S30Driver

The seal has a tab at the top that makes a 90 degree bend over the top of the frame about 1 inch. Best to partially remove the window assembly to remove & replace it Dave.

Actually I should have said AAR, aux air regulator. It sits on top of a heating plate with 2 coolant lines going to it and speeds up the idle when the motor is cold.

There are many possibilities, but one thing I would do is connect a vacuum gauge and see what that is doing after cold start vs warm up. As the motor gets heat in it, thing tend to expand and seal up better. I don't think the problem is with the afm or tps. The IAC functionality and throttle body cleanliness and others I would investigate.

The 2400 valve cover is the correct one in the 2nd picture.

The genuine Sanden compressor is smaller, lighter, and far more efficient. Robs less hp to drive it when engaged. Watch out for the Sanden knockoffs. (China) Ordered mine from Vintage Air. Easier mounting than what I did is to purchase the mount kit, which is a steel plate and 2 slotted mounting ears. Those get welded to the plate to line up with the compressor, then bolt it on to the stock location. Downside is adjustment is like the alternator as opposed to the idler pulley adjustment I preferred. Don't forget to replace the air drier before you recharge the system.

Very nice John! Looks just like the tank for a 75 I had done by them, has been in service for 18 months, no issues reported.

Go with the Aisin WPN013, cast impeller, its a very good pump. Its available from Rock Auto or Amazon. About $25

Nice job, buy more if you run into them near that price ....

Out of interest Dave, what did the yard charge for the inspection light?

Originally sunshine yellow from the factory. Sitting outside in a backyard didn't do it any favors... When your in that town John, take a look and see if it has the 2400 valve cover, buy just that for $200 and give him a spare Nissan OHC one of yours. Money in the bank.

Very nice rear spoiler shot ...

For shipping of the tank, I used a wardrobe box from Uhaul and cut down the height to reduce its dimensions. Worked out well, they sent it back in the same box.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08d04/50-2023 The full dash cover is about your only option aside from a place like JustDashes which will cost 10x more plus. The covers fit well as long as proper prep work is done to assure good adhesion. Only other possibility is sourcing a crack free oem dash... (could be tough to find)

John, before you pull the trigger on your fuel tank, consider this place... http://www.gas-tank.com/ Lifetime warranty, had a tank done last year, talked to them on the phone, they were very familiar with the 280 / 240 tanks. They have many locations, I think I sent the one I had done to PA. Worked out great for me. Jim's 2 cents

I agree with all your comments on the headlights. I have the VC3500 set installed for over 2 years now and have been very pleased with them. In addition, they mimic the look of standard sealed beams without the look of lights that came from a mars rover. Although they draw less current, I opted to install a relay harness to preserve the combination switch.

Has some serious vinyl adhesion issues on the strut towers & wheel well areas.

Looks like my parts car has some issues there as well especially on the passenger side.

I have a 78 280 parts car with that section available. I will take a few pictures tomorrow.

I just re-used the six factory shock mount bolts and nuts with some 3M sealant.

If you are using the stock solid non-vented rotor, it looks to be the correct caliper. If you are going with new vented rotors, you need the "W" version of the toyota calipers. W = wide. You just need to finesse the hard line to the new calipers brake line location. Make sure the bleeders are at the top when mounted. One caliper is left, the other right.

Love that diamond vinyl! Looks great! Where did you find that? Your floor does not look too bad. Seen much worse. I think you will be ok with welding in new metal patches. Just make certain to get all the rust.

All the components were replaced with oem at that time. Including the evaporator. Over the years, the compressor developed a seal leak (had to recharge once a year) which motivated me to upgrade to the Sandon and new air dryer of course.

Is the Y pipe at the top of your picture a piece that came with and is part of your non Zstory headers? I don't see the v band flange, so it must be. I assumed you received that piece from Zstory as part of the exhaust line shipment, but if not, looks like it only comes with the headers. This is why I suggested 2 of the increasers to go one Y end at the headers...

On the passenger side of the block, can you see if the oil pressure sender has 2 wires or just one...

Put them at the header, not downstream. I did that with the stock manifold until he gets the 280 downpipe available. My car can't tell the difference... lol