> -- While both have their uses, I gave my ramps away years ago because I need the jack and jackstands and don't have the room for both. You do have to be a little careful with jacks and stands as Richard posted. Here is a little story I posted to the IZCC list a few years ago that is worth another look: I used to crew for a guy that raced a 240Z and every time a wheel came off the car, we had to slide it under the rocker panel until the car was taken off the jack/stands. This became a habit that undoubtedly saved my life. I was at the track tightening up the bolts at the rear of the differential when the car rocked off the jack stands. Since the only part of my body that was not under the car was from the knees down, the full weight of the car would have come down on my chest. If I was lucky, I would have been crushed instantly, but there was no way I would have been able to breathe. Since the wheels were under the rockers, the car only dropped a couple of inches, and luckily the wheels and tires were undamaged. It was late at night and no one was nearby. After I rolled out from under the car, I began to realize just how serious the situation had been. I am not at all embarrassed to admit that I had a serious case of the shakes for quite a while over this. Besides the obvious tip of putting the wheels under the rockers, I learned about not doing dangerous things without someone else nearby and about having a redundant system in dangerous situations. Hope this technique helps others as much as it helped me. Wayne Burstein wburstein@compuserve.com Mountain Motorsports Racing www.zhome.com/racing/mmr.htm Sterling, Virginia WDC Region SCCA, ITS #10 IZCC #214, NVZCC -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Hmmm.... Only thing I can think of is to put the bolts in before you raise the shaft into position. Then again, it might not be possible. The only reason I suggested rotating the shaft is to position it so the bolts can slide in easier. On mine, I had to rotate it because the two plates (held together by the u-joint) would pinch together at the top. They would widen at the bottom just enough to get a wrench in. As far as clearance, it is tight. I think that might be normal. If it's TOO TIGHT, something might not be positioned correctly. Or your tranny/diff mounts might be shifted. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

No Carl, your car won't fly off the road if you install them backward. I usually put my nuts (okay, no laughing) on the side which is easier to tighten. Use self-locking nuts, they will give you that extra added feeling of protection. Now, as far as putting them in, jack up the rear end, release the e-brake and put the tranny in neutral. You can then rotate the whole assembly by pushing on the rear tire. Once you rotate it, you can reach each of the bolts easily. Have someone there to hold the tire while you tighten the nuts. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

MikeT. What are you trying to pull out? Are you trying to pull out the flat panel around the vent levers? I think there are also screws on the inside of the dash. Pain to get out.

I moved this to the "Emergency Help" forum.

Reference Materials - Manuals by, Mike Gholson If you're smart, you'll buy multiple manuals. Don't rebuild your Z-car with only one manual. It was unfortunate for me to find out that some manuals may have a incorrect specifications. In my circumstance, I torqued a ball-joint bolt right off. Upon consulting another manual, I found out that my setting was 10lbs too high! This was not only a shock, but, I had to go order a new bolt. Therefore, here are the manuals I suggest (in order of importance): 1 - Factory Manual Buy this at your local Nissan dealer or you can order it from Courtesy Nissan. 2 - How to Restore Your Z-Car (by Wick Humble) This manual doesn't have all the data you need, but, it has "real life" ways to make that rebuild a whole heck of a lot more simple. It's a great book that has a lot of valuable information. 3 - The Z-Car CD-ROM I'd be nuts not to recommend the Z-Car CD. It contains computer graphics which have been scanned directly from the original Nissan Microfiche. It has *EVERY* part number and diagram that was only given to the dealers. The best part about this CD is the fact that you can print out pages and take them down to the dealer. I highlight the parts that I need and assemble a shopping list from that. Check it out here: http://www.240z.org/cdrom.htm 4 - Haynes I've found pictures and descriptions in this manual that have helped me debug problems. It's also a great cross-reference. And, if you believe it.... it has more information about torque and other settings when compared to the factory manual. 5 - Chiltons The Chilton manual has some information that can be valuable for cross-referencing. They also include diagrams that aren't available in other manuals. [This message has been edited by Mike (edited 03-22-2000).]

Check out this link if you're thinking about putting 280z parts in your 240z. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/engine.html