S30Driver

You should be able to remove the adapter for the oil cooler where the stock filter mounts, to bypass the cooler. You might need to re-install the oil filter stud, I don't remember if it is removed to fit the adapter on.

Thanks for doing the write up on this. Looks to be an excellent alternative to the original spare.

Kira, if you decide to go with protective side molding, choose the adhesive type as opposed to the pop riveted mount style (no holes in the body and you can remove them if you ever change your mind). If you google Body Side Molding, you can find them from suppliers such as Cowlesproducts.com.

Can you elaborate on what you used for your replacement spare Bruce? I actually test inflated my original spare with a 12v compressor a few years ago, likely the 1st time it has seen air, it worked fine, but I'm always open to better options. Sorry for sidetracking the interesting thread.

** Followup ** I ordered the replacement SS hard lines from ClassicTube, and after waiting 10 days with no notification or info from them, gave them a call back and was informed it would be about another 2 to 3 weeks. Was originally told about 7 to 10 days, so cancelled the order and ordered the 73 thru 76 SS lines from Zcardepot. I am happy to report that the only real difference is the slight downward angle of the inlet on the wheel cylinder. Carefully shaped the SS line to accommodate the new angle and the result was a perfectly fitting new hard and flex line on the rear driver side. Just need to order another Nissan flex line to do the passenger side. The only catch to the new line is the SS fittings are 11mm as opposed to the standard 10mm size. Now I have 9,10,11, &12mm flare wrenches. Bottom line for 77 and 78 280z owners is the earlier rear SS line from Zcardepot works perfectly fine. They look nice too and will probably never change in appearance.

Very nice job! Glad it's running well. All you need are some new decals for that air cleaner. I suggest you celebrate with a beer or two.

Out of interest because I am getting ready to do my front wheel bearings and rotors, I opened my Timken boxes & found Timken bearings. The box has a hologram with a serial number. Maybe there are some fakes out there.

Replaced all my weathered front & rear bumper rubber with new OEM nissan,

It's actually called..... GoodAss Beer. White & Black can, available in 6 pack's. Flying off the shelves right now.

http://www.bransonzfest.com/ The annual Branson get together in coming up June 2nd thru the 5th. I'll be there for the first time. Arriving early on the 1st. It's at a new hotel this year, the Honeysuckle Inn & Conference Center. Very reasonable group rate. Should be a fun time. Already getting my luggage & accessory planning together .....

Very sorry to hear about your son. There is a very knowledgeable member, JeffG78 that lives in Northville, not too far away. If he sees your post, he may be able to be of some assistance.

I was worried about the seat height with the new foam, so during the winter I sat on it at various times to see if I could condition it a bit. Seems to have worked out, I definitely sit higher in the seat now, but don't hit my head on the liner so it seems to be ok so far. I'm happy to hear your seat heaters have performed well so far. They have a 3 year warranty, but I would no be excited to rip the seat apart to replace them.

If I was the successful winning bidder (and I wish I were) I would pay to store the car in Toronto until August 2nd, then roll on over to Zcon & collect a trophy. Come home with both.

Possibly the newer one has a serious problem. Is it a rebuilt from a parts store?

The voltage rating for the fuse must be at least equal or grater than the maximum voltage of the circuit it's protecting. The current rating is of course the most important factor. The 250v fuse rating will be fine for our cars.

I might delude myself about my upholstery work & join Capt O's exclusive club and treat myself to a bag of ......

The switches come in the kit, 3 position rocker, Low - Off - High. Led on each lights green for low, red for high. I carefully drilled the console to locate the switches where they would not interfere with the choke mounting plate cable position. Never know, I might be tempted to switch to carbs on day ...

I do and will try to locate them for you, since I did the passenger seat of a longer time frame, I misplaced some of my pictures. If you look at picture 5, the butt heater is located behind the crease in the seat where the flap is hog ringed down to the springs to give the seat its shape. Due to the flap, I rotated the heater 90 degrees & for each side, oriented it so that the wiring exited on the side facing the tunnel. The harness then runs under the tunnel carpet / console area up to the front to make the electrical connections.

They are in both seat sections. Due to the flap in the seat, I turned that one sideways so it does not heat the very front section ahead of the flap. You can also cut the heaters down to fit but I opted not to do that.

i went to the store to get some popcorn to enjoy for the last two hours of tomorrows event. Sitting at eighteen one now with more to come. Best of luck again & hope my estimate was low!

Thanks you guy's. Gotta try to keep up with that award winning silver 73 running around just north of me ......

After a big delay this winter, and with the help of warmer weather, I finally have almost completed the interior refresh. Just some minor things left such as the door panel wood accent strips. The seats were the big project, worked on them on and off over the last couple of months. Tried working with the seat leather over the winter but it was difficult when cold and I did not want to use a heat gun on it. The warmth of the sun on my porch made it more pliable and less chance of damage. I used Hardway's excellent DIY seat restoration as a guide. It's very comprehensive and gave me the confidence to attempt the seats myself. His suggestion to use tie wraps to pull the flap up thru the foam where you can hog ring it to the springs works great. Many thanks Sir. For the seat covers I used Interior Innovations leather seat kit. The quality is superb, all leather including the non-seating surfaces, they let me customize the embroidery on the headrest, (I sent them some high res pictures of my Datsun deck emblem) and the buying experience was one of the best I have ever experienced. They are made overseas and I was notified of their status every step of the way, including a call from DHL asking if I would be home the next day for their scheduled delivery. The seat foams were purchased from Banzai Motorworks, also very nice quality, and a super smooth transaction. Thanks Mike. From Amazon, I purchased the foam for the back of the seats. it is 2 or 3mm thickness & a roll is 36" x 60" which was perfect for both seats. It is a nice density closed cell foam, about $8 . Also used a small amount of it to fill out the top of the head rests. Also from Amazon, I sourced a seat heater kit, very nice and about $60 . For the integration of the switches into the console, I took a page from Rossiz's interior book & mounted them in the flat area ahead of the ashtray. They look like they belong there. Thanks Geoff. One thing for sure, this is not a trivial job. At least not for me. I probably took 5 times longer than the average person - I am so paranoid about the fit & symmetry, stitching straight, etc. It would bug me forever if they did not look right. Hardway was right... check your work as you go. This was one of his best tips in his guide. It's a real workout to stretch and hold the covers on the frame while you hog ring it or fit the covers over the tabs. i found the seat back to be a degree of difficulty more than the seat bottom. I probably deviated from Hardway's write up in two places. I inserted stiff coat hanger wire in the edge pockets where the seats get hog ringed as I did not totally trust the cotton cord sewn in for reinforcement. The factory covers have wire in those pockets, some of which I re-used. Probably a little over kill. Also, I purchased a single hole punch to make clean round holes in the two flaps behind the reinforcing wire to allow big tie wraps to pass thru and pull the headrest cover tight to the frame. This allowed me to fasten the headrest flap from the top of the foam as opposed to under it which risks bending the seat back foam and breaking it. i used three heavy tie wraps and added some hog rings as well. I used three big tie wraps on the seat bottom flap to the springs as well, and added more hog rings. All in all, I think the seats look good. I have about 80 miles on them - they feel great! Let me know what you think. Before I forget, now that the new sound deadening, carpet, and seats are in, Patcon asked about improvement in cabin noise. I would say it has made around a 50 to 60% reduction in cabin road noise and still have some of the deck area to complete. With windows up, it's a dramatic drop. the

I recently removed all the side window tint that was put on by the owner before me. Didn't like it, too dark. The factory tint looks just right to me. Left the hatch window tint on to try to preserve the new carpet.

This is terrible news. Such a wealth of knowledge lost. Never had an opportunity to meet him in person, but always enjoyed his informative & insightful posts.

Sorry to hear the latest news. Hopeful for the best of outcomes for both you and the car.