Gary in NJ

That's about the best looking $500 Z, er...ZX, I've seen in 25 years. Really.

It's a 280ZX then. Yes, please post photos.

1979 280z?

As Bruce suggests, check for fuel flow at the carb. If you have fuel, double check your float height. If too low you will not get any fuel flow.

Roy, I also think if it was a correct '70 or '71 hatch it would also have the vents in the lower hatch. This car just might be a collection of parts.

Looks like a great driver. Most of the 240's have had some degree of accident repair over their 40-year life; some minor and some major. Most have also had rust repair also of the major and minor category. So here is a car that has has major accident repair but (according to the owner) no rust repair. If the car checks out straight and true, I really wouldn't care for a driver. It would be nice to know why it has a salvage title. It may be a theft recovery or may have had a fire.

I need a photo of the set-up. Try to get a top shot and the side angles. Otherwise we're all just guessing.

No soft-ball disclaimers allowed. Bruce will expose you for who you really are

Yeah, I've been following this tragedy on the news. I heard a story yesterday about a 12 year old boy that choose death so his 10 year old brother could be saved. Just gut wrenching. When mother nature comes barreling down your street; run.

Why are you against having them matched to the body color?

Nissan used two different type markings on the L24's. One is a fixed pointer mounted on the timing cover with O +5 +10 & -5 -10 marked on the harmonic balancer. The other is a O mark on the HB with a scale mounted on the timing cover. Which do you have?

They don't even make good anchors.

We all speak one language here; Z Welcome to the site. I like learning how our similar cars differ from market to market.

That appears to be an outstanding car. Welcome to the forums.

Do know that the hose that goes from the bottom of the float body to the nozzle is a special piece. It may look like a piece of 1/8" but it is shaped (a has the right amount of flex) for that specific purpose. Once again, Z Therapy has 'em. Cold. Ha! It was 15 here this morning with a high of 26. I will be getting a foot of snow tomorrow and I haven't driven my Z since the first snow fall in November. You don't know cold Sounds like you may be getting close to getting this car sorted out and understood.

I hate to be the sayer of nay... You don't need to remove the carbs to clean them. Once again you may do more harm then good. Do remove the dome tops and clean the piston and chamber. From there you will have good access to the venturi and so-so access to the throttle plate, so hose them down with carb cleaner. Fill the oil chamber with 30 wt oil or ATF. I would also clean the float bowl, but you'll need new gaskets for reassembly. Get a few gaskets from Z Therapy...and while your at it...order their Just SU DVD.

What I'm suggesting is NOT attempting to clean the cam and upper valve train. It can potentially do more harm then good. I would clean the upper valve train if you are willing to plug the return channels and go over the entire head with kerosene. After it is cleaned, everything will have to be hand lubed with assembly lube (I like Lucas Engine Treatment). It's a lot of effort that might not produce a lot of meaningful results. Adjust the valves. If you have any sludge up there, you have a whole other set of problems.

There's not a lot you can clean-up from there, but you can check and adjust the valve lash. Cleaning the valves (or really the head) requires that the head come off the block, the head disassembled, and the guides, ports & seats be resurfaced.

Is there value to what? The car or the parts? Perhaps a description of what you have is in order. Photos help too.

I bought the same car on eBay this year. Same price, $12...plus $12.95 for shipping.

If that gas is 2 or 3 years old it will barely start a paper fire. Drain/siphon the tank and top 'er off with fresh 2011 EPA approved swill.

Welcome. Post photos of your restomod progress. We love pictures.

You have one of those! DAMIT I'm jealous! The firing order above is correct. Know that #1 is the one nearest to the radiator. The order is CCW. People make too much over the oil in the housing. If there's is oil in there, it's good enough to start the car. Pumping the throttle will not introduce much additional fuel, but it will change the amount of vacuum and the airflow. It shouldn't be necessary for a properly functioning engine, but we are not dealing with a properly functioning engine here. So if pumping the throttle works, by all means do it until the issues are sorted out.

How many miles will you drive in a year? Will the car be garaged or parked outside? Do you plan on keeping the car stock or modified? Are we talking about a 240Z or a 280Z? There are so many variables it's almost impossible to answer your question. While something is working one moment, it's not working the next day. When I was looking to purchase an airplane many years ago I asked a similar question of an old timer whose opinion I valued. His answer was "if you are concerned enough to ask, you can't afford it".

Choke should be fully engaged to start a cold engine. Make sure the nozzles are lowering about 3/8" from the bottom of the carb and then return back up to their nominal position when the level is returned. You shouldn't have to move the throttle.