Gary in NJ

Most Holley conversions were done by people that simply couldn't figure out the SU's. I'd track down an SU set-up. That would be the best option.

Bad throw out bearing? Does the bearing whine?

Disconnecting the battery is a good idea. With the plugs removed, you wont need much more then a 1/2 drive socket, but the breaker bar will make it easier. I'm at work, so I'm guessing here, but I think it's 35mm. Passenger side. As mentioned above, go to Sears and get a set of metric Crows Feet. Use the lower value on the Torque Wrench because the longer arm of the crows foot wrench requires an off-set value. Simple. Look at the valve and see whats across from it. If it's the exhaust manifold its and exhaust valve. If it's the intake manifold it's an intake valve. It's a "warm" adjustment. Removing the valve cover only takes a few minutes. Take your time, it doesn't have to be hot. Lefty loosie, righty tightie. Lefty loosie, righty tightie. This is the step where a third hand is...well...handy. If you have a helper, have that person hold the adjuster steady as you simultaneously move the feeler (to feel if it's getting tight or loose) and tighten the lock. If you are on your own, watch the feeler as you hold the adjuster and tighten the lock. If it moves up, it just tightened on you and if it sags it went loose. Know this - this is an easy job and when you develop the "feel" for it, it's actually fun. You'll probably do the first few valves over when you finish the job because by the 12th valve you'll have the drill down.

Welcome back. I just sold 11 motorcycles, it's the first time since I was 7 years old that I'm bikeless. The 240Z is the lone toy in my toybox. Hobbies/toys come and go. Glad you found your Z('s) again. BTW, I'm not too far from you near Washington NJ.

Amen Sister!

We've been suffering with E10 for a few years now. You don't need to make any changes to the engine, but you do have to plan how long the fuel will be in your vehicle. E10 has a very short storage life, especially in climates with high humidity. Fuel can go bad in as little as 90 days.

Now there's a horrific mental image if ever there was one. Been there, dented that. Those are the character lines on a cars face that make the vehicle yours.

If it's going to be a daily driver, get the gray car (Touring). The 370 is a great car and a nice addition to your S30.

Nothing better then a free Z. Let us know what you need to get 'er runnin'.

I'm a simple man, so I use a simple test for spark: 1. Remove the plugs from the head; 2. Insert the plugs into the ignition wires 3. Rest the plugs against the head or block (don't hold them, let gravity hold 'em) 4. Have someone crank the engine while you watch the plugs for sparks Works for lawnmowers, motorcycles and yes, even cars.

It snowed a little last night; which means my town put down a LOT of salt and sand. And with that, my Z is officially put away for the winter. But that doesn't mean the fun is over. On the contrary, the fun just begins because I enjoy working on the car as much as I enjoy driving it. On the list for this winter: - Set the float heights as per the 1973 TSB for a '72 240Z; 12mm for the rear and 16mm for the front (they're both 14mm right now); - Paint & install the RT Mount; - Replace Inner Shift Boot; - Investigate and repair non-functioning horn; - Replace some firewall grommets; - Fix right window movement (doesn't lower the last 2 inches); - Send Clock out to ZClocks - Find out where the window washer bottle is leaking and repair/replace I may also remove the carbs and polish 'em up and properly close-off the unused ports on the balance tube.

A solid "thunk" is a good thing. Hopefully you're on your way to trouble-free SU's.

It's done. It's so done that its for sale.

Patcon, I host my photos on Photobucket.com. Welcome to the forums. Even for us long-time Z owners there is a lot of great info on this site.

Good. Go into this as a skeptic and it will payoff. To protect yourself you have to assume the worst of people. If something doesn't feel/sound right, it probably isn't. If you hear something that doesn't ring true, ask some leading questions to see what else is revealed. You may have found a great car, but don't go on the sellers word or by an untrained eye. Have the car inspected by someone (a body guy would be best) you trust. I hope this car turns out to be as good as you hope. They are rare on the east coast. Post pictures. We love photos. BTW, that uncracked dash could be a cover. Take a second look.

My alarm just went off. Paint hides all sins.

8:21PM - Request for help 9:09PM - Insulting Members for not running to your aid Really?

From Wikipedia: "The Classic Car Club of America, maintains that a car must be between 20 and 45 years old to be a classic, while cars over 45 years fall into the Antique Class."

No Short answer, yes. I'd take the time to remove and plug the entire system.

Bruce, doesn't a '73 have the winter/summer flap on the airbox. Assuming that it's connected and properly functioning, that reduce the possibility of carb ice. Steve, have you tried the flap? I know from flying that carb ice can occur in temperatures as high as 80 degrees if there is high humidity. As a SOP, we add carb heat every time we are at 1/4 throttle or less.

That's exactly what I was thinking. A cleaning of the nozzles and perhaps new needles are in order.

The FSM states 5BTDC. For a stock motor I don't think you'd see much benefit from advancing that figure. I also don't think you would break anything if you had it advanced to 10BTDC. How far did you have the timing advanced that you blew a head gasket? That had to be some serious detonation to blow the head gasket. Adjust your timing for drivability, not horsepower. There isn't any magic horsepower hiding in the distributor.

There have been many good suggestions for straightening the flange but I wouldn't attempt any of them without heat applied to the surface. My suggestion is send 'em back for a unit with a straight flange. You paid your money, get what you paid for.

Outstanding. After all is said and done I'm sure you saved over $750 from what the "pros" charge. You'll have a lot more pride in your result then from writing a check.

Problem on both issues. Sounds like an intermittent short in the harness. Track it down before it causes real damage.