Gary in NJ

I'm starting to smell a troll here.

I replaced mine this summer with parts sourced from MSA. No fitment issues and the parts work. What more could you ask for?

No. This is a very good indication of a failed water pump. The water pump is behind the fan/clutch/pulley. If you remove the fan and pulley the next step is to remove the pump. It should be replaced if the vanes are corroded and/or the bearings are making noise or if you feel the bearings drag.

While the carbs look complete, there were modifications to your throttle linkage and fuel delivery to accommodate the Holly 4bbl. You will need to return those back to the original configuration.

I've ridden several of my sportbikes into the 160's. My brother has a Ferrari F430 that I've driven into the 180's. But the greatest sensation of speed has to be when I fly my RV-6 a scant few feet over the runway at 200+ mph, followed by a vertical climb. Aerobatics - never gets old. I feel stupid just admitting to the above.

Welcome to the forums. First off, your engine doesn't have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. I assume you are referring to the FAN BELT that is attached at the engine crank pulley and drives the water pump and alternator. You may have a second belt that runs the air pump and if installed, the AC compressor. It's possible that your water pump may have seized. It is a very simple bolt-on repair. You can confirm this by rotating the pump flange by hand. It should rotate freely. The part should be available at your local parts store. Same for the fan belt. "The coolant hose running from the radiator back through the firewall" The heater hoses that run through the firewall are attached to the engine, not the radiator. I believe these are generic 5/8" heater hose, no special part numbers. Just cut-off a small piece and bring it to the autoparts store.

A brown cloud on acceleration could very well be a rich condition. A plug reading is your first diagnostic tool in this regard. If the plugs were recently changed, they are perfect for a plug reading. If they are wet or wet-n-black, your mixture is too rich. As you remove the plugs, keep them in order so you can determine which cylinder(s) are running rich and which are lean (yes, you can have both, especially with a 4bbl carb on an L6 engine).

The one on the battery is just an available ground from the battery cable. Nothing missing. The one near the fan...tell me, does your temperature gauge work?

While at a Dairy Queen this summer with my 11 year old son I saw a guy about my age pointing at my car, obviously telling his teenage son something about the car. They approached the car and the two gave it a walk around, the father continuing to point things out. Finally, the two came to me and asked "what year RX-7 is this?" I told them it was a '72 RX-7.

Welcome Christine. Is the RX-8 a daily driver or a weekend car? While I love my Z, I'd much rather drive an RX-8 on a daily basis then a 40 year old classic. A 240/260/280Z have little in the way of creature comforts, things that we expect in modern automobiles. They are awesome cars, but you will be making a sacrifice to drive one as your only car.

, needs everything. If it's been in a garage for 25 years, how bad can the rust be? I bet it's worth a look.

Welcome. While looking through eBay on Saturday I came across this 240 that happens to be in your back yard: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Datsun-240Z-/170597319746?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item27b8648442

Souunds like an problem with the Throttle Opener. What is the condition of the Throttle Opener Servo? There is a vacuum line between the servo and the control line. Is that in place or damaged? The diagram can be found in the Emission Control section of the FSM.

You might find this helpful... 240Z Tune-Up Checklist.xls

I purchased my first car in 1980 ('69 Camaro) at the tender young age of 18. The father of my best friend's advice was; "go to Sears and buy the largest tool kit you can afford, and while you're there get a tach/dwell, timing light and feeler gauges." Up to that point I'd been fixing my own dirtbikes but my friend's father taught me the finer points of automobile maintenance and repair. When I purchased my first 240Z in 1984 I added a few more special tools (like a Unisync). Of all of the dirty jobs out there, a tune-up is the most enjoyable. While it can be self taught, having an experienced wrench "show you the ropes" does take a lot of anxiety out of the process and shortens the learning curve, not to mention it keeps the mistakes to a minimum. There are enough Z owner's in SoCal that you should get a taker to teacher challenge. If not, you can buy me a tick to LAX. I'm DAMN tired of the snow.

BTW, I don't like this part of your post at all. There is no job more satisfying to a vintage car owner then a tune-up. You're missing half of the ownership experience. Surely, there must be a member nearby that would enjoy teaching you the art of the tune-up.

The cap and rotor should be replaced every 12,000 miles. The wires every 12,000 to 24,000. I don't replace the coil until it fails, its not a tune-up item. Not mentioned in your parts list are the points & condenser and spark plugs, both which should be changed every 12,000 miles.

When I was in my late 20's - early 30's I built an airplane - from scratch. I almost never started the project when I viewed it in its entirety. Then a friend of mine gave me similar advice; "don't look at it as one job, but 1,000 little jobs that come together at the end". Anything is possible when you break it down into tasks. Back to the car in question' Spitz17, the seller states that the car has moved with him over the years. It's possible that he has never updated his eBay account info. In any event, it seems like a very interesting project for the right individual.

Check the seller...it might be 26th

Actually, the difference is about 1% (revolution per mile basis), not enough to worry about. I hope you're joking on the ABS question. Next you'll want to know how many airbags are installed, right?

Or want to. I've owned nearly 20 cars in the last 30 years, not one an automatic. The day may be coming soon (as fewer and fewer cars are offered with proper transmissions), but I'll be the last man on earth to go to the dark side. Regarding the swap, as noted above it is an involved process, but it's a bolt-on process with no fabrication. In your favor you can do a part-for-part exchange between the two cars, so you can note what has been removed and/or modified. The 5-speed would be nice to have, but I find the 4-speed in character of the car. Keep in mind, I use the Z for weekend enjoyment, so fuel economy and rpm's at cruise mean little to me.

Cold: Intake 0.0080 in (0.20mm) Exhaust 0.010 in (0.25mm)

It's more then likely the rear seal. Not a big job but it needs to be done correctly otherwise you'll be replacing it again in short order. Do a quick search and you'll find the procedure and also understand how simple it is. As others have mentioned that is a vent, not the PVC valve. I doubt that a maladjusted valve is at all related to to this (but they should be checked and adjusted every 12,000 miles). Are you feeling exhaust or just air coming from the vent? A good way to check is after starting a cold engine. If it is exhaust it would be warm (hot) well before the engine warms up. With that said, I don't see how it could be exhaust. In order for it to be exhaust you'd would have a lot of blow-by from a valve. Of course, that much blow by would have an effect on combustion which would show on your cylinder pressure check. In fact, that cylinder might not even support combustion. Regarding the cylinder pressure check, if the engine runs well don't worry too much about the value. Gauges/instruments vary as do test conditions. The FSM suggests a pressure of 171 to 185 lb/sq-in with a tolerance of 20% between cylinders. A healthy engine is within 5%. What you are looking for is a similar value for all 6 cylinders - which you have. When performing the test the engine must be warm and the throttle must be wide open.

Welcome to the site. I too got Z-fever at age 19, just 9 years earlier then you. From your Avatar it looks like you own a nice looking Z. I wouldn't mind seeing a larger photo.

Global warming, as well as global cooling has been happening for millions of years - thousands of cycles. The sun goes through cycles and, as a result, so does the temperature and weather patterns on our little rock. Let's not turn a thread about how a natural and tragic event has impacted people who can do little about the situation.