Gary in NJ

I digging your choke grommet avatar.

That 8C is just awesomeness.

1986 BMW 635CSi; one of the sexiest cars BMW ever produced. Post a photo of that too!

Welcome. Post some photos, past and present.

Opinions will vary on this subject. In my opinion, the SU carbs are far more reliable and easier to maintain then the primitive and somewhat finicky Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection found on the 280Z. I've been on the hunt for a 280Z. When I find the right car, one of my first modifications will be to replace the FI with SU's. I can probably sell the FI system for the cost of freshly rebuilt SU's. Others will think I'm crazy, but I just ENJOY working on SU carbs. Sorting out FI problems is a PIA.

Yes, seal up that firewall. If you can't find the proper grommets, you can simply use RTV Black to create your own seal(s) for the electrical wires. You can't "roll your own" for things like the throttle linkage boot. Also, headers don't really add performance to a stock L24, but they do rust fast and they are louder. The OEM manifold is a good design and scavenges well. If you can find a good deal on an OEM manifold don't hesitate to pick it up.

That's gonna sound awesome. Post a sound clip when it's installed.

Depends whose doing the humming. Can I choose anyone from the boobs thread?

I did, in post #13. I don't see where I was bashing ANYONE. Up to this point all of the posts have been light and cordial; the only way to participate in this type of topic. In fact, I'd have to say that you are the first to bash anyone in this thread. Nice way to say hello noob.

Can I get an Amen?

If you do decide to replace the tach, keep in mind that Datsun used several different wiring schemes over the life of the S30. Know what you need before you buy.

You TYPED Hammer...I READ Hummer. A slightly different vehicle.

LMAO. The Speedo must read in kph. And you had to be going down hill, with a tailwind, on a Tuesday. But I do get your point that the thread is pointless.

Consider converting it to twin SU carbs. Easier to maintain and tune.

I'm starting to smell a troll here.

I replaced mine this summer with parts sourced from MSA. No fitment issues and the parts work. What more could you ask for?

No. This is a very good indication of a failed water pump. The water pump is behind the fan/clutch/pulley. If you remove the fan and pulley the next step is to remove the pump. It should be replaced if the vanes are corroded and/or the bearings are making noise or if you feel the bearings drag.

While the carbs look complete, there were modifications to your throttle linkage and fuel delivery to accommodate the Holly 4bbl. You will need to return those back to the original configuration.

I've ridden several of my sportbikes into the 160's. My brother has a Ferrari F430 that I've driven into the 180's. But the greatest sensation of speed has to be when I fly my RV-6 a scant few feet over the runway at 200+ mph, followed by a vertical climb. Aerobatics - never gets old. I feel stupid just admitting to the above.

Welcome to the forums. First off, your engine doesn't have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. I assume you are referring to the FAN BELT that is attached at the engine crank pulley and drives the water pump and alternator. You may have a second belt that runs the air pump and if installed, the AC compressor. It's possible that your water pump may have seized. It is a very simple bolt-on repair. You can confirm this by rotating the pump flange by hand. It should rotate freely. The part should be available at your local parts store. Same for the fan belt. "The coolant hose running from the radiator back through the firewall" The heater hoses that run through the firewall are attached to the engine, not the radiator. I believe these are generic 5/8" heater hose, no special part numbers. Just cut-off a small piece and bring it to the autoparts store.

A brown cloud on acceleration could very well be a rich condition. A plug reading is your first diagnostic tool in this regard. If the plugs were recently changed, they are perfect for a plug reading. If they are wet or wet-n-black, your mixture is too rich. As you remove the plugs, keep them in order so you can determine which cylinder(s) are running rich and which are lean (yes, you can have both, especially with a 4bbl carb on an L6 engine).

The one on the battery is just an available ground from the battery cable. Nothing missing. The one near the fan...tell me, does your temperature gauge work?

While at a Dairy Queen this summer with my 11 year old son I saw a guy about my age pointing at my car, obviously telling his teenage son something about the car. They approached the car and the two gave it a walk around, the father continuing to point things out. Finally, the two came to me and asked "what year RX-7 is this?" I told them it was a '72 RX-7.

Welcome Christine. Is the RX-8 a daily driver or a weekend car? While I love my Z, I'd much rather drive an RX-8 on a daily basis then a 40 year old classic. A 240/260/280Z have little in the way of creature comforts, things that we expect in modern automobiles. They are awesome cars, but you will be making a sacrifice to drive one as your only car.

, needs everything. If it's been in a garage for 25 years, how bad can the rust be? I bet it's worth a look.