Gary in NJ

They don't even make good anchors.

We all speak one language here; Z Welcome to the site. I like learning how our similar cars differ from market to market.

That appears to be an outstanding car. Welcome to the forums.

Do know that the hose that goes from the bottom of the float body to the nozzle is a special piece. It may look like a piece of 1/8" but it is shaped (a has the right amount of flex) for that specific purpose. Once again, Z Therapy has 'em. Cold. Ha! It was 15 here this morning with a high of 26. I will be getting a foot of snow tomorrow and I haven't driven my Z since the first snow fall in November. You don't know cold Sounds like you may be getting close to getting this car sorted out and understood.

I hate to be the sayer of nay... You don't need to remove the carbs to clean them. Once again you may do more harm then good. Do remove the dome tops and clean the piston and chamber. From there you will have good access to the venturi and so-so access to the throttle plate, so hose them down with carb cleaner. Fill the oil chamber with 30 wt oil or ATF. I would also clean the float bowl, but you'll need new gaskets for reassembly. Get a few gaskets from Z Therapy...and while your at it...order their Just SU DVD.

What I'm suggesting is NOT attempting to clean the cam and upper valve train. It can potentially do more harm then good. I would clean the upper valve train if you are willing to plug the return channels and go over the entire head with kerosene. After it is cleaned, everything will have to be hand lubed with assembly lube (I like Lucas Engine Treatment). It's a lot of effort that might not produce a lot of meaningful results. Adjust the valves. If you have any sludge up there, you have a whole other set of problems.

There's not a lot you can clean-up from there, but you can check and adjust the valve lash. Cleaning the valves (or really the head) requires that the head come off the block, the head disassembled, and the guides, ports & seats be resurfaced.

Is there value to what? The car or the parts? Perhaps a description of what you have is in order. Photos help too.

I bought the same car on eBay this year. Same price, $12...plus $12.95 for shipping.

If that gas is 2 or 3 years old it will barely start a paper fire. Drain/siphon the tank and top 'er off with fresh 2011 EPA approved swill.

Welcome. Post photos of your restomod progress. We love pictures.

You have one of those! DAMIT I'm jealous! The firing order above is correct. Know that #1 is the one nearest to the radiator. The order is CCW. People make too much over the oil in the housing. If there's is oil in there, it's good enough to start the car. Pumping the throttle will not introduce much additional fuel, but it will change the amount of vacuum and the airflow. It shouldn't be necessary for a properly functioning engine, but we are not dealing with a properly functioning engine here. So if pumping the throttle works, by all means do it until the issues are sorted out.

How many miles will you drive in a year? Will the car be garaged or parked outside? Do you plan on keeping the car stock or modified? Are we talking about a 240Z or a 280Z? There are so many variables it's almost impossible to answer your question. While something is working one moment, it's not working the next day. When I was looking to purchase an airplane many years ago I asked a similar question of an old timer whose opinion I valued. His answer was "if you are concerned enough to ask, you can't afford it".

Choke should be fully engaged to start a cold engine. Make sure the nozzles are lowering about 3/8" from the bottom of the carb and then return back up to their nominal position when the level is returned. You shouldn't have to move the throttle.

Check the Zcar Registry to see if it's listed there. There were about 150,000 240Z's imported into the USA (another 10,000 in Canada) from '69 through '73 and about +90% of the 240's are gone for good.

Eric, You are more then qualified. Contact Z-Therapy and order their SU Carb DVD. It will teach you everything (and more) you need to know about the SU's. These are stone-simple constant velocity carbs. I've worked on multi-carb set-up on motorcycles for years and these are much easier. Also, while you're ordering stuff from ZT, get: - two carb bowl gaskets because you will at least want to check your float height. - A UniSync to sync the carbs Driving a Z is nice. But once you begin to work on one it really gets into your blood.

Eric, If you pay others to work on your classic car, the costs will eat your lunch. If you have any mechanical ability, take the time to learn to do the simple things like adjusting the carbs, adjusting the valves, setting the points & dwell and the timing. There really is a lot to that old saying, "give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, teach a man to fish and he'll eat for a lifetime".

Now that you've posted photos... Welcome to the forums. Good looking car you have there.

$3,000 for that car, in the NE is would be about right. For a CA car, it's over priced.

Photos?

Proper torque ensures: - That you wont snap/distort the fastener; - The bolt/nut wont come loose; - You'll be able to get the bolt/nut off without undue effort. When I can't use a torque wrench, I have to rely on my experienced arm which has been known to snap bolts & over torque nuts. There have been plenty of times that I've walked a field looking for parts to my tractor or dirtbike. I much prefer the wrench then my experienced arm.

The only Z related item I received was a Datsun cap.

...or cause the car to not even start.

OK, so now you know you have; - a dirty (soot) suction piston - a flaccid spring - a misaligned needle, or - a clogged nozzle, or - a jet with a burr, or - a combination thereof.

Time marches on...but not for our 30/40 year old cars. They a locked in a 1970's time-warp. It's for that reason that "modern" oils do not work well with our engines. The oil companies simply aren't investing in the products we require. It's all about energy conservation now. The closest oil you will find to what was available in the 70's and 80's is Shell Rotella T. I can't believe I just threw the first salvo in an internet oil debate...please forgive me.