dclamm

Yes they will, interference engine.

The chassis has the VIN engraved, it's on the driver's (left side) under the hood, on the bulkhead/firewall just below where the hood weatherstrip is. Probably hidden behind the hose that goes to the brake vac booster. At least on my 1971, believe same through '78 at least. Can't answer your other questions, but sure someone will chime in...

BTF/PTM, I had the same thing as your #1 last weekend when I adjusted the valves for the first time, unbelievably tight lock nuts. And I too tightened them back to a lesser one hand spec. Can't believe they would come loose with that, but no idea why they were so tight in the first place. Glad to hear I'm not the only one... And I would think if you don't get clicking (loose adjustment) or low compression (tight) the cold adjustment method should be good.

Hello Rick, Dave here. I'm very curious how things were done in Japan back in the late 60's and 70's. Had some experience with my job in the 90's and early 00's but that was afer computerization. Just amazes me, how they could handle a 6x increase in about as many months. With no computers. Maybe was part of the plan, maybe had alot of excess capacity. Must have had an army of analysts and purchasing folk to plan that with vendors. And how'd they get the ore quickly to produce the steel since there's not much of it there on the island? Yes, rather intrigued about how they did things in the "old days". Did you still have to get on a waiting list to get #06289 in mid 1970 (your signature says you are original owner)? Had they filled the backlog by that time? If they didn't ramp up production till late 1970 I would think demand was still outpacing supply even in mid '70. By the way, the opposite of the "ramp up" was eloquently termed the "glide slope" by my management. Guess that's more socially acceptable than the "nose dive". Dave

I believe I read there were about 20,000 series 1 cars produced. My Z was a little over the 10,000th produced, in 9/70, around 12 months after production started. By the time of switch to series 2 in Jan 1971, they made 10,000 more series 1 after mine, in only 4 months. So they really ramped up production in second half of 1970 (10,000 in first 12 months, 10,000 in the next 4 months, three times the volume). Probably by June or July 1970 they realized the had a hit, ordered up the components from the vendors at 60-90 day lead time, so by late 1970 were able to ramp up production volume. So much is dependent on component supplier deliveries, raw materials (i.e. steel plant production, iron ore from Brazil), storms delaying ship voyage, port strikes, etc... production planning is very interesting but alot of headaches! But everyone likes the headaches of a ramp up, it's the ramp downs that really hurt. Don't mean to be meandering or stating the obvious, just remembering the good ole days..

Welcome! You'll find alot of good info here, there's tons of stuff to be found using the search function and if you can't find it there, post a specific question and the knowledgable will chime in. I'm in the midst of going through a recent purchase that sat for 16 years outside in the arid Socal desert. Much worse than I expected. But have found many answers to Qs and frustrations here. So take it from a fellow newcomer, go slow and attend to everything before trying to run or drive it. This link to another thread says it best... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619&highlight=valve+stuck

I recently went through a stuck brake drum on a '71 that sat for 16 years. The tow guy pulled it on the flatbed with a winch and it still didn't break loose. Slid it in my garage and I tapped and pried, finally heated the drum with a propane torch and with a long pry bar was able to move the drum enough to line up the adjuster hole with the adjuster on the wheel cyl. Backed that off and finally was able to remove the drum. The PO had left the parking brake on and the shoes were rusted to the drum, plus the wheel cyl was stuck. There are other threads on here that give more ideas and experiences.

1 70 Toyota Corona MKII 2 72 Toyota Celica ST 3 66 Ford Mustang 4 71 Datsun 240z (series 2) 5 74 Toyota Celica 6 66 MG B 7 73 Datsun 240z (rusty,put to bed) 8 77 VW Rabbit 9 78 VW Scirocco 10 74 Toyota Celica 11 62 Triumph TR4 (zero rust, really, wish I could have kept it) 12 80 Fiat Spider 13 65 MG B (another no rust, sold it to pay for college tuition) 14 71 Toyota Corolla 15 77 Ford LTD (inherited from gramps, driver for awhile) 16 78 VW Scirocco 17 71 Datsun 240z (series 2, got me through college and a few cross country trips) 18 79 Fiat Spider 19 86 Mazda RX7 first year series 2 RX7 sport package 20 66 Ford Bronco Half Cab (first year Bronco, still own, needs to be restored) 21 88 Jeep Cherokee (an extra, lots of 4 wheeling fun) 22 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee 23 94 Toyota Land Cruiser (factory dif locks, still own, daily driver and snow/mountain/tow/4 wheeling vehicle. Will never sell it. 12 MPG ave-doesn't go far often) 24 98 Nissan Pathfinder 25 2004 Acura MDX (wife's car) 26 1971 Datsun 240z (current project) bikes: 1973 Honda TL125 Trials bike 1975 Honda 400FF Supersport Company lease cars of note: 89 Mazda 626 Turbo 4 wheel steer, 91 RX7 Turbo II, '91 Miata, '94 Miata, '96 Miata, '00 Miata, '03 Miata, '04 RX8

Good Luck! You'll have lots of fun. You say Fairlady Z, is it a Japan Market vehicle? Everyone wants to see pics!

Well, ordered the bracket and a few other things at nissanparts.cc. THANK YOU ALL for your input and discussion. FWIW, this is what I ordered, they said these were available at a warehouse 4-10 days: large bracket for plug wire holder, small bracket, Fan Knob, Door lock pull, Radio Face Plate (was really suprised they had such a thing, I have the original antenna switch and it should mount right in, but no radio to fit of course). Having said I ordered it, see if they actually can come up with it!

Thanks Mikez73. Not sure why but had not heard about Nissanparts.cc before. I like to do as much of the research myself as I can, so another good resource (and will likely order that bracket from them). Know what you're saying about good and not so parts guys. I worked for a different Japanese importer in their national parts inventory group, we knew who the good parts guys were (in fact would sometimes try to recruit them to national). I need to find a good Nissan guy close by! Zs-ondabrain, I tried to convince CA DMV it was a '70, but they would have none of it. Not sure if there is a formal process to request a title change for the year (haven't searched this site for it yet either, but will). Thought I might get a 1970 underhood emission sticker from MSA to prove it to them. My title says first sold xx/xx/1971, I told them that was not valid since not a real date.. they said show us the bill of sale with the right date (I don't have.. argh..). I think anyone who knows the early cars will go by production date anyway.. but still wish it was titled as a first year Z.. oh well

Zs-ondabrain, This may be common knowledge but I think I found an easy way (online) to see if a part is NLA from Nissan, if you have the part number. I took the PN for the one bracket I needed, punched it in on the search function on Courtesy Nissan website, and it came back saying it was NLA. I got this message for 22473-N3000: "This part number is no longer available from Nissan North America nation-wide. It is still possible that one or more dealers have it in stock. Please contact us if you have questions!" I'm assuming a Nissan dealer could do a locater search of other dealer's inventory to see if it's sitting on a shelf somewhere, but tells you they can't get it from a Nissan warehouse. I don't have the fiche CD Rom yet, but have been able to find stuff on the XenonS30 online/PDF fiche, though it takes some time. So if you have the PN for the booster rebuild kit, give it a try and it should tell if NLA from Nissan or not, and if is NLA, you'll have to look elsewhere. I haven't gotten through my MC rebuild yet so may find I also need a booster/rebuild in the near future, so would be interested in what you find.

Thanks all, I could fabricate one for the valve cover since I have one of the two and a patern to work off, but the larger one that attaches to the T housing, I'd rather have an OE one, or at least a good idea of what it looks like. Diseazd, I can't find it on the MSA website but will give them a call. Then I'll try Nissan dealer, then used, then fab if all else fails. I'm replacing the therm housing (stripped threads for the cover) so wanted to get the bracket that bolts up with the housing so I can get it all buttoned up... and try to start it for the first time! Thanks again, Dave

Searched many ways for this info and can't find it nor the brackets on any of the popular parts sites. I got the new (4) plastic clips that hold the plug wires and then realized I don't have brackets for two of them. I have the rear bracket thats screws into the valve cover that the three wire clip slides into, but missing the bracket on the valve cover that the 6 wire side-by-side clip slips into, and the last bracket that holds the 6 wire clip (two rows of three) not sure where it mounts to, even after looking at many engine photos. I know the three place floater doesn't need a bracket.. Am I missing something on the parts sites? It's easy to find the plastic clips but can't find the brackets! Thanks! BTW, that little roller we had in Socal wasn't too bad here at least, no jolts, just a slow roller.. but lasted quite a while, kind of like having a #6 and trying to find bed:rolleyes: Praying there is little injury and damage nearer the earthquake center in Mexico.

Motorsport lists them in their online store http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SHC01 I just got the 4 under the hood last week for a '71 (but not the ones that go through the firewall to the heater core). One was braided (the reducer), the rest were not. I think they were all genuine Nissan parts.

MSA has them (but may be replicas, not NOS?). In the $3 range depending on year. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC01K I'm looking for a fan knob for a series 1 if anyone runs into one... MSA doesn't show those.

Original Wheels too! Those ZX (?) wheels might be worth more than the rest of it..

In CA, the plate stays with car "forever" (As long as registered in CA). If the car is sold out of state the CA seller keeps the plates (but I don't think they can be re-registered to another vehicle). CA "blake plate cars" show that they were registered in CA during the time black plates were issued (1960's). The early blue plate cars (six characters starting with three alpha characters) show that they were registered in CA in the late 60's and early 70's. This is my understanding, please correct me if I'm wrong. My early blue plates (six character) neither the blue or the yellow numbering are reflective (at least that I can tell in a dark room, did check with a flashlight). Would like to hear what anyone finds out about restoring these early CA blue plates as mine are pretty faded, though have not tried to polish them out. I would think any deviance in the colors (especially when newly bright and shiny) from a standard CA plate color would stand out to CHP who look at these all day long. Sure Ponch would expect and early blue plate to be a little faded anyway. And the Oregon colors don't look right to me, but I can't tell navy blue socks from black either...

Thanks for the heads up JimmyZ. I think after more research the RockAuto rebuild kit is for the late 71-73, after looking more thouroughly at the Rockauto application # (says for E8725, N4326 etc MC). My MC I believe is E4602 though can't find a PN on it (front brake square reservoir towards front of vehicle). Motorman7 sugested classicgarage.com and it says the rebuild kit is for E4602 MC, so think I'll go that route and see if I cancel RockAuto order.

Ordered the MC major rebuild kit from Rockauto, along with some other needed pieces. They said it was Bendix brand. Hoping for the best, will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the input!

Bought my 9/70 production Series 1 a few weeks ago (it was sitting 16+ years), both front and rear brake reservoirs were empty. Will soon replace rubber hoses at each wheel and clean up rear slaves and front pistons. My jaw dropped after researching MC rebuild kits (N/A) and the price of NOS MC ($300+). Any advice on options? Will be looking for used-good MC on CL and EBay but they could have the same problems. Have not disassembled my MC but not likely the seals are any good after being dry for so long(?). Best option to open the wallet and get a NOS while they are still available? Thanks, this forum is great, I search and lurk much more than post as I'm still figuring out what to do next with the sleepy semi-beauty.

By the way, checked the spare wheel/tire, rim says "Topy 8-70 ,4 1/2.." can't read the rest. Tire is an old looking Bridgestone "Superspeed radial-20", 175sr14 with a stamp of "K7004" on the sidewall. Well worn. Maybe came out of the factory? Did they have 4 1/2" wheels stock? This one now has 7" Western slotted alums. Jack has a picture of a sedan on it, not a Z, refering to the jack points. Maybe not original (but handle, lug wrench and wheel chocks look like what I've seen before). Love trying to piece the history together...

Valves (2) have un-stuck with lots of soaking for a week. Two cylinders low on comp (~90 psi) one that had a stuck valve, one that didn't. Does get oil pressure when cranking over for comp test (guage comes up and oil on cam). One carb has a stuck piston, need to disasemble and clean. Also need to clean fuel tank and replace rubber lines and blow it all out (smells like turpentine in there). Sure wish there was an easy way to tell if 77K or 177K (or 277?). Head is very clean inside and out (may have been redone). No sign of knock noise when hand cranking. Will be going slow so as not to hurt anything. Haven't been able to spend too much time on it yet due to DYI bath remodel and wifey wants the other bathroom back (so do I)!

I've got an early 71 (recent purchase) with probably the original dealer installed A/C. Is there any reason to keep this old R12 system? Can it be converted to 134A and still be effective? Don't even know if it works as I haven't got the engine running yet. My inclination is to take it out... won't be a daily driver.

Forgot to mention in my first post/intro, worked at Motorsport Auto around 84-85. First task they gave me was to dismantle some Z wrecks and stock the parts in the "used parts" section (not sure if they do used anymore). Learned so much by taking them apart! Later worked at Mazda HQ in Product Support/QA dealing with quality issues and vehicle problems. Was there for the Miata Launch in 1989, 20 years after the Z. Part of the job was to drive the crap out of them to see what we could break! Anyway, Cheers, and thanks all for the comments on my first post. Hope I can contribute to others soon. Dave