S30Driver

Can't go wrong with Exedy, have had 2 of them in my turbo ZX's with no problems. Nissan went up to 240mm in the turbo because of the extra HP & weight. Be sure to have your flywheel re-surfaced if you are keeping it.

For about 30 bucks, why not put in a silicone liquid filled gauge for dampening. This is the one I have, over 5 years, still accurate.

Thanks Jonathan, I may give 918 a try.

Optima Red Top 4 + years

I have done some minor rock chip repair, sanding, POR15 on the front lower valance and bottom of the fenders. My car is 110 red, which is really persimmon - orange, does anyone have experience with the color match from automotivetouchup.com? For 1977, they do not show 110, but they do for the 72 & 73 240. I suppose I could call them. 9

Matt Does a new set of hardware, bolts come with the Fidanza flywheel to prevent embedment of the bolts? Hope your motor gets to you soon.

Ship it to haZmatt in Colorado, the rust repair would be a mornings work for him - like Ed on wheeler dealers. He is waiting on his Rebello motor anyway. Just make sure when you sell it, it goes too a true Z enthusiast so that the car is saved & returns to the road.

I have used both Nissan & Paraut filters. Very high quality, made in japan, and they appear to be the same filter. I get the Paraut's from Autopartswarehouse.com, about $16 currently. Just replaced the filter a month ago, didn't keep it or I would cut it open. Also use Paraut's water pump, high quality & finish, cast impeller (no stamped steel on these babies).

FWIW I just put new wiper refills on original arms (I don't know why, it never rains here) and found NAPA 18" refills. They are NAPA 60-1898 $5.59 for 2 blades in the pack. I had to close the tangs a little where the new blades slide thru the original arm retainers for them to fit securely.

Went to the monthly Caffeine & Gasoline Saturday morning. Huge turnout of cars, probably 200 + Only other S30 was a very clean stock lime 73, very nice.

Really well done! Like reading Road & Track in the 70's ...

Aside from the corrosion factor, the oil is to allow the heat from the cartridge to transfer to the strut tube. Any motor oil will do. If it were me, i would add more than an ounce.

I tend to agree with jonathan, I won't be surprised if it goes past 50k though. The program cars don't come up for sale very often. I hope Jay Leno gets it!

Completed my installation of a fuse block to replace the ageing fusible links. Used the same Mini ANL block that Mike W used in his 260, except purchased the 4 fused output block. One 80A ANL for the alternator feed back, and three 50A for the other circuits were the fuses I used. This model has 2 inputs so I will eventually run another cable from the unused port to a inexpensive 2 output small fuse block without the digital bling for the FI links. The display has 4 led's for the fuse status, and the system volts / current. The display cycles between volts & amps about every 10 seconds and shuts itself off in 90 seconds if there is no circuit activity. A good thing, I was worried it would stay lit up all the time & was getting ready to put a small toggle switch on the ground wire for the display to kill it. Worked out well. Fairly accurate, shows my battery to be 12.9 volts when the car is off. Shows my parking / dash lights are 3 to 4 amps when on.

I would like to know how the brake issue was resolved as well. Guessing the 240 booster. Maybe went with the ZX booster?

Lots of changes, N42 intake instead of the stock N47. The fuel pressure reg. vacuum line connects to the port that is to the right & below the fpr.

Yes, twice I have looked for the elbow but no luck. I think the PO tried a repair (when I got the car the pass door would not even open with the handle or interior release) and did not re-install the elbow. Have been watching craigslist, 2 parts cars just a little too far away so far. May try a yard as well. Thanks for doing the thread on the mod.

Sorry to hear "the valley of doom" has claimed your tensioner. I know your are out of town this weekend, when you return, if you want any assistance, just let me know. Many people make one - the tool pictured is 15 bucks from Amazon.

My driver side lock was never modified, I utilized your mod & it now works great! It was slowly failing from wear on the lock cam. The passenger side lock has never worked since I have owned the car. It is indeed missing the elbow, there is no connection from the lock to the door mechanism. I will also do the modification on that lock when I can find the elbow somewhere.

Up until recently, I occasionally suffered from the classic hot start issue. Since I had both manifolds off to replace the gasket, had my main heatshield plated with chromex, coated the stock exhaust manifold, I have had no problems. And it has been consistently hot here for the last 6 weeks. Stock injectors with Pallnet aluminum rail, stock exhaust, chromex heatshield. FWIW

Thanks Zed, you're right, it is confusing. Maybe when this upgrade is complete, i'll set up a bench test to measure how much dc current it takes before the individual links melt & post the results.

I have decided its time to upgrade the ageing fusible links on my 77 zcar. A week ago, I must have breathed a little too hard on one of the white covers & the plastic top disintegrated. They are about 3 years old, plus one of the mounts has been broken since I have owned the car. Anyway, I ordered the DB Link SFANLFB12DA Strandflex 2-Position Digital Mini ANL Fuse Holder that Mike W used from Amazon to replace the 4 fusible links under the covers. The other 2 for the EFI, I will replace with a smaller 2 fuse unit later. Thanks for that info Mike. It looks like it comes with 1 100 amp fuse. From my research, the 77 car uses 3 red links & 1 black. Does this equate to 3 50 amp fuses & 1 80 amp to replace the links? I also read Fastwoman's excellent write up on her upgrade, but I don't think she included what fuses she ended up going with unless I missed it. She also relayed the headlights, which I will probably do with Dave's harness upgrade as soon as I can source some 280 connectors to adapt his 240 harness so that it is plug and play. I don't want to hack up my wiring unless I have to. Any info or tips is appreciated.

Keep fuel tank close to full to avoid the effects of condensation. Add some Stabil to counteract the ethanol degradation if they are sitting for months or a long time.

Quite the setup. Wonder why he went with green for the valve cover.

During my recent rear 240 bumper project, I had a really nice surprise discovery. When I was dismounting the 280 bumper & freed it from the bumper shocks, I heard a clang on the ground. It was a little metal box with a magnet on the bottom to stick it to the inside of the bumper. All rusted, must have been there a very long time. An old hide-a-key box. Upon opening it, it contained a key with just surface rust on one side. Cleaned up easily with steel wool. Works perfectly on all the locks. Great timing as I was getting ready to replace my main key (I don't use the original Datsun key - its too nice) Who knew!