Esc8p2NeverLand

As d240za2 said, keep a rag over the distributor to keep anything foreign from falling in. Buy a good drill out bolt extractor- Sears has a variety of them usually on sale. Use a drill with a light hand to keep the speed low and use some machine oil as well. Good luck!

You sir, are correct about the ignition! (Night) + (Pre-workout energy drink) x (frustration) = not a thorough enough inspection of all wires. I missed one little wire underneath the ProMaster ignition- the positive lead to the ballast resistor. I felt like such a dope (yet relieved) after hooking that little wire back and the car firing up so beautifully. Thank you random Z guy whom stopped and helped me test fuel pressure throughout my entire system at 11 at night while I was stranded on the side of the road!

Well I finally got the carbs synched and running great- the car just died on me! Info on the car: L24 Tripple Weber 45 DCOE - 36mm chockes - 145 mains - 195 air Mallory Unilite/ pro master Electric Fuel Pump FPR set at 3.5 psi ____________________________ I was driving and the car just died. I pulled over and tried cranking it. It turned over and didn't sound like any battery problems. I gassed it and then it would rev up really quickly and then die. I could not get it to idle at all- just rev and then die. I checked the fuel pressure and it read 3-4 psi. I disconnected the hose after the electric fuel pump to make sure fuel was coming out while cranking it and it did just fine (looks to not be a clogged fuel line or filter) HELP!

Thanks all for the input. As far as tuning, I'm just looking to have some sort of air horn. It seems that everyone recommends one rather than just a k&n filter (which the previous owner only had). For it holding the aux venturi, my weber 45 dcoe seem to have two bolts underneath securing possibly both venturis? I need to take them off to get a better look. Can anyone chime in on that?

I've been looking for velocity stacks now and was recommended pierce manifolds. They have two styles available with two very different prices. What are the pros and cons of flange mount versus the insert type? The one that mounts outside is almost half the price. Flange Mount Insert Mount Thanks!

Exactly what I needed. Thanks a million!

I have 170 correctors. I'll trade you for your 200s! PMEd you.

It does have a heat shield (previous owner made it), but I'll try wrapping the header. Thanks!

I cleaned the carbs with cleaner and reset the linkages. Seems to have helped some bit. A good amount of "brown" came out of them. No it'll hold idle fine, but I still get inconsistent idle rpm readings. At first it'll sit nicely at 700 rpm, but after driving it'll idle at 1000-1100. And then when I get into traffic it'll get back down to around 700-900 rpm. Maybe I need to clean them some more.

No choke cable. I'll check the fuel pressure regulator this weekend and put a gauge in to monitor it. No screens on the inlet.

Thanks, Z-Luke, I'll give your suggestions a try this weekend and see what comes of it

I'm reposting this in here out of the "Help Me" section in hopes to get some more responses. So now something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Also after some time driving trying to figure this out, the idle still draws to a stall and will have a hard time regulating the idle unless I manually press the throttle lever on the carbs. -Idle at 850 rpm. It drops to about 650-700 rpm with lights, fan, and radio on. -Idle screw down 3/32 of a turn past touching -Mixture screws set to 1 1/4 turn out all the way across For reference the carbs are: 45 DCOE 36mm choke 155 Main Jets 170 Corrector Jets 55 F8 Idle Jets F16 Emulsion tubes On my previous tune last where I microtuned with the ColorTune Tool for the mixture I got for the turns out #1- 1 1/4 #2- 1/1/4 #3- 3/4 #4- 1/1/4 #5- 3/4 #6- 3/4 Please HELP! Thanks Tyler

Also after some time driving trying to figure this out, the idle still draws to a stall and will have a hard time regulating the idle unless I manually press the throttle lever on the carbs.

So now something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Any ideas?

EScanlon, thank you! Very informative. I'll be doing everything you said.

Bringing an old thread back to life. Those of you who made a new drain for the cowl, is it because you were experiencing leaking? Reason being is I'm getting water in from under the dash. I checked the windshield and it looks to be sealed well. Thanks! Tyler

So after getting really frustrated, I just rechecked, retightened, retuned my carbs. I Pulled vacuum lines off, pushed them back on tightly and ziptied them. I redid the arms on the linkage. I retuned the idle mixture and idle. Here's what I got. -Idle at 850 rpm. It drops to about 650-700 rpm with lights, fan, and radio on. -Idle screw down 3/32 of a turn past touching -Mixture screws set to 1 1/4 turn out all the way across For reference the carbs are: 45 DCOE 36mm choke 155 Main Jets 170 Corrector Jets 55 F8 Idle Jets F16 Emulsion tubes On my previous tune last night where I microtuned with the ColorTune Tool for the mixture I got for the turns out #1- 1 1/4 #2- 1/1/4 #3- 3/4 #4- 1/1/4 #5- 3/4 #6- 3/4 The car drove wonderfully, but I could not hold an idle at stop. Maybe due to incorrect jet sizing? Let's hope the idle holds fine tomorrow! Tyler

I haven't had a chance to test vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, but I did a visual inspection and nothing seems out of place and in need of repair. NOW I CAN'T GET THE DAMN THING TO IDLE. I have to set the idle high to about 1500 and it'll run for about 5 minutes then it'll just drop off and flat out die. So frustrated! I tried readjusting the throttle linkage. I took the arms off and tried them at three different spots. Originally it was hooked up to the middle hole on the lever.

I'm new to z-cars so please forgive me if this is a normal thing for them- When driving at night and the car is at idle, the lights dim quite a bit, but when revved the lights brighten up again. Could this be a cause? Maybe bad battery or alternator?

Thanks for all the replies. I'll try them out today and report back! Tyler

Yup and it just does the same thing.

'72 240z- triple 45 dcoe weber carbs Hi, I have a problem with my idle. When the car is warmed up and sitting and idling it holds at about 500 rpm just fine, but sometimes when I drive it and come to a stop it'll slowly stumble to about 300 rpm and then die on me. I'm not too sure that's going on. Help! Thanks Tyler

Wow! Very detailed to say the least. Thank you for doing this. Tyler

Well I tried installing a relay for my starter today with no luck. I followed the directions I found on the forum. 87: 20A fused line from (+) 85: (-) 86: ignition switch wire on solenoid 30: To signal wire (original wire that went to solenoid I tried three different relays just in case; Ebay no name, DEI, and Bosch. I checked voltages and was getting fine readings. I disconnected everything and reconnected the signal wire back to the solenoid to see if the starter still worked. Worked just fine. I'm not sure if this could have anything to do with it, but I installed a new starter switch and noticed the previous owner did not connect the two wires from the switch. He just had it plugged into the socket. So I did the same. I'm not sure if there is a reason he did that. Maybe has something to do with the electric fuel pump or Mallory ignition? No idea. Thanks for reading! Tyler

I say get rid of it! By the way, I may know someone who'd like to buy the parts off of you.