Namerow

The 'B' transmission's design places the base of the shift lever further forward relative to the front face of the bellhousing, resulting in a number of complications when a B unit is installed in a car that was designed for the A unit... - Base of shift lever hits the front edge of the cutout in the transmission tunnel when 1st or 3rd is selected. - Shifter knob comes too close to the HVAC fascia when 1st or 3rd is selected. I'm curious to know how this issue was handled by the dealer who did the B-for-A transmission swap in your car. p.s. I like the wood cradle that you built to support the car. I know of another Z owner who built a rotisserie from wood.

Mounting studs and hardware should be stainless steel. Too bad the same can't be done for the screws that fasten the lens to the housing.

A dry cleaner's bag works well for this purpose. Also: The seatback upholstery is easier to install if you do the job outside in direct, afternoon sunlight (solar heating helps to soften the vinyl).

I agree... although baby-boom demographics will probably keep the torch burning for at least another 5 years.

Thanks for taking the time to create and post these photos. Maybe I'm just getting old*, but Photo #2 is confusing. Did the rubber really sit under the weatherstrip before both were pushed down over the inch strip? Looking at the photo, it seems hard to believe that the weatherstrip would be capable of generating enough clamping force. (* I plead guilty, as I'm sure many others will, of just pulling the rotted old stuff off without giving much thought to how it actually worked.)

It would be fascinating to see a video showing how the rear glass was installed at the factory back in the day.

If only the SU's designer had included an external adjustment screw for setting the float level.

It's a Velcro strip that helps hold the spare wheel cover (pressboard) in place.

I wonder if it's similar to this dental sandblasting unit?... https://www.vaniman.com/product/sandstorm-mobile-io-80141/ US$540 - ships from manufacturer in California

Let's be careful here. Jalex posted a photo of the choke cable for one carb, illustrating two cable screws: the #1 screw (upper screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable's outer casing to the carb; the #2 screw (bottom screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable wire to the choke cable linkage. The way I read it, he was asking whether he should loosen both the #1 and #2 screws on both carbs (which, of course, would lead to brand new problems). So, JAlex: If you're reading this, when Mark Maras tells you to loosen 'both screws', he means that you should loosen the #2 screw on both the front and rear carbs. Do not loosen the #1 screw.

Great write-up and photo coverage. As someone who also lives in the north-east, it's great to see a project like this that looks 'real' in relation to my own experience (rotted wood, old timber, uneven concrete, dirt, and leaves). Hope you enjoy your upgraded workspace. Epoxied floors?

There are two hammers visible in photo #4. The one on the left would normally qualify as a 'BFH', but it looks puny when compared to the one on the right. That one appears to be a shaped piece of concrete with a handle. Did you make it yourself?

Nice to be able to check off three items on three different cars, all in one day!

That same storm dropped over 4" of rain in Toronto.

Can anyone recommend a product that would be a reliable, long-term solution for sealing a cracked gas filler neck? The vehicle in question is my friend's 10-year-old Hyundai Elantra.

Fabricating coil springs is pretty easy. Find a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and use that as your former. Chuck it in your bench vise -- horizontally or vertically, whichever makes the wire-winding process easiest. You can use ordinary, hardware-store wire for the job (stainless steel preferably). Wrap the required number of coils around your former. Make sure you leave enough extra at the starting end to be able to form the bent-over tang afterwards. There's a bit of trial and error involved in finding the right drill bit diameter so that you end up with the desired coil diameter after you complete the wrap. It may help to temper the wire after you've got it fully formed -- but I suspect that it won't be necessary for the lock springs. As an example, the spring that I fabbed for the lid of my 70 Z's ashtray didn't need tempering.

I wonder, perhaps, whether you could fabricate a metal stiffener (tubing? U-channel?) and glue it to the underside of the lip. You'd probably need to use countersunk sheet metal screws (or flush-fitting pop rivets?) to pull the urethane lip down onto the stiffener. They might need to be permanent. I don't think the glue bond would hold up over the long term without some mechanical assistance.

While I'm at it, here's my edit of the mini-schematic for the Combination Switch, corrected to reflect what I found in the actual layout of the wiring and contacts in the Combination Switch installed in my 4/70 car. I started with the mini-schematic that was part of large wiring diagram included with my car's Owners Manual ("20-Mar-1970 - 030300 - OM0E-0S30U2") and then made corrections... Note on the left side of the diagram that I have two columns of wiring colours: The left column indicates the colour of the wiring on the vehicle side of the Combo Switch connector. The right column indicates the colour of the wiring on the Switch side of the connector. 'SPD' = spade-type wiring connector 'BLT' = bullet-style wiring connector

Several years ago, I worked with your #2 schematic ("Datsun Factory Parts are fully warranted to give utmost satisfaction") and then added editing comments, using the wiring, connections, and devices in my car (unmolested 4/70 240Z) as my primary guide. See attachment #1. Back in 2015, CZCC member @EuroDat (Chas) did a beautiful job of creating a full-colour wiring schematic based on the specs for MY-1970 USA-Cda cars (see attachment #2). It addresses most of the issues that I identified in my own review. S30 Wiring Schematic - 70 240Z - B&W - 70 Owners Manual - Comments added for errors 7.pdf S30 Wiring Schematic - 70 240Z - Colour - Eurodat.pdf

Second that. Not an easy job: 1/3 educator, 1/3 keeper-of-order, 1/3 entertainer. Made all the more challenging in this modern era of cell phone and texting distractions.

That's going to be a great looking car when you get it done and out on the street. Keep up the good work.

I thought that Series 2 didn't start until VIN 046000. That said, this one seems to be a mix of S1 and S2... Series 1 equipment includes: Type A transmission, with matching console; brake m/cylinder has large reservoir at the front. Series 2 equipment includes: Storage bins built into rear floor; no air extractor vents in hatch panel; horizontal defroster grid in rear glass.

Agree. Those weld failure numbers appear to be premised on the joining of thick panels ('plate'), where lateral alignment of the joined edges isn't terribly critical. For thin automotive sheet metal, it will be difficult to achieve good panel alignment along the entire length of the seam. Even a brief segment with poor alignment will become the weak point that invites failure. There's also the potential for low-level burn-through, again resulting in weak point(s). Those published failure numbers are also premised on a steady separation load ('pull'). The weld in the shock tower will be taking variable loads (combination of spring load and shock absorber loads) that include the potential for big peaks if/when the spring bottoms out (the load curve will be high-amplitude and brief in duration, so quite demanding for the structure).

MZR offers three different models. The 'Sport Design' is simply a restored and upgraded/hot-rodded Z (albeit, done with industrial-grade processes and attention to detail). The exterior panels are OE and steel. The 'Evolution' and 'MZR 50th Anniversary' models use what MZR describes as "a lightweight carbon composite exoskeleton". It looks like this 'exoskeleton' consists of all of the external panels except for the roof (the rear quarter panels do not appear to be OE in shape). It looks like everything underneath is just a well-restored Z monocoque. The rear quarter panels and the rear-end panels would probably qualify as being 'bonded' to the steel structure. I suspect that the steel door shells and the steel hatch frame are retained, with carbon fibre outer panels bonded in place. If you were to purchase the steel versions of all of those exterior panels, it would cost ~ US$6,000 (plus shipping, duties, and taxes). In carbon fibre, they'd probably cost triple that amount (or more).

When assessing the dash wiring harness options, watch out for the Combination Switch. According to my records, the design was changed starting in Oct-1971 to accommodate Nissan's parallel decision to change the headlight switching strategy from ground-switched to positive-switched. Note also that the fuse block's wiring harness changed from from 'long pigtail' to 'short pigtail' at the end of Jan-1971. I expect that the dash wiring harness would need to have been changed to match. What transmission does Lily have - 'Type A'? or 'Type B'? p.s. Congrats on your daughter's wedding.