S30Driver

Yes.... ZcarDepot has both front & rear oem trim. Spendy at over $300 each kit. https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/windshield-and-hatch-glass-trim-chrome-set-240z-260z-280z?variant=19281681449073

My experience .... 1 The Precision seals (sold by many of the above mentioned vendors) the windshield seal works & fits well with no gaps including the fit of bright trim, also the quarter window seals. I paid a lot of attention to fitment and positioning the seal and the trim perfectly on the glass before installation. 2 For the hatch window seal I went with OEM Nissan, about $190, for the difference in price, I considered it worth it. The outer hatch Precision seal is fine. 3 The door seals are the biggest issue, I have used the Kia 0K018-59760B seal on my hatch, fits and works well. Others report they work perfect on the doors. I suspect the 2002 Kia Sportage seals may no longer being made now that it is 2020.... I have some Vintage rubber seals coming for my neighbors project 240 now ready for paint. Will comment on fitment when that stage is reached.

I have seen them but never used them myself. Many of the cheap colored, anodized lugnuts are aluminum alloy. My problem with them would be the 2 dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) causing corrosion and grafting the lugs to the nuts. I'll stick with steel.

Consider a Exedy 240mm turbo clutch kit, and appropriate flywheel. Have the flywheel lightened to compensate for the heavier clutch parts. Should handle your power well.

It does not get much more RFD than where I live in nw AR. No traffic except the odd tractor, low cost of living, easy drive to Zup's garage for spirited Z car talk and barbeque goodies. (hard to compete with Road Atlanta but what the hell...)

Have you replaced the rack bushings Dave? Easy to check, watch for any vertical movement when turning steering wheel with hood open. Need helper or your camera for passenger side check. Might be unrelated to your problem but worth checking.

Ditto .... Sold my Halda stuff with car long time ago. Wife did not like the sport / competition or the look of the drive cables on the car coming from the front hubs and curving around into the grill area. Still have some of the gear sets to calibrate the mileage somewhere.

Yes, looks like you can connect the Blue pin to 12v + and the Black pin to ground - to test your clock.

The "Reds" are special active shocks which automatically change the damping based on driving and road conditions. The "Yellows" are the Sport shock aimed at street and track use.

Makes a lot of sense Jim. Totally understandable. I too have been coming to the same conclusion. Will be discussing it when the other Jim in Bentonville returns from his latest work adventure. Us Jim's need to stick together.

The filter Mark is referring to is on the right. Appears to be for horizontal mounting, as it is important to have the offset return line in the 12 o'clock position. The left one looks like it is intended to be mounted vertically. In & out are 5/16" the return is 1/4". Amazon, about 7 bucks. Thanks Mark, I think you're on to something!

Yes, new floor pans, rails, rear valance, hatch sill. All nearing completion. Some minor repair to the hood also complete, primed and sanded,

Thanks Jim, one of your answers is better than 10 from many others .... Here is the work in progress on vin 19270

I borrowed this picture from @motorman7 in his Orange thread. (thanks Rich..) I am helping my neighbor with has series 1 240z restoration. The reinforcement flat plate welded on the rear area of the floor pan, there is one on the driver side of his car but not on the pass side. Is there supposed to be both and what is the purpose, is it just reinforcement?

This is indeed very sad news. His memory will live on in the iconic cars he created.

With all the work at the thermostat housing, check and verify that you have not swapped the connections to the coolant temp sensor and the thermotime switch. They are the same and the ecu will not like it, adding a ton of fuel resulting in a very rich condition.

Yes, if it is a 4 speed. A 5 speed takes slightly more. The Redline gear oil is very good, I have used it, however many of us have switched to AC Delco Friction Modified with great success. Something to consider ...

Big thanks to Steve for putting me on to the kit with the male & female pins I needed to adapt the new Speedhut gauges to the stock dash harness 6 & 8 pin connectors. They worked out well.

A timely post on windshields. Last year I replaced my original pitted windshield with a oem green tint, no blue top band replacement manufactured by Fuyao Glass. Fuyao is a large oem manufacturer with plants here and overseas. I discovered that Vintage Glass sources the Fuyao windshields and re-sells them. The total cost with shipping was very high, so after much research, I found a very large glass distributor in Tulsa that had them in stock and picked it up at their warehouse. Very recently, a group of us, including a notable member in Austin purchased a number of the Fuyao S30 windshields. We discovered that this distributor had a total of 9 in various warehouses around the country. We purchased all of their existing inventory, and after they arrived, picked them up. At this point are all are spoken for. The distributor indicated that they had no idea when or if they would ever be manufactured again. This is what drove our decision to purchase all of the inventory. I took a quick picture after unloading them last weekend...

As previously mentioned, you need to make a change with the headlight harness to convert it from the negative ground switched to positive switched for the led lights to work. If you are in the market for led's, take a look at Vintage Car Led Headlights (they don't look funny) https://vintagecarleds.com/7-inch-round-headlights/ Highly recommended ....

You are correct Cliff. The switch in the picture looks like an aftermarket one. The oem switch has spade connections as opposed to the wires coming from the molded switch body. Mine, one of the spade connections was broken off almost flush with the switch body and I was able to solder the connection to get it functional. I eventually need to replace the air dryer and the switch, but am getting away with it for now.

What is the height difference of the header flange & intake? Is it less than the height of the thick stock washers?

@Zup can probably give you some insight on those carb hoses. He is very knowledgeable on that particular carb configuration.

Although you say you checked for vacuum leaks, I would get a gauge and check the reading, see where you are at.. As a quick test, when warm and running at idle, unscrew the oil cap, remove, and see how the motor responds. Its a sealed system, if no change, you have a significant vacuum leak. As an example, when you changed injectors, did you replace all the seals with new ones? Before changing more parts, if you have not done so, run the all the efi system checks in the 78 shop manual, record the info and report back. Many members here can help you interpret that information.

All good info. Another possibility if the above check out is the clutch ball pivot has broken. You will know when you examine the slave and the actuator arm it moves. Hopefully not, its a little more labor intensive to get to.