Gary in NJ

Welcome dawg, nice looking Z. My 240 rides well on Eibach springs and 225/50-15's. If I were to do it over, I would go to a 225/50-16 because 1) it's closer in height/circumference to the original 195/70-14, and 2) that size tire is readily available in the marketplace. Low profile 15" tires have disappeared.

VIN will not tell you the state of sale.

Try the FSM (www.xenons30.com). Better yet, take them off and get round tops.

Wow, Rich waited 3 years to make his first post. Moreover, your advice is spot-on.

It could be one of many things. I'd get the car on a lift and do a good inspection on the entire suspension.

The Grose Jet is a replacement for the float chamber needle valve. They had a better valve design and were less prone to failure. They are no longer available for our Datsun-licensed SU carbs.

I see that you apologized to Steve, very good. I saw his reply to your post this morning and thought he asked the right question (what car) and gave you good advice about looking in the FSM. Your interpretation of his reply is was far, far, off base. This site is one of the greatest forums I've ever come across for ANY enthusiast group, and I belong to many. This site is truly dedicated to the preservation, information, performance and history of the S30. The members do not suffer fools. More importantly, the members just don't give advice, they educate. We take time to understand a problem so it can be dealt with in an efficient way. We are not customer service for Datsun. If you don't get an intimidate reply or a reply that you like, please understand that we have jobs and lives. Sometimes it is difficult to understand a request based on the information provided. The year of manufacture is important information because the S30's vary so widely between 240/260/280. I always worry about a member to a forum that has a handful of posts, asks a question and then tells a long-time member to go 'eff himself because his fragile ego was bruised. Take time to make friends with the forum members and you to may find this site an invaluable resource.

If the return spring is keeping the rod from extending, I thing you have a bad slave cylinder. When bleeding the system, if you are getting fluid without air, you have a well-bled system.

Please post photos of the install process. I'm sure they wont be plug and play and I would be interested in seeing how much fabrication is required to install them.

Mitchell, Your topic has me thinking; should I check the condition of my return line? Is it safe to run a few pounds of compressed air (say, 20 pounds) through the return line to clear it of any possible obstructions? Any thoughts on this?

Can you tell us the colors on the insulators? With that info we can look at the wiring diagram

If you think you may have a short in the solenoid it may be worth remove the screws and taking a look inside. There should have been a jam-nut on the post to keep it from spinning.

Now THAT is a good looking exhaust. Nice update.

Download the factory service manual for the '73 (resources tab on top) and take a look. xenons30.com

They were the dealer installed sport mirrors. The "objects appear closer" convex mirrors weren't required in the early 70's.

Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection is an "unintelligent" analog system. I'd much rather have the SU's. They are simple and EASY to understand.

Well, by jumping the terminals and getting the starter to turn you've confirmed that the starter is good and the battery has the power to crank the engine. Unfortunately by hooking up the starter with reverse polarity you more then likely have damaged the electrical system. The problem could be the ignition switch, relay and just about anything in between. You're gonna have to get out a multi-meter and start trouble shooting.

There is a wire that comes out of the starter and gets attached to the solenoid. This should be attached to the M terminal (Magnetic). It sounds like you have the wire attached to the B terminal (Battery). If you have it backwards, you have effectively jumped the terminals.

I like your car Jared. Wish I had the money to make an offer that wasn't an insult. The car is worth whatever someone is will to pay. You'll know that figure in short order.

You could have damaged the battery. You didn't get sparks when you put the positive cable on the block? Check your static voltage and the voltage when the engine is cranked. You should have above 12.5 volts static and above 10.0 volts when cranking (second time I gave this advice today). If the voltage is good, it could now be a wiring issue.

The slide-out-in-any-position key is a feature

The positive battery cable goes to the solenoid. You will notice in the top left of the photo the negative battery cable that is attached to the starter and block.

A fully charged battery is not necessarily a healthy battery. A battery can hold a static 12.8V charge, but if it drops below 10.0V with the starter engaged, you will get the clicking you described.

Here's a '72, if it helps.

This is Clayton260Z's car.