S30Driver

Saturday was Zup's Birthday. Some friends and neighbors stopped by to wish him well. Great food & a very special desert. Happy Birthday Jim! My best friend ever!

mbz , I don't want to influence you unnecessarily to spend money, but a cheap vacuum gauge is a good investment. It will tell you a lot about the shape of your L6 motor.

Where is the Captain when you need him..... Probably out somewhere in Philly enjoying a steak and some micro brews ....

As Zed said, there are many possibilities....... the pcv hose, egr area, injector seals etc. Its a sealed system, good news is, if its a big leak - easy to track down and find...

Yes, that would work. The vacuum warm at idle should be around 18" or so. I suspect it is low due to a leak.

That is a trick set of pliers! Have you measured the manifold vacuum at idle? With the oil cap removed and the motor does not stumble, it indicates a problem there which would explain the high fuel pressure.

A good quality 100 psi hose, (gates for example) should be ok). *** Its working pressure rating is 100 with a burst rating of around 900 psi. The higher rated stuff I am assuming is for more modern systems that run at much higher pressure than ours. *** unless the carb regulations in your wonderful state require the 225 stuff.....

Looks like the cord is a problem, The spool end has a metal tip with a hole that a tiny screw goes thru to keep it on the spool. Dave has given you all the good tips ....

No worries, its repairable, especially if the mast is in good shape and not bent / broken. Problem is likely with the nylon line on the spool that moves the antenna mast up & down. Also could be the clutch adjustment. Easy to dissemble, pay attention, make notes of the assembly order of the bits & pieces. Working on one right now.

Yes, you are correct, the driver side outer tie rod (left) is left hand thread.

The 3015 strut is the correct front replacement for a stock (non coilover) suspension setup. Are the springs seated in the perches correctly? Any other issues you ran into when you re-assembled? I looks like something is binding & keeping the suspension hung up from settling to the correct height.

I agree with Terripin Z, Part of the BAT winning formula is the week long commentary by some very knowledgeable experts on this marque (just not in the market to purchase during that time). Some, members of this forum. Bat also actively moderates the posts. I have tuned in to about a half dozen of the Datsun auctions, its a great format to sell or buy.

On the end of the illumina box, does it have part number BZ3015. BZ3016 is for the rear. This is the correct Tokico front strut part number.

There was a thread back earlier in the year where this was briefly discussed with good points for 2019 as the 50th anniversary as well as 2020. Although the car was released to the public and the automotive world in the fall of 1969, it debuted as a 1970 model year car. My vote is for 2020....

There is also this option, in stainless .... Available from ZcarDepot & MSA I believe. For late 280z, a slight bend is needed to line up with the different wheel cylinder angle of the port for the fitting. Somewhere on here is a thread I did a while back, replaced both the bridge lines due to one flex hose damaged & could not release it for the bridge line.

Good job. A great place for testing drive line noise, u joints, is a underground or enclosed public parking garage. The enclosed space and tight turns up & down the ramps amplify the noise, make it easier to tell left side or right etc.

Sounds great! PM on way....

Steve J is of course correct. The do not affect the main cooling area of the radiator. Many of the aftemarket manufacturers standardized on one model which includes the section for the auto transmission.

Zup is away on a business trip this week, he returns Friday. Put the speaker aside & I am sure he will make arrangements with you.

Its purpose is to drive the spool & clutch mechanism. In the pictures, the clutch is removed and it is held on by a nut & washer with a spring providing pressure. The nylon piece looks like a hex nut the fits into the underside of the black antenna cable spool. At first I thought it was threaded on to the shaft, but the shaft is knurled and it is just a very tight press fit. With mine being cracked, it slips when the shaft turns to drive the spool / clutch assembly. I imagine it could be made from aluminum or brass & held on with a tiny set screw.

Yes sir, that is the part that is cracked on mine. The furthest right is also what looks like the same cover for the spool / clutch etc. (nice antenna farm you have going) Would you be willing to sell the nylon part separately?

You can also use vinyl tubing instead of cotton rope to keep the valve seated.

The good news is, that is a bridge line between the flex hose & the wheel cylinder. If the existing line can't be repaired satisfactorily, it is replaceable. As Wayne has eluded to, a good quality flare wrench is important to have.

Some peoples perception is that they can get more in value with the trade as opposed to hard cash. This particular trade was definitely the exception to that rule though.