S30Driver

Congrats on the trophy win Dave!! Wish I could have been there. Wish I would have even known about it. Does that mean Tyler's car took 2'nd place in the classic imports?

Yes you can, some have upgraded to led's for the instruments as well as white face's. The stock lamps are actually clear with rubberized covers on them to change the color. If your zx has the 85mph speedo, another good upgrade is to swap the 130mph speedo from a 79. It was the only year with it & is a direct swap.

If you currently have the analog gauges, stay with them! Trust me ... you don't want the digital instruments - especially the tach. If I remember right, to convert, you would have to change the fuel tank sender & the water temp sender. Can't recall if the harness to the main cluster has to change.

So Z Tyler, any update on fuel consumption ..... or are you still in the category of an out of tune ferrari daytona 365GTB/4 pulling a heavy trailer uphill into a headwind ....

Also removed Z Tyler's dash pot & we took the car for a test drive. Seems to be running smoother & more cosistant thru the rev range. (consumed many krispy kreme donuts & some dr pepper which had no effect on how the car ran ...)

Install the headers yourself or have a local member help you do it. Its a labor intensive job that a shop will charge big $ for. Replace the bolts & studs with new quality hardware (you probably have a couple of broken studs that need to be replaced) & get a new nissan manifold gasket. Then drive it to the muffler shop to have the rest of the system done.

It is an interesting & unique idea, but in the end, I don't think the hassle of fabrication & wiring is worth it. I agree, the zx, gm alt, or even the zspecialties 105amp alt are the way to go, plus they eliminate the external regulator. Does the fan have a thermostat switch that turns it on & off at the proper range?

If the car was sitting a long time, the fuel system will need a good going thru. A good place to start would be a compression test. Check all vacuum lines & boots for leaks. Clean all efi electrical connections under the hood (thease FI cars are very sensitive to voltage drops & sensor feedback to the ecu). Check timing & advance is working in distributor. Verify fuel pressure & how clean gas is going into the filter (disconnect line & let it pump some gas into a suitable container. How many miles on the motor? Post the results & people here can help you narrow down the problem.

If you have to pay for the tow, I'd just go get a brand new battery for it & drive it home. At least you will have a new battery, then troubleshoot the charging problem when you get it home.

A great weekend event with perfect weather. Great turnout with lots of interesting cars to view at a well organized event. Always interesting to see others handywork, talk to them & get ideas for my own mods. Fun drive wirh Dave & Tyler down and back, camping, etc. All 3 cars ran great!

You only need to lower the fuel tank once to pull the passenger side bumper shock. The other area that is a hassle is pulling the rear passenger interior panels to get access to the area you will need to bolt up the passerger side of the bumper (fuel filler area). That you may have to repeat to tighten the bolt when you remount the bumper.

I think the easiest exit is 130 Dave. You will pass Krispy Kreme on the right, take the exit & come back up Tacoma Mall Blvd to it. See ya there ...

Sounds like its running great Dave! I think you made the right decision. Post a pix of the new motor. Do you plan to rebuild the old motor? Makes me want to get my swap from the blue car done even faster now....

Great story, very interesting read.... I'd leave that ecu in there & just look for a good used one as a spare for backup. Best of luck on the road trip. I'll have to test inflate my spare one day and see if it is servicable.

As bad as it was Dave, better now close to home, then half way to Canby in a few weeks .... The rubber freeze plug is a good idea, I may pick one up & put it in the kit with the spare tire for emergencies.

I'll be up for the show, the mini meet, the burger, & to check out Tyler's new bumper. Hope the weather is decent.

Put in all new injector seals / o-rings to cure a small vacuum leak from #1 & 2. Fairly simple job with the Palnet fuel rail. (seals were $4.58, enough for 8 injectors) Also did a Seafoam treatment & installed a fresh set of NGK plugs.

I'm guessing Dave is thinking of Caig DeoxITThe D series is probably right for this application. Can't go wrong with this brand of contact cleaner...

It looks like this .... Unplug the connector, use compressed air to blow out any moisture in both the connectoor & the TPS itself. The connector boot is probably cracked and let the water in. Very common problem.

Very nice car! Beautiiful interior, dash looks perfect. From the stance, looks like it has had some suspension work, already lowered. The 49 olds looks great too.

When you checked all visible connections, did that include the fusible links? If not, pull them one at a time, clean them of any oxidation & replace. Also, a vom plugged into the fuse block while you are driving will allow you to monitor the actual voltage when the problem occurs. Might help to narrow down the intermittant problem.

I realize this is an older thread, I have a question for Andrew (Inf) Did the ball moog ball joints install without any issues? Were both units the same? Just got mine from rock auto, one is identical to yours, the other is the "better" moog joint. I assume there is no difference between L & R ball joints.

The stainless tip on my turbo z was almost as much as your whole system (about $90 with tax) you definitely got a great deal. I have the same questions as Mike, hard to tell from the pictures.

On the 77z, the fuel pump should not be on when the ignition switch is in the run position - unless the engine is running. There is a set of contacts in the afm that activate the fuel pump circuit when the flap rotates 8 degrees, this is part of the safety circuit to stop fuel flow in a crash. It does sound like someone has modified the fuel pump wiring or bypassed the contacts. I agree with SteveJ, you need to verify the fuel pressure with a gauge.

Those look great on there Sean. I went with your same choice on tires, very sticky. The $50 dunlop rebate was a nice bonus as well.