S30Driver

Zup's is a lot more silver since last Saturday

FWIW, when I redid my oem system, it held vacuum pressure overnight. The compressor shaft seal is a very common leak source. I was fortunate that in my documentation I received with the car, the original owner upgraded the AC to R134a and the Nissan dealer installed a new compressor & evaporator.

The flat seat back bracket should be mounted on the console side of the seat back. The thicker bracket, goes on the door side with the clear plastic to protect the seat back covering.

You don't mention if the coolant level is changing in the overflow reservoir. Have you been monitoring it? How long has this been going on? Could be a number of things, frost plug corrosion, etc.

Nice job Dave. I restored my factory AC to operational condition last fall. On the drier, one of the copper connector tangs was broken that switches the compressor on & off, I did a temporary repair but would like to replace the drier anyway. Where did you find yours? Did you do a youtube video of your AC work? I enjoy watching your videos.

Chickenman A poor choice of words on my part. I should have said, don't like to run them when the temps go below 50 degrees and at night nears freezing. The Star Specs like warm weather, April thru October here.

I don't think the difference is worth it. That's the problem with the 14" size, few choices and what's available is getting pricey. For comparison, last fall I bought a set of Sumitomo's for the colder weather (can't run my Dunlop's below 50 degrees) 215 60 15's for $276 shipped from Tires-Easy.com. Very pleased with them.

Interesting & Nice! I would have gone after that car just for the provenance it has ...

What was old is new again! A nice aftermarket Alpine radio was in my car when I purchased it, but I have always want to put an original Hitachi radio back in. Luckily for me, a buddy of jfaseries1 , Scott M moved here and I was able to work a deal with him for one of his spare radio's. After recently working on some of Zup's early radio's, and with the nice weather here of late, I got the bug to get it installed. Tested, refreshed & cleaned the radio up, removing the corrosion they all seem to have on the top plate. Then, with the schematic & a new 6 pin male connector, (thanks for sourcing that for me Zup) I was able to return the wiring to factory spec. It works great, a little more finishing & trim work, and should be good for a 2 or 3 point bump on my interior score at Austin Zcon.

Fluke 77

Mentallite is correct. It is a block under the AAR that the coolant loops thru to heat the bi-metallic spring in the AAR. In the 1st picture, the factory steel lines have been replaced with braided hose, they likely failed due to age & corrosion. (a fact I can attest to)

Not everyone, however, on Hybridz that may be much more accurate. The Aussie's get some great stuff though.

Refer to this thread for options to order the correct hardware.

Important is to vary the engine speed when driving the first 200 to 300 miles. Don't drive at constant rpm for too long, or lug the motor during this period, this helps seat the rings. If you plan to run synthetic in the future, don't switch to it until 3 or 4 thousand miles. After the break in, use a quality filter like Nissan or Wix.

I like being #2 on the list

The fitment of the new ss bolts will be fine. They are just not factory correct if originality is a concern.

Oliver's alternator, shipping is about $40, uses a special belt. He does not specify what it is, cost $28. He has offered the alternator for quite a while, I wonder if anyone here is running one?

In reading the giant paragraph, you do not mention plugging or welding closed the bung on the lower part of the exhaust manifold by the machine shop.. Since you have removed the egr system, if this was not done, it would account for you excessive exhaust noise.

Don, if you don't get the parts from one of the regular members here .... check with Ryan at Zcardepot ( 844-865-2473 ). He has a number of parts cars and might have what you need.

The old cars like the older plugs best, that is what they were designed & engineered for. Platinum is mostly marketing hype. Oreily's can usually order then & have them in 3 or 4 hours.

Nice. Dave make quality stuff. Did you have to do anything to adapt it for your car, since he designed it to be plug & play with the 240?

Attended the 1st monthly meeting of the North West Arkansas Z Car Club (NWAZCC) Discussed the startup articles, goals, and positioning for membership in ZCCA. Highlight of the night, as Zup pointed out, was 2 owners of original Scarab's sitting at the same table. More to come....

Without fail, request only NGK plugs from the parts store, the copper ones, nothing fancy like platinum. People like NGK's wire set as well. The right coil will last a very long time, depends if the ballast resistor has been bypassed and other factors. The cap does look good, made in Japan ...

Very nice. Thanks for the followup pictures Cliff! Interesting that in the first picture, he has replaced the correct vent emblems with series 1 ....

I believe her car has the original TIU. Sorry to read of your problems with your beloved car Jai. Did you keep the original ECU, that might eventually come in handy to troubleshoot the problem. Chickenman is right, at least the problem should be much easier to diagnose & correct now.