Gary in NJ

Like P.T. Barnum said; "there's a sucker born every minute". I will not get into a pissing contest with you about perceived value. I'm disgusted that you went there. I find that comment completely out of character with the members of this forum & club. You act as if your Z swings between your legs. Keep playing with it, child.

Figures never lie, but liars always figure. There is ZERO math manipulation in the figures I presented. Further, manipulation of data is NOT OK...it's disingenuous. Aggregating data is an acceptable way to spot and show trends. I did cite the original figures and also pointed out that the total of the aggregated data was in excess of the total votes cast. Further, you can not HONOR those that developed, tested, produced, owned and have restored S30 cars by owning an overtly modified version and declaring it a better car, a modern car or even a tribute in any way, shape or form. It's a bastard. It's a kit car. It doesn't fit. By definition it is not an S30.

What I'm reading from the poll, a L28 in a 240 is acceptable because it is: A L series Engine A Z Engine A Nissan Engine There isn't a poll question about a bored or stroked engine. I would vote that any L series engine in a S30 is acceptable.

As I type this there have been 58 responses to the poll, with 123 total votes. Clearly, too many exterior changes is a big no-no with 43 or nearly 75% responding. 1/3 of respondents didn't like some type of an engine change, but as a category 62 (more then 100%) votes were cast against any engine change. Having the OEM engine is part of the Z experience. You can think otherwise all you want, but you're just pissin' up a rope.

Edit the sections in Microsoft Movie Maker.

I've been waiting for this for months. Yes, I'll be watching.

OK, that was just down-right mean.

My company went out of business in September of '11. I started work at my new company last week. Yes, I was out of work for 11 months, but I loved every minute of the time. I was financially comfortable for the period (my wife carried most of the load) and our life style wasn't impacted too much (luckily there weren't any medical issues during that time). I started each day going through my careerbuilder/monster/ladders alerts and going through the websites of companies that I identified that I wanted to work. My patience payed off as I got a position with one of the companies I identified making the exact salary I was making with my past employer. I like too look at the experience not as being out of work for 11 months, but as 325 Saturdays. Enjoy and good luck.

Well that's the problem with a basic compression test, I can't tell from the values if it's good or not. All I can infer it that the compression seems to be even across all six cylinders. The slight dip on the number 5 cylinder is of little consequence and within the margin of error in the test itself. Further, you can show "good" compression on that test, yet still have a leak at the head gasket. The water that "fills the void" isn't compressible. Head gaskets just don't leak to the outside world, they also leak into the water jackets. This is what I suspect is happening on your engine. Given that you may have over-reved the engine and floated the valves, I would have the valves inspected to make sure that they are still within spec. Also, when you have the head off the engine look for any places where the valves have made contact with the pistons.

I'd say it looks like coffee, light & sweet. That, coupled with the hi engine temps makes me think head gasket. Can you spot any blow-by at the base of the head? Not to sound like a broken record, but a leak down test would have given you the answer to the basic question; "whats wrong?".

I didn't name the test It's a common name in the aviation industry and I wouldn't be surprised to discover that it was actually a "differential pressure compression test". The only difference between a typical aviation test unit is the test value is given in actual pressure. So a result is recorded as 72/80 (said 72 over 80) as opposed to a 90% value recorded on the leak-down test. It's also easier to run the test on an aircraft as the prop makes for a good place to hold the cylinder at TDC (easier to find too).

A differential compression test (aka leak-down test) compares the pressure retained in a cylinder to a reference pressure. The tool used is one like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html Here's how it works: 1. With a warm engine, place the cylinder to be tested on TDC and mechanically hold that position (car in gear, e-brake engaged, wheels chocked). Disconnect the coil and hold the throttle at WOT (I use a block of wood); 2. Fill the cylinder with a reference pressure (80 psi is typical) 3. Read the cylinder pressure. My gauge shows the actual pressure, most show a percentage. 100% cylinder pressure simply isn't possible. A healthy cylinder will show 80 to 90%. Below 70 to 75% you should investigate the source of the leak. If the air is escaping from: a. the exhaust valves, you have a bent valve, bad valve seat or guide (remove valve cover to investigate further) b. the intake/carb, you have a bent valve, bad valve seat or guide (remove valve cover to investigate further) c. dip-stick or breather, your rings are worn or you have a hole in a piston d. from around the base of the head, your head gasket is blown All six cylinders should have a similar reading. This test provides useful information whereas a simple compression test only tells you the max pressure that a cylinder can make.

If it was blowing white smoke, you may have blown your head gasket. White smoke is the result of coolant being burned. Once again, a differential compression test will tell you where your problem lies.

Run a differential compression check and you will know WHICH valves you have bent.

I don't own a Z so others can go "WOW, UUUUU, AAAHHH"; I own it so I can. Frankly, most car shows don't know where to park a Japanese classic like a Z. My guess is that they'd put some hybred Z or one that was heavily modified with body kits and wings where it belongs; with the other kit cars.

Not according to the poll. Was the Frankenstein monster a human?

Eventually the coating on the elements wears thin. It's best to replace them with an OEM quality (or OEM direct replacement) unit. You'll also find that if one has gone bad, the others are close behind. I just replaced the 4 O2 sensors in my son's Eclipse...at $75 each. But the engine does run better/smoother.

Yes what are the spring specs? Better yet, what did you use?

You probably have a sticky valve. Not unusual for an engine that has sat for so long. It should improve with frequent running. Use a light oil (10w-30) in the engine until it goes away. The compression test you conducted is just about useless. A differential compression test is a true diagnostic tool. This type of test can provide you with information such as which valve may be sticking, if the rings are bad and a host of other useful information.

Does it only happen under load or is it there all of the time? Can you hear it on a train, can you hear it in a plane? (sorry, I just had a Dr. Susses moment)

On Long Island they love salt on their french fries and on their roads. In the early '80's I went to college out in eastern Long Island. In one year my very clean '71 240 developed rust on both rear wheel arches. Someone please rescue that car before evaporates. If the rust is limited to the areas shown it seems like a fair BIN price too.

You should stop flooding this forum with the same post under different topics.

Just a suggestion but when and if you do re-shoot that section, I would post a clip here on this website. Many of us on this site have purchased the DVD and it would be helpful to have the correct footage.

You have to get it on the tip of the cam, otherwise you're just guessing. I've had good success over the years just reaching in through the open window and just giving the key a ever-so-light twist. I do have a bump starter, but I've never really needed it for the Z. You can get it close with the key, and then use a socket to turn it that extra little bit. Make sure the key is in the off position and the coil wire is removed.

Screw driver and a feeler gauge. If you find you're always tight, use the next size larger feeler. If you're always loose, use a smaller one. You must tighten against the feeler otherwise you will get movement.