S30Driver

Check & clean the connection at the cylinder head temp sensor, it is on the pass side, between plugs 5 &6. Connector is the same as the injectors. If it is malfunctioning, it will tell the ecu it is cold all the time & send more fuel. Also clean the ecu's 3 connectors (driver side kick panel) with quality contact cleaner & plug and unplug the about 10 times to clean up the contacts. The turbo cars are very sensitive to bad electrical connections. If you have not gone thru all the engine bay connections, efi ignition grounds, I would recommend it.

Been tracking down a intermittant squeak & dull thumping sound from the rear for the last few weeks. Also some vibration under power (there since I got the car but seemed to be getting more pronounced) The sound went away after the car gets up to speed, >30mph and some days seemed worse than others. Took a look at the driveline, checked all the bolts, driveshaft as well, and found a little play in the passenger side half shaft. Pulled it yesterday & discovered alot of play in the inboard u-joint, bearings shot. Had both joints replaced with Neapco joints at Drivelines NW (did a great job, 2 hr turnaround) and refurbed the rest of the shaft myself. Got it back in, went for a drive and the problem is Gone! About and 90% improvement. Very pleased, much smoother & no unusual noises. Will pull & check the driver side shaft tomorrow for peace of mind. Drivelines NW ... Recommended

The turbo cars are the exception, they do not use a cold start valve.

Looks like a very comprehensive list. Only thing I can think of offhand is a quality grade 10.9 stud/nut kit for the intake / exhaust / carb setup.

The unplugged wiring is indeed the fuel pump. You can test it & prime the system without cranking the motor by temporarily unplugging the starter solenoid and turning the key to the start position. You should hear the pump run. Fuel could be a problem if it has been sitting a long time. Take your time checking everything & getting it running .... best of luck!

I agree with changing the fuel hoses, new clamps & filter. You can also try some starting fluid to see if it fires up & will run for a few seconds. Might want to keep a fire extinguisher handy for the initial fireup & until you have confidence everything is checked out and under control.

Aside from a major front end component problem as mentioned above, the alignment is high on the list of suspects from what you describe. One tie rod could be way off. With the steering pointed as straight ahead as you can get it, take a look at the front wheels from directly ahead - does one seem to be angled a little in or out more than the other? Could be many things, including a bent strut or other front end component. My guess is it will need ball joints & tie rods unless those were maintained.

Dave, Terrapin Z gave me a great deal on them. Did alot of prep & cleaning, will probably get them re-chromed this winter. But they are pretty presentable for now.

It is unusually hot in Seattle last few days, just don't fill the tank all the way. Gas really expands whan you park outside in this heat & if the tank is full, forces it out the filler.

Is it possible you overfilled it? What weight gear oil did you use? It is a 4speed & not an automatic, right? I would have drained it & replaced with Redline product, including the diff.

In for 1 mount James

Most likely the oil pressure sender. See if it is leaking oil. Try cleaning the connection while you are there.

To simplify things, get a 280zx 70amp alternator & Dave Irwin's plug adapter which will eliminate the eternal regulator. This is a simple bolt on upgrade many people are running. Replace the battery cables if they are old, clean the fusable link connections, & make sure all main grounds are clean and tight.

I used stainless bolts with a nylon spacer & rubber washers for the bumper ends after chasing the threads with a tap. Tough to get to those bolts inside the fender, but do-able. Nice & solid, finished this morning after picking up the washers etc.

As ZH said, Jegs has them, also Summit Racing. Many people use a liquid filled gauge to prevent vibration damage.

Thank you and a big thanks for the great deal on the bumpers Terrapin! I also cleaned up the back of the bumper & applied POR 15 to keep it from rusting there. It was a fun project with a very satisfying end result.

Did you follow the correct bleed order for the brakes, driver rear, pass rear, pass front, driver front? Sounds like you know what you are doing with the brake system. Are you confident the master was bench bled properly? Pedal should be firm especially with the stainless flex lines. Over on zcar.com , do a search on fart method , a solid way to bleed the master, might be some help to you. Another possibility is the new master is bad, wrong one. I know there was a change in 72 vs the early master, ports were reversed.

Just about finished installing my 240z front bumper, replacing the large & heaviy stock 280z bumper. Just need to pick up some nylon spacers for the bumper end bolts tomorrow from lowes. I retapped the end bolt captive nuts to clean up the threads (they are indeed 6 x 1 metric. Fabricated the new main brackets from 1.5" x 1/8 alluminum stock, drilled & slotted them for a small amount of adjustment, & installed them with new stainless hardware. Drilled 1 new hole for the front of the brackets & utilized the stock rear hole for the back location. Now, on to the back bumper .... even more fun!

It is possible the TPS is bad or poorly adjusted & contributing to your problem. If it is sitting on the idle contacts too long, or those contacts are shorted, it will be telling the ecu to not give the injectors more fuel, hence no power. There is a simple proceedure in the shop manual to adjust it correctly. All you need is a vom to set the 3 contacts, idle, cruise, & wot. As a quick test to see if it is an issue, disconnect its electrical connector temporarily & drive the car. See if the problem improves & report back.

Verify and set the timing with a light, 7 or 8 degrees advanced at idle, warm. Fast idle is controlled by the AAR, maybe it is stuck open or you did not hook up its electrical connection for the heater in it.

If it is an S30 or S130, it will likely be the combination switch. Bet the front parking lights are out as well. Time to refurb it or ... send it to Dave for an expert repair.

In the process of converting my 280 bumpers to 72 240z style. Working on the front one right now. Does anyone know the correct size for the secret little bolt that threads into the bumper ends (thru the body below the headlight area) I did a search on bumper bolts and someone claimed they are 6 x 1.0 , bought 2 stainless ones, they do not thread in, feels like the thread is wrong. Are they special tapered bolts or just standard? If anyone knows or can verify the correct bolt size, let me know.... My car looks different with no bumper

Sure Tyler, sure.... You & Dave just wanted to keep all those trophy's to yourselves! Cut down on the competition! Right in my backyard too. Oh well, back to my 240 bumper project ....

I don't think you will be able to tell the brand of the strut inserts without disassembling the suspension & pulling them out of the tubes. Unless the springs are marked by the mfg, & you can see them with a visual inspection, no way to tell that either, possibly you can take pictures & someone like John C. may be able to id them. You may want to consider the Tokico Illumina's if you replace the cartridges. They are 5 position adjustable & position 1 and 2 will allow you to adjust for a softer ride than the fixed tokico blues or kyb's. Easy to change the setting with just a small slot screwdriver.

Car looks fantastic Steve, best of luck finishing it for the show.... What caught my eye is the T-5 installation, I will be swapping motors soon this summer with the BW T-5 & am curiious about the tranny crossmember for the s30. What is the best route to aquire this, does anyone make them for sale over on hybrid z? I know I will have to shorten the driive shaft & change the rear flange to accomodate the turbo shaft as well.