S30Driver

Aside from the corrosion factor, the oil is to allow the heat from the cartridge to transfer to the strut tube. Any motor oil will do. If it were me, i would add more than an ounce.

I tend to agree with jonathan, I won't be surprised if it goes past 50k though. The program cars don't come up for sale very often. I hope Jay Leno gets it!

Completed my installation of a fuse block to replace the ageing fusible links. Used the same Mini ANL block that Mike W used in his 260, except purchased the 4 fused output block. One 80A ANL for the alternator feed back, and three 50A for the other circuits were the fuses I used. This model has 2 inputs so I will eventually run another cable from the unused port to a inexpensive 2 output small fuse block without the digital bling for the FI links. The display has 4 led's for the fuse status, and the system volts / current. The display cycles between volts & amps about every 10 seconds and shuts itself off in 90 seconds if there is no circuit activity. A good thing, I was worried it would stay lit up all the time & was getting ready to put a small toggle switch on the ground wire for the display to kill it. Worked out well. Fairly accurate, shows my battery to be 12.9 volts when the car is off. Shows my parking / dash lights are 3 to 4 amps when on.

I would like to know how the brake issue was resolved as well. Guessing the 240 booster. Maybe went with the ZX booster?

Lots of changes, N42 intake instead of the stock N47. The fuel pressure reg. vacuum line connects to the port that is to the right & below the fpr.

Yes, twice I have looked for the elbow but no luck. I think the PO tried a repair (when I got the car the pass door would not even open with the handle or interior release) and did not re-install the elbow. Have been watching craigslist, 2 parts cars just a little too far away so far. May try a yard as well. Thanks for doing the thread on the mod.

Sorry to hear "the valley of doom" has claimed your tensioner. I know your are out of town this weekend, when you return, if you want any assistance, just let me know. Many people make one - the tool pictured is 15 bucks from Amazon.

My driver side lock was never modified, I utilized your mod & it now works great! It was slowly failing from wear on the lock cam. The passenger side lock has never worked since I have owned the car. It is indeed missing the elbow, there is no connection from the lock to the door mechanism. I will also do the modification on that lock when I can find the elbow somewhere.

Up until recently, I occasionally suffered from the classic hot start issue. Since I had both manifolds off to replace the gasket, had my main heatshield plated with chromex, coated the stock exhaust manifold, I have had no problems. And it has been consistently hot here for the last 6 weeks. Stock injectors with Pallnet aluminum rail, stock exhaust, chromex heatshield. FWIW

Thanks Zed, you're right, it is confusing. Maybe when this upgrade is complete, i'll set up a bench test to measure how much dc current it takes before the individual links melt & post the results.

I have decided its time to upgrade the ageing fusible links on my 77 zcar. A week ago, I must have breathed a little too hard on one of the white covers & the plastic top disintegrated. They are about 3 years old, plus one of the mounts has been broken since I have owned the car. Anyway, I ordered the DB Link SFANLFB12DA Strandflex 2-Position Digital Mini ANL Fuse Holder that Mike W used from Amazon to replace the 4 fusible links under the covers. The other 2 for the EFI, I will replace with a smaller 2 fuse unit later. Thanks for that info Mike. It looks like it comes with 1 100 amp fuse. From my research, the 77 car uses 3 red links & 1 black. Does this equate to 3 50 amp fuses & 1 80 amp to replace the links? I also read Fastwoman's excellent write up on her upgrade, but I don't think she included what fuses she ended up going with unless I missed it. She also relayed the headlights, which I will probably do with Dave's harness upgrade as soon as I can source some 280 connectors to adapt his 240 harness so that it is plug and play. I don't want to hack up my wiring unless I have to. Any info or tips is appreciated.

Keep fuel tank close to full to avoid the effects of condensation. Add some Stabil to counteract the ethanol degradation if they are sitting for months or a long time.

Quite the setup. Wonder why he went with green for the valve cover.

During my recent rear 240 bumper project, I had a really nice surprise discovery. When I was dismounting the 280 bumper & freed it from the bumper shocks, I heard a clang on the ground. It was a little metal box with a magnet on the bottom to stick it to the inside of the bumper. All rusted, must have been there a very long time. An old hide-a-key box. Upon opening it, it contained a key with just surface rust on one side. Cleaned up easily with steel wool. Works perfectly on all the locks. Great timing as I was getting ready to replace my main key (I don't use the original Datsun key - its too nice) Who knew!

Hey Zed The elbow attaches to the back of the lock with a small clip. The cam wears with age and the elbow does not turn enough to unlock the door. Becomes worse at lower temps because of more friction. Here is a pix of the elbow from the person who posted the modification...

I check them infrequently, probably once a week.

My driver side door lock has been getting progressively worse at unlocking the door over the past 6 months, so I decided to try the "coat hanger elbow modification." About 1 in every 3 times I had to get in and unlock the door from the rear hatch. Seemed to happen mostly if it was colder outside vs warm. Cannot use the passenger side door for entry as the key lock was missing its elbow that connects to the door latch mechanism since I have had the car. If anyone had one for the passenger side, let me know. Removed the lock on the driver side door, removed the elbow, (which was barely moving with the key turning) carefully drilled the hole for the coat hanger wire, re-installed the lock and voila, no problem with key opening and locking the door. Great fix because it is reversible if I ever put a new lock in the door. Now, I just need to find that elbow for the passenger side...

The big heavy cable running from the starter solenoid to the battery (held on with a nut)... is it on the battery terminal closest to the starter or the one under the inspection cover? It should go the the positive battery terminal. If you don't have the covers for the fusible links, I would invest in them, they are cheap.

Looks like a decent shape 240z dash. Don't know what crack free ones are going for now. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4619952535.html

Always interesting to check in on this thread... Great attention to detail. And nice goody choices!

Glad its figured out & finally running right! And get that fuel pressure gauge replaced to aid in future troubleshooting....

When you did your AFM adjustment ... was the area the wiper travels across in good shape? Did it appear to be un-tampered with from the previous owner - seals intact? About how far, how many teeth was your adjustment?

The broken plastic where the injector clip goes is not causing your problem. Blue's injector connection swap is the way to go to isolate the problem. If you don't have a stethoscope, just use any rigid handy device - a long screwdriver, snowbrush handle, and hold it to your ear. You will hear the injector CLICK when it fires.

For that kind of money, I would rather have the 240 that blakt out resto-modded about 4 years ago and then sold it for around 60K. I think he had well over 100K into it.

Thanks Chas I took the time & carefully drilled out the spot welds. The front - one bolt hole lines up for the new brackets, I had to drill a new hole in the frame on each side for the rear of the bracket. If I remember right, also relocated the horns.