Gary in NJ

Slow to rev makes me think vacuum advance issues. Have you tried disconnecting the vacuum advance to see if there is any difference?

Outstanding. Simply outstanding. Does it drive as good as it looks?

I can't make this meeting. Family vacation.

The bumpers are perfectly integrated, as is the front spoiler. I really like it.

In post number 2 above, Mitchell expressed a desire to purchase the clock directly. Perhaps you should send him a PM before putting the clock on eBay. Members helping members.

I had an Ansa exhaust on my '71 with the stock manifold. It sounded exactly like Dave's 4th clip above (the before restore clip). I loved that exhaust - but I was also 20 years old at the time and enjoyed the "look at me" exhaust. I now have the "standard" exhaust on my '71 and do think it's a little quiet. If I could find an Ansa tip I'd remove the rear muffler and install that...It's true that the more things change the more they stay the same...

I had to change the harmonic balancer on my son's Eclipse. Try as I may, I couldn't budge that 22mm bolt with a breaker bar. So I borrowed a co-workers Craftsman 1/2" Impact Driver. I had my son get in the car and told him to put his foot on the brake. Three seconds later I said "we're done". He asked "is it stuck?". I said "no, it's off - not loose, it's off". How in the wide-wide-world-of-sports did I ever survive without owning an impact driver? That free use of an impact driver is about to cost me several hundreds for a 1/2" driver and socket set. A 3/8" set wont be far behind. When I think back to how many times I've struggled with stuck or hard-to-get at nuts and bolts...

Nothing wrong with a 260Z that a carb swap and a few odds and ends wont fix. I wouldn't pass-up one at a good price.

If your carbs are properly balanced and working well, I'd leave it right where it is. You car will run rich in the higher elevations, but it's just not worth the effort of adjusting/sync'ing your carbs while on vacation (you wouldn't want to lean 'em out at 30') and then have to do it all over again a week or two later.

How does one "stumble upon" a car parked in your garage? Was it buried under old Playboy magazines? How long has it been hiding?

Get your composure before posting again. Your first post was almost unreadable. Welcome to the site and enjoy your ownership of a '70s clasic.

The number of "turns" for the nozzle height has little to do with the factory setting and everything to do with the float height. The factory setting is just a starting point. Are you running the stock airbox?

I have a WC just 10 miles down the road. Just close enough to make it back home to the toilet... Man do I love White Castle.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?4519-Arrrrrr-my-bonnet-doesn-t-open!&highlight=hood%20latch%20cable http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36191-Hood-Release-Pull-Cable-Broke!!&highlight=hood%20latch%20cable http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34026-hood-wont-open&highlight=hood%20latch%20cable

I've had both styles and prefer the "knob" over the "disk". My current '72 has the disk and the locking tabs drove me nuts...right up until the moment I removed them.

A weak battery can show "normal" static voltage (~12.6VDC) but still drop below startable voltage which is around 10VDC. As Jerry mentioned, you need to make sure you do a dynamic voltage test.

1) Warm-up the engine & shut down 2) Attach the timing light as per directions (usually a pick-up for #1 sparkplug plus battery connections) 3) Loosen (no more then a single turn) the locking bolt at the adjustment collar of the distributor 4) Clean the timing mark on the idler pulley (I paint mine white. You can also use a white grease pen) 5) Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose 6) Chock your tires, and start the car 7) Standing on the passenger side of the car, fire the timing gun at the fixed timing mark on the engine block 8) As the light is flashing, take notice of the clean (or white) timing mark. 9) Twist the distributor to achieve the desired setting (Be careful not to drop the timing gun wires into the spinning fan) 10) After you get the desired timing, shut down the engine and tighten and reconnect in reverse order.

All of the round tops share the same linkage. Contact Z Therapy, they might have the parts you seek.

Indeed it is Tim. It's your car, make sure that YOU are happy with it. Who gives a frack what others think.

I've never seen a spambot that can reply with a quote.

Opps...just saw that it's Weber's...forget my useless suggestion.

Floats out of alignment or float valves that are sticking. If nothing else, something to rule out.

If you're only missing fitment by the thickness of the spacer (~1/2") you could always shave 1/4" off the manifold flange and 1/4" off the spacer. What happens when the engine rocks though?

What is the reason for not wanting to sync the carbs yourself? Once the technique is understood it is a very simple procedure - even enjoyable. The DVD that Z-Therapy sells is an excellent self study course. I've been successfully tuning SU's since '84 and I still learned a lot from that DVD. Here are two things I know to be true; 1) most mechanics do not know how (or do not take the time) to properly sync twin CV side-draft carbs, and 2) no one will take the time to get them right except for the person that has to drive the car. With a review or two of the DVD and the hundreds of helpful hands here, you are assured success. Some other food for thought - I always see posts about problems with various electronic ignitions, but not so much on the tractor-tech breaker point ignition. They simply work well because they are...well...simple.

A picture is worth a thousand "holy crap that's a tight fit". If you relocate the fuel filter, you could remove the entire inner fender. This way a 1/2 inch here or there wont really matter.