S30Driver

I had good luck with YEC brand cap & rotor on the 3 turbo cars I have owned. Japanese brands are always preferred. Read my previous post again about the rotor change in 82....

What brand is the cap & rotor currently on the distributor? Yec, Standard Motor Products etc.... What is the build date of your ZX? The 1st year turbo's used a different rotor, after Jan of 82 the rotor changed. Make sure you have the correct rotor, the cap is the same for all turbo motors.

Special recognition to jfa.series1 for trophy consulting. Thanks Jim!

Last weekend, a group of Z enthusiasts gathered in Branson MO for the 1st annual fall Pumpkin Spice Edition of Branson Z Fest. The gathering began Wednesday and ended on Sunday. During the festivities, on Saturday, there was a judged car show. Judges included myself, Scott McElroy, and head judge on loan from Capitol Z Club in Texas, Mike W. With the judging complete, Mike W took over the closing ceremony, and limited edition T shirt awards were handed out to some special cars and people. Big thanks to Chris Carl of the ZCCA and Josh Lyman of the Ozark Z Club for assisting with the introductions. However, a very special award was given to a member of the NW Arkansas Z Car Club to honor the memory of Mr Yoshihiko Matsuo. Jim Daniels - Zup was the first recipient of this award. Congratulations Jim! No one in the club deserved it more. With the conclusion of the T shirt competition awards, Mike W announced that one car had scored exceptionally well in the first round of judging and had advanced to a second round of judging. With great fanfare & drama, Mike announced that with a score of 295 .... Zup's stunning and true to originality 73 240z was awarded the Gold Medallion Trophy & Plaque by the NW Arkansas Z Car Club, retiring the car from Pumpkin Spice competition. What a great moment! Really big congratulations Jim!! Jim & Walt feeling the heat of competition....

It's a interesting radio, stereo, should be a S button on the front panel. Might have been a expensive optional radio in 78. I assume you got the sub harness with the purchase of the radio. Could not find the service manual online. One site shows they have it but no way to download the pdf and view it. However, a good guess is the 3 pin molex is for the power antenna control. The 6 pin molex is power and speakers. The din connector is possibly for a external 8 track tape option. I don't think cassette was quite available yet in cars. On the 6 pin connector with the 5 wires, Nissan typically used Blue for +12v power, Black for ground. The remaining wires should be for the speakers, 2 since it is stereo. The earlier radio's, Nissan grounded the speaker on one side and used only one wire to drive the speaker from the radio. This may be different. The speaker in the mono radio was 4 ohms, they may have switched to 8 ohms in your version. i would bench test the radio with some sort of 12v power supply to verify it powers up and figure out the speaker connections before installing it in the car. Hope this helps... r

What is the model number of the radio? Should be on the bottom plate. Is it manufactured by Hitachi?

This is another option from KF Vintage, depending on what you have. I purchased their floor pans and rails - top notch quality. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/lower-front-fender-repair-section-left-side-12in-datsun-240z/

If you are talking about the coolant temp sensor circuit to the ecu Charles, then if the circuit and sensor are working properly - adding resistance to the circuit with a rheostat will only add fuel. The ecu will think the coolant is colder and compensate with more fuel - make it richer. Unfortunately, you can't go the other way - leaner, unless you were to adjust the afm to a lean condition beforehand in an attempt to get the pot somewhere in the middle of its range and then you could adjust the mixture up and down accordingly. I wish my old bank account drifted richer over time ...

This may be an option to consider. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/brake-kit-individual-parts/15-16-upgraded-master-cylinder-for-240z-260z-280z

Briefly speaking, if you change the master cylinder to say 15/16" , it will compensate for the increased volume of fluid to move in the 4 piston calipers, with less pedal travel than if you left the stock MC in the system. However, the bigger bore MC will require more pedal effort. (you never get something for nothing) Therefore, the change to a larger booster compensates for this by reducing the pedal effort back near the oem systems specs. Hope this helps ...

Here is what the factory shop manual shows for the body / door seals .... Shows the window sash upper seal A, door to body B & quarter window C.

The upper door seal fits into a channel on the top of the window frame, not on the body. If your 260z has this channel, you can install the seals. It is also manufactured by Precision. Available from places such as MSA, ZcarDepot, etc. The seals were part of the continuing improvements made as time progressed, I have always assumed to address wind noise complaints.

Looks like an aftermarket air dryer of what's left of the AC system.

I assume it is a manual transmission. If it shifted smoothly thru all the gears, and did not exhibit any excessive noise or whine, especially in 1st & 2nd gear, I would leave it alone. Replace the seals, drain and refill with AC Delco Friction Modified fluid. In addition, refresh the shifter bushings.

In addition, FI rated hose clamps on the high pressure side. No cheap parts store gear clamps.

It is the catalytic converter warning light. Probably needs service or overheating.

7tooZ I like your solution. Assuming you also have the Zstory exhaust system, how did you mate up the stock downpipe to the system? As far as I know, Sean Desart does not have the downpipe for the stock manifold available yet. Apologies for any distraction of the original topic.

With the plugs removed, you can also try to rotate the motor (clockwise) with a 27mm or 1 1/16" socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. it is easier to do if you remove the fan assembly - 4 10mm nuts. You may have to let the oil of choice that you put into the cylinders work its way thru the rings for a few days. Best of luck!

He used the screwdriver to activate the starter solenoid by putting it across the small tab to the big + battery connection, bypassing the ignition switch. If the electric fuel pump is in the stock location behind the tank, it will prime itself.

The seat back foam should have a channel molded into the foam that the round edge of the metal frame fits into. This channel should be present on both bolsters and the headrest section of the foam. Maybe take a picture of the back side of the seat back foam. Have never used MSA''s foam. What material is the dark area of the foam?

I think Mark may be referring to the 8008 adhesive.

I don't think so. Number 1 , it would destroy the 22 trillion dollar US economy. Number 2 , I think the trucking, farm, and aerospace industries would not like it. Number 3 , crude oil is refined for much more than fuel, plastics etc. Take with a grain of salt what you read or see on those radical left new green deal websites. As far as the gas goes for your 280, run quality non-ethanol if you can. I replaced a $300 Nissan fuel pump inn a friends 280 last year that was leaking due to sitting with ethanol fuel. I am lucky, the Phillips 66 near me has non-ethanol in mid and premium grades. My .02 cents (dollars actually)

Thanks for the update. Bring it up to Branson in October so we can critique it ... ?

Yes, I had too cheap a set of extractor tools, but worked well enough on the instrument pins to complete that job. The brass tube looks like a good idea. Looking for the one for the large pins in the round headlight connectors so I can get those connectors 3D printed.

In my experience with the trim, it is actually stainless, not chromed, so it polishes back up nicely with steel wool and a buffer. Therefore as an alternative to new, a used set if carefully removed from say a parts car by cutting the rubber seal to release it without bending and distorting it is a excellent option. I invested in the trim tool to re-install it in the seals channel before putting the glass back in. The trim re-installs easily with a soapy lube in the channel if its shape is not changed on removal. Unfortunately, I am guessing parts cars are few and far between in the UK. It is OEM from ZcarDepot, the 200 prefix in their part number is the key for OEM.