S30Driver

Jeff : Are the inside of the bumpers coated with anything for rust prevention? In your picture, its looks like the inside is painted black. If not, I would POR 15 the insides to protect them. On your car, I vote you leave them chrome...

Sounds great... Good choice on the OEM pump as well.

When you have everything back together, prime the system by temporarily disconnecting the small wire on the starter solenoid and turning the key to start. About 10 seconds should do it. Excess fuel will flow back to the tank thru the return line. Re-connect solenoid and start car. Check for leaks at pump and tank connections. Make sure you use fuel injection rated clamps on anything after and including the pump output side. Not those cheap gear clamps.

The voltage regulator has been relocated from its usual position and it's hood cover is missing. Might be something to do with clearance when the dealer installed ac was added. Nevertheless, a dumb place to put it and ruin the data plate. I have seen that exact same thing done before.

I believe 1978 was the last year for the tank drain plug. Many ways to accomplish draining the tank, a cheap siphon pump is what I would try first. https://www.harborfreight.com/fluid-siphon-pump-62613.html

For clarity, they offer 2 versions of the carbs, the ones I am interested in are the Original Roundtop Classic HS6 carbs. The other version are the HIF44 carbs, which look physically different and have the improvements to the cold start system. The improved version also requires the purchase of a adaptor to bolt up to the stock air cleaner. @AK260 In one of the pictures on their web site, the box has the name Burfen. Is this what you meant by Burien?

QUALITY 100% New genuine SU carburetor manufactured in the U.K. handmade to order. @AK260 Improved technology and the benefit of over 50 years of manufacturing performance practices to create a superior carburetor. Includes a manufacturer warranty and factory support. Warranty is mentioned, I am guessing 1 year - will have to contact them to find out.

The intake manifolds & balance tube are refurbed and now on the new motor. Missing is the linkage and carbs. He is keeping as close to original, stock condition as possible, there is no intention to ever sell the car, it will just become part of his estate. Hence the decision on the carbs.

Getting ready to source a set of carb's for my neighbors series 1 restoration. Motor is rebuilt & car almost ready to be dropped in. No carb's came with the car. The options are : buy a set of 4 screw carbs and send them off to be rebuilt. Or.... buy this new set from Round Top Fuel Systems. https://roundtopsfuelsystems.com/new-products/original-round-top-carburetor-set The cost is close to the same, say $200 for the core carbs plus about $750 with shipping for the rebuilts vs $980 for the new Round Top Su's. What say you? The Z Therapy route is a well known proven product. Has anyone here purchased the Round Top Fuel Systems carbs? I am leaning toward the new ones...

Hard to tell by the pictures, looks like just surface rust. The machine shop will check to see if the bores are in spec for taper. If they recommend the re-bore, you are likely looking at a new set of oversize pistons and rings.

I agree with Chas. The Nissan joints come with the 7 sets of snap rings and are expensive, around $90 a pop as I remember.... As a alternative, you could get @Captain Obviousto calculate the mathematical number of variations of switching the yokes and joints around one at a time.

Yes, hard to see though until you remove the 90 degree hose fitting. Looks similar to the one for the cold start valve.

Just a suggestion... you may want to add the all important steering wheel diameter in your 2 ads. Nice looking wheel by the way. GLWS

Here is the correct harness plug for the alternator... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZMN2B59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 On the 75 Z car, I did not have to do anything with the harness plug side from the old regulator. The 78 and newer internally regulated Hitachi alternators that Nissan used are what Blue has referenced in his tips. Also needed a diode to prevent discharge thru windings when car was off.

On the plus side, it's one of the desirable colors, low milage if actual. The minuses are ... it's a 2+2 which will limit potential buyers, the fiberglass body kit may not appeal to all buyers. I'll guess at anywhere between 8 - 16k.

I installed that same alternator in a friends 75 280z last year. Had no issues getting it working correctly. Unplug or remove the external voltage regulator, and use the connector pictured below wired correctly to the T connector in your 1st picture to excite the new alternator. Only thing I did not like about it, was the location of the main 12v output post compared to the stock position. On the side as opposed to the rear.

A interesting, possible option for you is to contact a member we have in France, I believe he is about 400 to 500km southwest of you. He is Sean Dezart, owner of a very high quality exhaust system supplier as well as other unique parts for our cars. He is very experienced & knowledgeable with S30's and may be able to give you his opinion on the car. Another possibility is the Fairlady Z Car Club of France.

I am guessing it was 1984 in North America. I purchased a new black Nissan king cab 4x4 pickup in 1985. Sold it in 2003, wish I had kept it.

There is a chrome shop about 6 miles from me, Whitworx Chrome & Metal Polishing, in Lincoln that does excellent work. Zup had his bumpers done by them about 6 years ago and the finish looked great then and still looks great today. I will have my 240 bumpers done by them sometime in the future. They do a lot of "show car" work. http://www.whitworx.com/

Ok, I'll be third in line as a source for caps, behind I think CaptO and Terrapin Z if you decide to replace the one cap and go the line bore route. I have 2 blocks which are not likely to see a engine bay, one is missing one cap. Genuine Nissan bolts included.... The caps are numbered from front to back with a directional arrow, which number is missing. Might as well go for numbers matching. lol

Definitely the way to go with the trim installed before setting the glass in the body. That little trim tool is a great investment for under 10 bucks. Eliminates the chance of nicking or tearing the rubber seal. Glad you had no issues. Will be a big hit in Colo at Zcon if you and Cody bring it ....

Did you start the string at the bottom and work around to the top? Did you have thee Lisle tool to put the trim in? Looks great, by the way!

Happen to have a Nissan automatic pulled from a running car. Just for fun, removed the modulator and tested it with my vacuum pump - holds vacuum. Let me know if you need it ....

It's a modified car. Has earlier front bumper, 280 vented hood, air dam etc.

Yes, the 73 model year was the start of changes to the front bumper to meet new US crash protection laws. The bumper is different from the earlier ones and had filler pieces on the ends and the center section due to being moved out further from the body.