Gary in NJ

Where do I start? Too many angles. Too many useless creases and surface features. The chopped roof & greenhouse. The lack of outward view. The lack of heritage. And that's just a start. Nissan as a company has lost its way. I have no hope for them to recapture the essence of the 240Z. Why wait...do what I did...buy a BRZ.

Other then the orange coating, those plugs look good. Why do you think you are running rich? I also see you are running BPR5ES-II instead of the BPR8ED-II. Was this to mask a rich condition?

The original problem could have simply been bad/old fuel. Now it could be anything. In my experience, when all else fails, start from scratch. I would suggest a rebuild kit from ZTherapy and the Just SU DVD. Using the DVD as a guide you should be able to get the carbs back to good working condition. If you don't want to buy the DVD, Blue has provided some very good information on rebuilding the SU's. Also, there are hundreds of posts on this forum that discuss rebuilding and correcting problems.

Not true. I set idle, and then I check everything with a fast idle (3,000 rpm). Generally after slow idle is set, any change for fast idle is in the 1/16 to 1/8 turn range.

Blue, One more step to add... 16. Get out Colortune (or similar device) and match the flow based on combustion. Like many on these forums, I've been using a synchrometer for 30 years. And I've always got good results. But a few years back I decided to spend $25 and try a colortune. Now I get great results. From what I understand there are better devices then a colortune as well. The synchrometer gets me 90% there, but matching the combustion puts me right on the money.

I've had batteries in the past that have showed good voltage but lacked any meaningful amperage. I believe it has to do with broken plates at the terminal post. With a broken plate there is no way for the current to make its way through the battery. Since there is no path to ground a charger that has starting capability may not remedy the problem.

What is the condition of the Grose Valves? You might have one that doesn't fully close, allowing an over-rich condition.

I'm amazed at how similar these cars are. In my opinion they share similar lines and profile. But driving them back-to-back reveals that the similarity is more then skin deep. When Nissan/Datsun introduced the 240Z in '69 it was a car without clear/direct competition. There were affordable (but heavy) GT's and muscle cars (Camaro, Mustang, GTO); light-weight convertibles (TR6, Alpha, MGB) and expensive sports cars (911, Corvette). The 240 was able to straddle many elements of all of these cars at a price that was competitive with that of a family car. Fast forward almost 1/2 a century and once again we have heavy GT's and muscle cars (Camaro, Mustang, 370Z, Genesis-Coupe); light-weight convertibles (Miata) and expensive sports cars (911, Corvette...way too many to list). Enter the GT-86 platform, an affordable pure sports car that defines its own market. Shame on Nissan for not finding a way to make a worthy successor to the 240Z. And now the horse has left the barn. If Nissan does re-enter the affordable sports car market, they will be playing catch-up. I can't see them improving on the GT-86 platform...not when they think crap-boxes like the Juke are competitive cars for the youth market. If you have an opportunity to drive the BRZ/FR-S/GT-86, be warned; it's the $25K "free" test drive.

Well I thought I'd conclude my own thread. Today I purchased a BRZ Limited in WR Blue. I just couldn't get past the telepathic steering.

Much cooler then a beat-up Civic. Obviously we think your son is a very cool 17 year old.

Good story...needs photos. It's always great to see a young person get Z sickness.

Quick question...who is pallnet? There is no such user by that name on this forum.

Zombie thread.

Time, UV light and the eye of the painter/mixer all affect color. Your best bet is to bring it to a paint shop so it can be color matched.

When you say it would not crank, do you mean that the starter will not engage? If that is the case I would look towards the fusible link or the ignition switch.

I like your 280Z....it seems to be in very good condition. Nice RX too.

http://www.amazon.com/Empi-Universal-Carburetor-Synchronizer/dp/B0075AW6CI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

It's like buying from Rock Auto, because chances are...you are buying from Rock Auto. Amazon doesn't stock any autoparts (or TV's, cameras, computers, dishware...), they are a subscription sales/search engine. Companies pay Amazon a percentage of the sale as a finders fee.

From day-one the S30 was available with a 5-speed, so with a 5-speed it would be period correct. I just wouldn't be North America period correct.

I think we all miss our first Z. I'd pay dearly to have mine back...but 1985 was a long time ago

I find this funny...looking for fresh advice on a 40 year old car... Anyway, it sounds like a dead short somewhere in the electrical system, possibly in the ammeter itself. I'd get multimeter on that electrical system before driving it again because if its really producing 45A @ 20VDC you are soon to experience exploding battery syndrome.

Almost any aftermarket radio will have a USB/iPod connection. In fact, most now have Bluetooth...no wires required.

How is it that I haven't clicked into this thread until today? Great project and documentation.

I'm kind of partial to 115 myself.