Gary in NJ

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You're in good company Mark.

For what's it worth, my timing marks are on the harmonic balancer, with a fixed pointer on the timing cover. If yours is the same, you can "recreate" the pointer by confirming absolute TDC, and then attach a bent wire across from the zero mark. Or, just purchase the correct part. Timing by ear is much harder then correcting a missing part. In the grand scheme of things, removing the valve cover is a non-event. As a bonus, its an opportunity to check the valve lash.

Opps, I forgot to add that important tidbit. I edited the original post to include that. It arrived packed like it was going to fly on the space shuttle. Thanks for the help.

It's been almost a month since I got my Z. As you can see from the pictures, it's beautiful, but it was barley running. Well today I finished my punch list to get the car right. Here's what I found: 1. The car was only running on one carb. The floats in both carbs were slammed up against the covers. The piston in the rear carb had poor movement. Both carbs were removed, cleaned and adjusted to the correct spec. 2. The valve lash for the intake valves weren't even close to spec (cold). Four were at 0.003, one at 0.004 and one at 0.005. The valve lash for the exhaust were good; three were at 0.009 and the other three were at 0.010. Being that the intakes were so close together, I assume they were set that way. 3. The ignition wires gave a nice light show in the dark. They didn't even match. 4. I checked the dwell prior to changing the points. 26 degrees. 5. Oddly enough, the sparks plugs looked OK. I attribute this to general lack of combustion going on. Without fuel, spark and air, how bad could they look. I changed them anyway, along with a condenser, fuel filter, cap & rotor - all of which looked worn well beyond any reasonable expectation. 5. The car came with two foam pods on the carbs. They looked nice enough but that lacked air horns. The air horns on the stock airbox are part of the venturi and are vital to proper carb performance. Dave (a.k.a Zs-ondabrain) hooked me up with an original airbox - he even included the correct hardware. Thanks Dave. Another problem with the foam pods; there was no place to correctly mount the breather lines from the float bowels, the crank vent or the flow guide valve. 6. I discovered two vacuum leaks from the removal of the air pump system. Those have been properly closed off. After a full run-through, this car now runs perfectly. It now runs as good as it looks. I still need to replace the front crank seal. I was going to do it today, but my shake-down drive turned into a tour of the county. I forget what a pure, honest machine the 240Z is.

It's not that I wouldn't trust a 40 year old spare, but I'd hate to use it. After all, once used it can't be new ever again. I think I might store it in the basement and put a bazooka subwoofer in its place.

I decided to clean the spare tire and the spare tire well (yes, I really did - don't lie, I know you have too). I was looking at the spare and it occurred to me that the rim looked original. That's not that unusual. But then I started looking that the tire and I think this might original as well. What do you think?

I like 'em.

Sounds like a engine timing issue. If you are sure that the distributor was installed with #1 @ TDC, then you may need to look at the engine timing.

I too recently went back to the OEM airbox. The lawnmower pods didn't provide enough flow at low rpm.

I'm going to try and make it as well.

That's the info I'm looking for to put into a second check list for an annual inspection. Thanks.

Opps. I'm 240-centric and gave a 240Z size. Sorry. For what its worth, a 175/78-14 and a 195/70-14 have the exact same overall height.

The OEM tire, 175/78-14 has a total height of ~ 24.75 inches. What you have asked about has a total height of ~ 23.25 inches. The 175's have a sidewall height of 5.37", wile the 205's have a sidewall height of 3.63" - and they're much stiffer. The car ill ride like a skateboard. 215/50-16's will fit well and have an overall height of ~ 24.50 inches. For what it's worth, I'm running 225/50-15 (just under 24 inches). The ride is stiff and the steering is heavy at parking lot speeds, but they do look good.

A little background on me before you think I'm crazy... I've been a pilot since the age of 16. So from an early age the use of check lists has been instituted into anything that I do that is of importance. I've also built and test flown my own (as well as others) aircraft. So developing check-lists and test cards is just something that I do. For example I have an extensive check list for the annual condition inspection on my aircraft. I find it useful and it gives me piece of mind knowing that I haven't forgotten anything. So with that information, I've put together a little engine check list for a tune-up on the 240Z engine. I figured that it might be of use to others so I've attached it here for others to use. I'm also putting together an annual condition inspection check list and could use the input of others. The type of information I'm looking for are: Things to lube Things to inspect Things to replace I will collect the data and put it into a logical flow, and then post it for the benefit of everyone. By posting, you've entered my world of "everything needs a checklist" or what my wife calls my world of crazy Welcome to my world. 240Z Tune-up Check List.pdf

You need to learn the "cover the penis" procedure. If you're not actively wiping something, let the open diaper flap over the 'lil fire hose.

Yeah, definitely a gift. Get the good/serviceable parts that you need out of the beater (like the transmission) and burden it...er...gift it to someone else. But the runner looks like a good candidate for a daily driver and even a restoration. You driver has cancer. Before you try to cut it out, know that it could run much deeper then what you see. If you're looking for a driver, you got it. If you're looking for a project, you got that too. Welcome to the wonderful world of Z's.

Good looking car Chris. Welcome back...we all come back...

A picture is worth a 1,000 words. OK, a few things here. First and foremost, cute baby. Second. The hose from the float bowl to the nozzle is incorrect. It's also pinched on the front carb (4th picture) and that will restrict flow. There is a thin-walled, pre-shaped hose that goes there. It is available from ZT. Third. The "hanging nozzle" is a problem. It could indicate a) the need for grease on the nozzle, or a poor needle/nozzle fit. Use a liberal about of white grease on the nozzle and reinstall it (without the hose attached and choke arm attached). Work it up and down and ensure that it moves freely. Hold it in the up position and ensure that the piston is moving freely. Once you know that you have a good fit, attached the choke arm and run through the movement again. Then attach the fuel hose and do a final run-through. Lastly, What kind of headers are those and do you like them? I'm looking for headers myself, especially ones coated like yours. This is a lot of work, but a lot more fun then an extreme diaper change

Can we get some close up photos of the carbs? I'd like to see the underside, the linkage and any other views you could provide.

The reason I asked about the compression check is it sounds like you've hit the usual suspects on the carbs. A fuel pressure check might be helpful. You may have low pressure at low rpms and the rear carb is the only carb to receive fuel. As rpms increase the fuel pump can deliver enough pressure. You mentioned that you can remove the first 3 plug wires with no effect below 1500 rpm. Have you checked for spark? I assume you have spark if you were able to run a timing light off #1. Fuel, air, compression & spark. A problem with any one and you have a non-runner. The question is which don't you have below 1500 rpm. Check that fuel pressure.

I think its time for a compression check.

Where the base (side) of the carb connects to the manifold. If you have a bad gasket or spacer it will cause a vacuum leak. It seems as though you have covered all of the bases of carburation, so you may need to start looking at other symptoms. I went back to your first post. You say that you can sync the carbs at 1500 rpm, but not at idle. You also mentioned that "the front carb appears to be doing nothing at all." Can you elaborate on this? Do you mean that the engine only appears to be running on the three rear cylinders, or that you can not change the idle on the front carb? Have you checked your linkage to ensure that the idle screw is in fact changing the butterfly opening? Is the engine running smoothly?

Vacuum leak. Is everything properly connected? Are the nozzles moving correctly? Do you have a restricted nozzle or fuel tube? Are the needles seated properly in the slide? Is the based seated against the spacer well? Have you tried spraying the base with carb cleaner (while the engine is running) to see if the idle increases? I'd spray the butterfly as well.

I'm going to replace my front seal this weekend. The FSM is vague on this procedure. I took a look at the job last night and it looks like I need to do the following: 1. Remove radiator 2. Remove fan 3. Loosen pulley nut (put in 1st and engage the e-brake) 4. Remove alternator belt 5. Remove pulley with 6" puller 6. Remove seal 7. Clean surface and install new seal 8. Reassemble A few questions: - What'd I miss? - What is the torque spec for the idler nut? - Should I pack the seal in grease prior to installing? - I don't have a seal driver. What can be used in it's place? - How many beers should I have on hand? Any advice would be appreciated.