S30Driver

Thanks Travel'n man, you read my mind on the 3.9. (currently is the 3.54) Will check STi option.

Completed changing all my fluids today with the transmission gear oil . The transmission now has Redline MT90. Now that I have changed it, I know I'll soon run across a late ZX 5 speed, do the swap, and get to change the gear oil again.

Super nice Matt! Hope your back is better. Correct me if I am wrong, but won't you need a smaller scale fuel pressure gauge since you are now running carbs? (very nice carbs)

Sad news ... and what Zup said.

FastWoman better get movin on her ZXT search or she will miss the boat... although I hope she keeps her 78.

If you can't source the Mallory, why not consider the 123 ignition unit and get something designed in this century?

"Okay, I'll bite. What are the tangerines for? Funnel plugs?" It's an homage to Bunny Luv in hazmat's rustoration thread.... I looked for the carrots, but could not find them here.

Very nice progress & pix... except for the hands. Following with interest.

Nice looking rockers.... You need to get that Z back on the road soon, especially with the nice weather of late. FWIW, On Site's recent thread, you asked about machine shops with L6 experience in the Seattle area. Check with Autosport in Ballard (johnny's machine shop). They moved from downtown, they do alot of jaguar & exotics, I used to get alot of parts there. Talk to Brad, he will point you in the right direction. Their reputation is very good. Not too far from you.

Well..., taking advantage of the unusual good weather here of late, I went ahead and did my R200 diff gear oil change. Was about to order it from Amazon, but I checked around and found a local speed shop called Honest Performance that had it for 15.45 per quart (1.04 cheaper), so went ahead and picked up 2 quarts. $33.83 total with tax. Next, I needed about 3' of clear vinyl or plastic tubing for the refill, so went to Lowes and will looking around their plumbing dept. found a big roll of 1/2" id clear tubing on clearance for 1 dollar. Total for 45' roll with tax ... $1.10 After searching & reading some of the issues with frozen fill plugs, I decided to check on mine the other day. Checked both the diff plugs & the transmission ones. Hit them both with some Kroil penetrating oil and then backed them out 1/2 way and re-tightened. The fill plug was very tight, it is a 17mm square head male plug. My 17mm wrench would not budge it, but a 19mm box end fits perfectly. Still could net get enough leverage working under the car so.... I used a wood block & my extra nissan pantograph jack under the wrench to turn it. Not very pretty but worked great. No room to get a socket in there. The drain plug is 13mm square female, I don't have that special drain plug socket, so I was just careful with a 1/2" drive short extension & breaker bar. Broke free with no issues. Today, I drove the car to warm the gear oil up, and let it drain for an hour. Jacked the front up a bit to get as much of the old oil out as possible. Cleaned the drain plug, put on a little antiseize, and re-installed. Opened the deck area up, removed the spare to gain access to and remove the rubber plug in the tub which allows filling the diff from above instead of pumping it in under the car. Attached my expensive 1/2" clear tubing to my funnel and fed the tubing thru the plug hole and into the diff filler. 3' is more than enough and will also do the transmission from above, under the hood. Leveled the car, poured the Redline in, took about 1.3 quarts, replaced the fill plug, and voila....done. This weekend its on to the transmission with MT-90.

Never thought I would ever see under $2 a gallon again in my lifetime.... Since I took the picture, it has now gone back up to about $2.24

Thanks Chickenman The 75w90 with the friction modifiers is cheaper - 16.49 / quart on Amazon. Will order 2 quarts Monday.

Since the weather is great here lately, I'm getting ready to change the diff oil in my R200. Redline makes two 75w90 gear oils. One has the additional friction modifiers, and the other (75w90 NS) does not. Since this is not a LSD, I would assume the NS to be the proper choice. Redline's application guide however recommends the regular 75w90 for all the S30 cars. I am guessing overall it probably does not make much difference, but which is right. Is there some reason Redline recommends the regular gear oil?

Best of luck with both of your projects, the 10 month one & the electronic one .... (from another potential digital ECU end user)

Beautiful car Mark, best of luck with it.

Very nice! Now the persimmon car in the background wants a new set of wheels as well....

What about the timing mark on the front pulley? Are you certain it is accurate? I know you did alot of work and replaced the timing set & chain, but I don't think you ever mentioned if you checked the front pulley to see if it had separated which of course would affect the timing accuracy. Mine had slipped & the original owner had the timing retarded by 8 degrees, which produced a corresponding low vacuum reading. When I sold my turbo Z, I kept the boost / vacuum gauge & replaced the clock with it in my 77. I read about 19hg at idle when warmed up. In other (but possibly related) news .... did your replacement head solve your high oil consumption problem?

It's actually not quite a bad as you would think. I purchased an 83 ZX with a seized turbo & drove it for about 5 months before replacing the turbo with a new one. Performance of course was not exactly spectacular but not as bad as I thought it would be. Factor in that your car weighs about 700 or 800 lbs. less than the turbo ZX and it would be even better than I experienced. However, doing a swap with an largely unknown motor would stop me from doing it, & would likely take the advice of those above. Find a way to store it & best of luck...

Any update on your blower swap's performance & its impact on the window fogging issue? I am considering this swap as well to make my AC more efficient.

Price must be because of... "black pleather interior and original paint."

Excellent news... Probably condensation from sitting for a month was a contributing factor to the cloud effect at warm up.

Valve cover looks great! I used stainless allen head bolts from a local fastener supplier when I did mine. Just use a less expensive oil filter like a NAPA gold for the first one. I just assume your going to use a non detergent oil to break it in & change it pretty quick since its a all new rebuilt motor.

Looks beautiful with those velocity stacks & headers! That motor deserves a K&N oil filter after you break it in.

Have not seen it yet. Will see if I can get up there Sunday if time permits.

I am no legal expert, but with the vin and if the seller fills out an Washington Affidavit of Loss Form, assuming there are no liens, the title should be replaceable. Without that, there is no way to legally transfer the car into the new owners name.