Gary in NJ

You need to learn the "cover the penis" procedure. If you're not actively wiping something, let the open diaper flap over the 'lil fire hose.

Yeah, definitely a gift. Get the good/serviceable parts that you need out of the beater (like the transmission) and burden it...er...gift it to someone else. But the runner looks like a good candidate for a daily driver and even a restoration. You driver has cancer. Before you try to cut it out, know that it could run much deeper then what you see. If you're looking for a driver, you got it. If you're looking for a project, you got that too. Welcome to the wonderful world of Z's.

Good looking car Chris. Welcome back...we all come back...

A picture is worth a 1,000 words. OK, a few things here. First and foremost, cute baby. Second. The hose from the float bowl to the nozzle is incorrect. It's also pinched on the front carb (4th picture) and that will restrict flow. There is a thin-walled, pre-shaped hose that goes there. It is available from ZT. Third. The "hanging nozzle" is a problem. It could indicate a) the need for grease on the nozzle, or a poor needle/nozzle fit. Use a liberal about of white grease on the nozzle and reinstall it (without the hose attached and choke arm attached). Work it up and down and ensure that it moves freely. Hold it in the up position and ensure that the piston is moving freely. Once you know that you have a good fit, attached the choke arm and run through the movement again. Then attach the fuel hose and do a final run-through. Lastly, What kind of headers are those and do you like them? I'm looking for headers myself, especially ones coated like yours. This is a lot of work, but a lot more fun then an extreme diaper change

Can we get some close up photos of the carbs? I'd like to see the underside, the linkage and any other views you could provide.

The reason I asked about the compression check is it sounds like you've hit the usual suspects on the carbs. A fuel pressure check might be helpful. You may have low pressure at low rpms and the rear carb is the only carb to receive fuel. As rpms increase the fuel pump can deliver enough pressure. You mentioned that you can remove the first 3 plug wires with no effect below 1500 rpm. Have you checked for spark? I assume you have spark if you were able to run a timing light off #1. Fuel, air, compression & spark. A problem with any one and you have a non-runner. The question is which don't you have below 1500 rpm. Check that fuel pressure.

I think its time for a compression check.

Where the base (side) of the carb connects to the manifold. If you have a bad gasket or spacer it will cause a vacuum leak. It seems as though you have covered all of the bases of carburation, so you may need to start looking at other symptoms. I went back to your first post. You say that you can sync the carbs at 1500 rpm, but not at idle. You also mentioned that "the front carb appears to be doing nothing at all." Can you elaborate on this? Do you mean that the engine only appears to be running on the three rear cylinders, or that you can not change the idle on the front carb? Have you checked your linkage to ensure that the idle screw is in fact changing the butterfly opening? Is the engine running smoothly?

Vacuum leak. Is everything properly connected? Are the nozzles moving correctly? Do you have a restricted nozzle or fuel tube? Are the needles seated properly in the slide? Is the based seated against the spacer well? Have you tried spraying the base with carb cleaner (while the engine is running) to see if the idle increases? I'd spray the butterfly as well.

I'm going to replace my front seal this weekend. The FSM is vague on this procedure. I took a look at the job last night and it looks like I need to do the following: 1. Remove radiator 2. Remove fan 3. Loosen pulley nut (put in 1st and engage the e-brake) 4. Remove alternator belt 5. Remove pulley with 6" puller 6. Remove seal 7. Clean surface and install new seal 8. Reassemble A few questions: - What'd I miss? - What is the torque spec for the idler nut? - Should I pack the seal in grease prior to installing? - I don't have a seal driver. What can be used in it's place? - How many beers should I have on hand? Any advice would be appreciated.

That car is fantastic.

I believe the photos do not match the description... "This Set is designed with verticle pleats."

It appears to be in good condition, but neglected (flat tires). Too bad.

Well the good news is that you sorted through the problem. The bad news is that you're rebuilt carbs have an issue. I'm sure Bruce will help you out on this.

14mm is measured from the bottom side of the float cover, to the top of the float. One of my 14mm wrenches has a handle that is exactly 14mm. Check your wrenches, it's nice to have a measuring stick to stick between the float and the cover.

Bingo! The floats can flop around during shipping and should be rechecked.They both should be set for 14mm between the lid and the top of the float. Make sure the float is level with the top as well,

I was thinking vacuum leak too, or perhaps the gasket. Can you try spaying the mounting gasket to see if the rpm increases? If nothing else, it rules out one possibility. Is the linkage assembled correctly?

That's it! How does that connect to the linkage?

The price just went up $100

A restrictive exhaust will reduce high-rpm output, as will fuel starvation and poor ignition. It's best to evaluate on system at a time. If you can confirm that your ignition is operating well at high=rpm, and that your carbs are delivering adequate fuel flow, then the exhaust (knowing that it's 1-1/2 inches) is a good place to look.

Wow, diesel crank and all.

Ever since I owned a Z I wondered what the slot next to the choke lever was intended for. I hate having open slots and switch covers in cars, but I couldn't figure out this one. After 27 years my question was finally answered. I was clicking through Kats' website and noticed his photo of his 240Z with the throttle lever installed. That's a nice little feature, plus it fills an empty slot. Has anyone added the throttle lever to their car? Since it wasn't offered in North America, I doubt that the parts are available, but that doesn't mean that one can't be fashioned.It wouldn't be much of a stretch to get a second choke assembly and simply screen the throttle icon onto it. Does anyone know where on the throttle linkage that cable/rod attaches?

My first 240 had a "feature" that I always thought was cool. I could remove the ignition key while the vehicle was running and it would still run. Yes, I could just pull the key straight out. I always found this useful if I needed to unlock the hatch or running in to a store on a cold day. The Z I have now doesn't allow this. It got me thinking; was my '71 ignition set just broken? If so, I liked it better broken.

Very cool. It's always fun making the transition from mechanic back to driver - if only short lived.

Looks more like a George Barris movie creation then a 240Z.