S30Driver

Blue mentioned he would drive over, but he can't get his driveway shoveled in time.

What about the all important CTS? You did not indicate testing that. Also, double check you did not switch the plugs for the CTS & thermotime.....

Hmmm.... It looks like Al Gore's global warming has had no effect on eastern Canada. Reminds me of my days in upstate NY, best of luck with that white stuff Blue.

Just to follow up... Completed the main instrument lighting refresh. Capt. O was right on the money! Thanks again. Dulled the sharp tip of my 00 phillips screwdriver, and the little JIS screw backed right off. While I was in there, besides cleaning things up, I re-routed that trip meter cable under the vent hose so that the speedo can be pulled out more easily in the future. Speedo & tach lighted much, much better, took a quick not so great pix, the cam does not pick up all the lighted dial. Will have the rest of the led bulbs Wed do the small secondary gauges and finish the refresh.

I think rossiz got them done thru this thread last December.... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50576-affordable-chrome-plating-year-end-forum-promotion/?hl=%2Bvintage+%2Bchrome

Wow, nice! Never seen those vents chromed. Be interesting to see how they look on your hood.

Nice, and its the East African Safari version....

Charles, this is from Performance Coatings web site... Chromex ™ Ceramic Exhaust Coating is the most popular kind of coating on the market today. This type of coating (metallic ceramic) is used by more companies and manufacturers than any other material. It is extremely popular on exhaust systems, where the high luster finish provides a very attractive, durable surface. The high temperature characteristics of ceramics have been combined with metallic frits to create a coating that can withstand metal temperatures in excess of 1300° F and provides 5000 hr. salt spray protection. A truly unique coating that is based on a water/solvent system, it may be applied to a variety of surfaces and metals such as exhaust system components, brackets, valve covers, hinges, grills, suspension parts or any metal part that can withstand the 500° F cure temperatures. It polishes to a high luster, stainless/chrome appearance that will not rust, and is especially effective as a hard protective coating for aluminum parts.

If you watch closely when driving aggressively, does it smoke when you back off on the gas, or shift?

Had mine coated with chromex, good for 1300 degrees. No discoloration yet....

Heat shields don't have to be ugly .....

Thanks for the great pictures! Beautiful little hemi motor... If Mr. Leno is there, I hope he does some filming on it.

Thanks for the JIS info Bruce. Very helpful. I found my set of small phillips, PH0, PH00, and PH000 sizes. Hopefully the 000 will work. On the upper bulb, it is to the left of the high beam bulb, & the wires are fairly short. No way to get two hands in there and I didn't think I could release the old bulb from its socket and get the new one in with only one hand. I did get the bottom bulb changed that way, it is to the right of center on the speedo, so easier to reach. Just barely was able to get my big hands in there. Here is the link from the 2012 thread... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45094-speed-o-removal/?hl=+speed

Thanks, Zed Will see if I can find a jeweler slot & give it a try tomorrow when I have more light ....

In the process of refreshing my instrument lighting, have the tach removed, and cannot release the little screw that holds the trip reset cable to the back of the speedometer. Does anyone know what type of head the screw is? Have tried mini phillips, slot, small allen hex, etc. Can't quite see with a flashlight what the screw head is to use the proper tool. Read an older thread where Captain O. indicated that the vent hose could be unplugged to give the trip cable enough length to remove the speedo. I am worried I won't be able to reattach the hose though. Just need to get to the top speedo lighting bulb, got the bottom one replaced with not too much trouble without removing the speedo completely.

Was it doing it prior to the new speedo cable? If so, its probably the 43 year old speedo head itself that needs an overhaul, or replacement.

Geoff, will give you a call this week after work. Jim, be out that way first or second week of May. Look forward to meeting you...

Close to Bentonville, and yes, planning on the Memphis event for 3 days, one of the perks of this move. Thanks Carl. Didn't know about the Branson one, have to try and hit that too ... thanks Bon.

Yes, looks like about 2 months will be moving to NW Arkansas. Not too far from Zup & Superlen.

Yes.... you have a great eye for detail there Cliff.

Nice promo video .... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct5sgZlbocA

Moving in a few months. Some Z & ZX stuff. Maybe some of these parts can help someone out for the cost of shipping. AAR valve (ridiculously priced if you go to buy one) Turbo Coil with Ignitor & Bracket Bumper Guards (from a 71 or 72) Turbo J Pipe Hood Emblem Set of Stock 280 Springs Set of Louver Mount Hinges Pair of ZX Front Bumper Trim, Side Covers 280 Clock The other instruments are ZX Turbo

Nice headers and mod to the heat shield. The small heat shield that protects the pcv hose is important as well. Without it, the hose will get cooked. Had a friend who did that, he put the shield back on.

Found out today that there is a reason why Nissan chose to place heat shields on the exhaust side of the engine compartment. Was doing some routine maintenance & cleaning under the hood and moved a nylon vacuum line I had routed poorly near the heat shield that protects the brake master cylinder area, and .... it crumbled like a 4000 year old scroll from king tuts tomb. Checked the line and it had turned very hard and brittle on the unprotected side of the heat shield closest to the exhaust manifold. On the other side of the heat shield, it was fine. The rubber section of the line was fine. Fortunately, I had coiled some excess & tucked it behind the MC so was able to cut it back & reconnect to the rubber section of the line. I will extend the rubber section so that the nylon line is far enough away on the other side of the heat shield. The nylon line has been in there about 4 years. I always thought that the shield mainly kept the fluid in the MC from cooking, but it probably protects the plastic reservoirs as well. (the nylon vacuum line came with and connects the Autometer Boost / Vacuum gauge that I installed where the clock was) Maybe I will swap in the turbo motor one day to get some use out of the boost side of the vacuum gauge....

Thanks for the update, interested to see what effect the gas has.