Gary in NJ

It's been so long since I've had a Z in the snow (or rain for that matter) that I don't really remember how bad they are in the snow. But there is a voice in the back of my head saying 4 or 5 inches is the practical limit. I was a college student the last time I drove a Z in the snow and I do remember having to ask my roommates for a ride to campus during snow storms. I keep mine out of the wet not because of traction issues, but because I'd like to own it for many years without having to restore it.

Motorman, how did you get tapped for that shot?

I wouldn't miss Moorestown either I live in the NW part of the state where the roads are twisty and people are few-and-far in between. To beat this to death (something I enjoy), to me the basics are fuel, compression & spark - in that order. First I check if each is present, then I check the amount and timing.

Where the heck did you hear that? Welcome to the club. Stick around long enough and you too will have Z-sickness.

Choosing between a 240 or 280 really comes down to a few simple things. On the exterior you have a difference in bumpers and marker/turn/brake lights. On the interior there are some slight differences in materials and layout. The big difference is in the engine compartment and below the body - the drive train. Neither is "better" then the other, but they are different enough that they have a different audience. If you are going to be stuffing big horse power into the car, go with a 280. It's structure is a bit more stout and most importantly, you wont be screwing with a 240

I agree that checking basics is the place to start, but running down electrical problems when the carbs haven't been fully explored is a bit of a reach. It is entirely possible that the electrical problem noted above is coincidental and not causal. But you wont know for sure until "the basics" are checked and confirmed. Start at the beginning, not the middle.

Depends. The earliest of the 260's had a similar front fender as the 240, so there is an indentation for the wrap around bumper. The later 260's had the same bumper as the 280. The doors are plug and play.

That is a good deal. Same tire and size I use too. I wonder how long I can store tires?

A very clean car, no doubt. You got my favorite model of 260 (240 bumbers), a very good find. Given the appearance of the car in those photos, whether the car actually has 42,000 miles or not doesn't really matter, unless you paid a premium for those low miles. I'll be interested in seeing your photos of the car. Yhey may be more telling. The Webers do not require any additional maintenance, however they do require a mechanic that knows them. This is not a vehicle that you can bring to just any local mechanic. Let's throw a line out here: Are there any members in her area that know of (or perhaps are) a good mechanic with experience in Weber carbs? Changing the fluids, checking the hoses and safety equipment is probably a full day's work (5 to 8 hours) for a mechanic. I'd guess that you'd spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $500 as things may/will need to be replaced.

That big monster aircover (I assume you are referring to the orange OEM unit) works VERY well with the SU carbs. You will note that the airhorns are built into the OEM unit. The airbox is not a limiting factor in the induction system. If you are looking for individual air pods I'll be happy to sell you mine.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Z's. I'd have the entire car "gone-over" by a mechanic that knows these 40 year old beasts. Yes, by all means change the fluids and inspect the safety gear such as brakes, tires and suspension components. Also, don't be surprised if the car actually has 142,000 (or more) miles. The odometers in these cars only go to 5 digits. It is not uncommon for dealers to misrepresent the actual miles when they don't know the history of the car. I see it ALL the time on eBay.

Pictures, pictures and more pictures. Welcome and good luck. You'll find this site to be your best restoration tool.

Yeah, Arnie in TX posted a few weeks ago that he bought that heap...er...Fairlady. What's you plan for it?

Well, according to the badge on the front fender (behind the wheel) it's a 240Z. However, the hood has been modified and so have the break components. I'll go out on a limb here and say (judging by the NACA duct on the hood) that the engine has been swapped for a V8 too. Good looking car though. Good luck with your Z addiction.

I've been using Star-Tron to fight the effects of ethanol in my 240Z, my motorcycles and even my tractor. You can find it at Walmart this time of year.

Z Train, I like your car just the way it is. The stripes work well with the coke-bottle shape of your car.

That's a damn good looking car.

The Marshall Tucker Band, Ramblin' On My Mind

With new components, a little drag is normal. As long as you don't have to fight with the wheel to turn it, it should wear in well. Hopefully it will wear in before it wears out.

That really looks great.

Segdoh, Like I said above; 1. Inspect the condition of the spark plugs (post a picture) 2. Check your timing 3. Check your float height (I know you have rebuilt carbs, but the floats can change in shipping) 4. Confirm that the nozzles reseat in the full up position. 5. Reset the mixture screws 6. Check the valve lash Inspecting old plugs for mixture problems can be difficult. He's a good way to check the plugs: Put 6 fresh plugs in the car. Start the engine and take it out for a ride. Take a spark plug wrench with you. When the engine begins to run poorly, pull into a parking lot and remove the plugs for inspection. You might even consider checking them when the engine is running well so you have a reference point for comparison.

Is the number 1 spark plug fuel fouled or oil fouled? If it's neither, you're not getting fuel which could be the result of a tight valve. Time for a compression check and a look at the valve lash.

Nice clean car. Some interior photos would be nice too.

Are we talking carbs or fuel injection here? Like Mitch stated above, the spark plugs are your window to the air:fuel mixture. Start with simple things, like a clean airfilter (yes a dirty airfilter causes the mixture to go rich) and fresh plugs. Make sure that your timing is correct. If you have carbs make sure your floats are at the proper height. Also make sure that your nozzles are returning to their full up position with the choke disengaged. When was the last time you checked the valve lash?

I can't see how the electrical power distribution system (fuseable links) is in any way related to a backfiring problem.