S30Driver

Number 12 is one of the dropping resistor packs, I believe there are two. Number 2 is the very early transistor ignition, for 260z I think.

My plans are to get it out of the driveway as soon as possible! Just mainly the glass left to come out. Do you want your commision sent to your usual off shore account or added to your Zcon beverage budget?

Took a look inside the 78, the antenna was gone although part of the mast and the finisher was still on the outside. Here is a picture of the mount location and screw holes. It looks like your antenna will work with its bracket and the diagonal screw holes located in the picture above the false floor support, In any case, I have seen the earlier harada antennas mounted with common metal straps with holes to accommodate any difference.

I am working on at 78 parts car right now. I'll see if I can get the rear panel off tomorrow, see how it's mounted, and take a picture. (unless it rains)

Sorry to hear about you dilemma. I hope it can somehow work out for you and your car hobby enjoyment can continue. Our small club here is pretty good, about 24 members, all very helpful. We have tech days, drives, etc. A good mix of S30 thru the latest 370z stuff. Bring your beauty down to Colorado Springs this August for Zcon. Myself, Zup, and Scott will talk you into relocating to NW Arkansas.....

He has replaced the coil with one made by Bosch. Maybe temporarily put the original coil back in, see what the tach does.

Thanks guys for all your input. Looks like things are leaning toward the 4 screw carbs, correct me if i'm wrong....

I am helping my retired neighbor with his project which is now in the assembly stage and rounding up some of the missing parts. The car is a 1/71 build date. Vin is 19270. His goal is to keep it all stock. Are the correct carbs the 3 screw or 4 screw version? I don't know how early the transition was.

Actually Cliff, the SU's are being made.... https://roundtopsfuelsystems.com/new-products/original-round-top-carburetor-set

For a 73, that is correct for the choke cables.

I like it. Easy to correct the non stock flaws, except for the carbs maybe. A mornings work for Zup, He will be watching this one. Hopefully the deck emblem is just glued on.

Post number 3 in this thread shows what looks like a ligit 307 Pacific Blue car. I agree with grannyknot on the future value impact.

To satisfy Capt O's curiosity ... the bracket gets shortened by about 35mm or 1 3/8" and drilled to allow the new mounting bolt to pass thru. This is the leftover piece. I use it as a Z themed paperweight. Did this mod on a friends car last year. Additionally, the stock fan belt fits perfectly.

Its a good sign. When you have everything re-assembled you can test the regulator by disconnecting the vacuum line at idle to see if the fuel pressure increases by about 6 or 7 psi. If at idle your gauge reads 30 psi, it should go up to 36 or so.

Add a bottle of good injector cleaner in the fuel tank. Even with new injectors, sitting in the shop for almost a year with that wonderful quality California ethanol fuel is not good for them. Another easy thing to do is, with the battery disconnected, remove the ECU cover and unplug and re-plug the large harness connector a few times to clean up any corrosion on the contacts. If you have some contact cleaner, even better. With the car warmed up and idling, disconnect each injector one at a time to see if it firing. You should notice a distinct change in idle with one cylinder disabled. If you don't, that injector is suspect.

I agree with the timing set (japanese), manifold studs, freeze plugs, pan gasket. Maybe the oil pressure sender, if it shows any signs of leaking. Also a good time to consider upgrading to a turbo oil pump. It has better flow & pressure, since it had to supply the turbo and oil cooler in the automatic. A minor point, but if you care about factory originality, the oil pan should be black.... looks blue in your picture.

Thats a good question. I suppose it depends if you could order the car in the 638 paint without the sports appearance package. Red stripes, dual sport mirrors, louvers, and the alloy wheels. My guess is the black ones were all built with the full black pearl treatment for north america. No one knows exactly how many were produced.

True, but you can only get the silver / black and probably automatic. Only 50 of the white / red, and only 25 or less were 6 speed manual.

Nice! Looks like it was converted to solid lifters. One less thing to worry about as the hydraulics have been nla for a long time.

@Mark Maras Found the difference in rotors ... From his pictures, it appears he has the right one if car is later than Jan of 82 Early Late

When you remove the valve cover, look at the rocker assembly on any cylinder, if they are solid lifters, you will see two large nuts that lock the clearance adjustment once made. Also a slot for a screwdriver to make the adjustment on top of the rocker above the nuts. The hydraulic lifters will not have any clearance adjusters. A picture would be great when you have the cover off to clarify, anyone on here will be able to tell you which you have.

I would call or email MSA, the Z store, and Ryan at ZcarDepot and ask what brand they have and if its a Japanese manufactured part.

The P90A is the head that came from the factory with hydraulic lifters. Therefore the clearance is not adjustable. However, there is always the possibility that a previous owner converted it to solid lifters. When you have nothing better to do, pull the valve cover and you can see if you have the adjustable solids.

I had a 82 & 2 or 3 83's Mark. Never owned a 81, the 1st year. I remember when I bought my ignition parts from AutoSport in Seattle, the early rotor came up and the counter guy there is very sharp, put me on to it so I got the correct parts. I remember he called his supplier about it but can't remember what the difference was. I must be getting older .... Good possibility he has the wrong rotor and or a cheap cap causing his unusual problem.

For the valve clearance, I would go with .008 .010 for the cold setting if you have the solid lifter head. On the pass side of the head, near the #2 plug, does it say P90 or P90A ?