S30Driver

Interesting & entertaining. thanks for posting!

I used the shorter 240 strut insulators on the rear to get the stance right. Those coilovers look like alot more fun though, plus camber adjust. Nice choice Matt!.

Good deal Zed, I am going back for another case of 6. Trying to catch up with Diseazd's inventory...

Regarding the key stuck in the ignition lock assembly, the actual switch is a separate part held onto the back of the lock assembly by two small phillips screws. You can remove the screws, freeing the switch, and leaving the harness connected, you can use a slot screwdriver to operate the switch thru all its positions. You can later follow Mark's excellent suggestion and get the lock tumblers replaced at a competent lock smith (look for an old guy who knows what he is doing). The tumblers wear and the key jams in the lock which is very common. At least you will able to operate the switch and turn the car off in the meantime.

Sarah, I moved the gear reduction starter from one of my turbo cars to the 77z, it fits & works just fine.

For fans of Valvoline VR1, it is currently on sale at NAPA for 4.49 per quart, a very good price. All weights, and price is good until the end of April. (I went with the heavier weight for my trip & summer)

Wow, a remote start button. Learn something everyday on this site ...

Verify that the cable coming from the negative battery terminal does indeed go to the starter bolt that grounds to the engine block. Possibly the starter is seized or jammed or the motor is frozen and the starter is drawing maximum current on start. What does it do when the ignition switch is just in the on or run position? Have you tried to hand turn the motor with a socket on the crank damper to verify it is not seized?

Aside from a fully charged battery carefully connected with the correct polarity, how long has the 260 been sitting? Before you do any more, this thread is strongly recommended... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21063-waking-the-sleeping-beast/ and ... Welcome!

Thanks Geoff for all your help Saturday and being sharp eyed with the potential fuel disaster. Will finish the hot lash tomorrow when I replace my aging crankcase vent hose. Hose is NLA from MSA so will go to NAPA to match it up. I replaced the inlet side of the fuel hose a couple of years ago, I think now I will also replace the return side. (note to self .... even if the hoses under the hood appear to look good, replace them over time) Zed, thanks for the clamp tip, will check on them when ever I am under the hood. Have run either VR1 or Castrol GTX hi mi in the six years since I have owned the car.

A beautiful morning for a nice 30 mile drive down to Emunclaw to meet Geoff & Mark for breakfast. More great conversation, food, fun, & another big thanks to Mark's wife for more of the delicious jam. Geoff brought down his restored intake for his carbs, a gleaming thing of beauty... Headed to Seattle to get my valve seals squared away (heavy weekend traffic, took pix when stopped) Had a little drama at the end of the job with my FI lines to the injectors, fortunately Geoff spotted it ... near disaster averted! (I'll let him give more details of the problem)

The Acura valve cover looks nice as well.

A little more inventory, and he could apply for membership in OPEC ...

The 5 quarts of your oil is enough, the NGK BP6ES plugs are likely perfect for your car. Those are the non resistor version, so you should run resistor wires with them. Many people like NGK's wire set for these cars if you need a new set. You might also want to put a half a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank to dry up any moisture & clean the injectors. Walmart has the best price - about $8.

I would drain the tank & put in fresh fuel, change the oil & filter at a minimum. Do some tasteful updates, but leave it mostly stock. Look for the paint code on sticker just in front of the radiator on passenger side, then you can look up the number for the name. Enjoy your beautiful car...

I love your documentation style, and the thoughtful attention to detail. Oh, and your car is a thing of beauty as well!

Gives me confidence that my upcoming 2400 mile trip should be a piece of cake.

The CAS is located inside the distributor - at the bottom, held in by 3 screws. A 4 pin connector in the module connects to the harness plug thru the base. Just to be clear, is this a NA or turbo car?

Geoff, if you end up going to Lynwood to help out madkaw, let me know if you want me to go with you & lend a hand. Happy to help out.

Looks like it is in eastern WA. Does not have the scarab # listed. http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/4970753251.html

Very nice indeed! Interesting original owner. I wonder if that Bondurant sticker on the left quarter glass has any impact on the leo if he pulls you over for speeding...

Super nice! Enjoy that beautiful Z & welcome.

I'm guessing he means to seal the vulnerable area of led's. Wouldn't it be best just to find & replace the missing lens or the whole assembly?

Good for you David. Great that the parts went to a member on here! He must be the seller that has the RHD conversion parts as well. If I remember right, you are the one that had a 240 parts car a while back that you gave me a great deal on the bumpers from...

Yup. never know what you might find. I saw this 73, nice condition 240z in southern OR last week for 6k. Was actually mulling it over to go down there for half a day and it was gone, sold. Stored in garage since 90's, had mint interior & triple webers. From the pix & description, looked like a 12k car to me. looked alot like the silver car I think Hardway has Saved one picture...