Namerow

From Wick Humble's standard reference, 'How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car'" "On ISO fasteners, the grade is indicated by its number - 4, 5, 9 and so forth - on the bolt head. But this doesn't mean that a bolt marked 5 is equivalent to SAE Grade 5. Unfortunately, the ISO number indicates a torque capacity lower than the SAE number -- a negative safety margin if you mix them up. For instance, the ISO Grade 7 is the equivalent to approximately an SAE Grade 5 -- for a 14mm bolt, Nissan's torque spec on this bolt is 56-76 lb-ft. ISO Grade 9, the highest number I've found on any Z-car bolt, is torqued 80-108 lb-ft if it's a 14mm bolt. At the other end of the spectrum, anything ISO Grade 4 -- as are many of the 10mm Phillips head bolts found on a Z -- is comparable to unmarked 'hardware-store' grade bolts. |That means they could conceivably be snapped off with an overenthusiastic twist on a Phillips screwdriver."

Yes. OE core is gloss black. Same for my 05/70

Interesting. Two questions: Who is your plater in Toronto? In rough numbers, how much do you think you'll have spent when you get done with all your hardware plating? (Sorry, but I have to ask)

I took my dash out of the car ('70 Z) last year to do repairs to the cracked cap. As part of the process, I removed the dash wiring harness and have now finished giving it a general clean-up (which included cleaning all the connectors and spiffing up all of the metal contact surfaces for the electrical terminals -- male connectors sanded, female connectors treated with De-Oxit). All the gauge bulbs have been replaced. Also: The harness looks to be in good shape and unmolested. No visual signs of melt-downs. The fuse block has been replaced with a NOS unit (the original had the typical burnt circuit) All the gauges have been cleaned up and the meter movements bench-checked for proper operation (excepting the Tach and Speedo). The Combination Switch, T/S Switch, and Hazard Switch have all been stripped and internal contacts cleaned, per write-ups posted on the CZCC site by others. The switches and gauges could all be conveniently connected up to the dash harness as it sits on my workbench. The metal dash armature (frame) would seem to provide the common ground circuit -- just as it does when the dash is installed in the car. I bought this car in good, but non-running condition. It has relatively low miles on the odometer. Before putting the harness back in the dash and putting the dash back in the car, though, it seems like it would be a good idea to do some checks for electrical continuity and possible shorts (I don't ever want to see the underside of the dash again if I can help it). So here's my question: Can anyone suggest a resource for how to carry out a systemic check of the harness wiring/circuits? There seem to be infinite ways of going about this and I would prefer to avoid re-inventing the wheel if someone has a plan or strategy for how these checks can be done in an efficient way. Note 1 - I have a color-keyed wiring diagram for the 70 Z, created by someone named Sully Ridout (CSCC member?). It seems to be accurate enough (excepting a little confusion over the correct pairings of the four aux gauges -- something which even the factory diagram got wrong). Note 2 - The Ignition Switch is still in the car -- although I could remove it and bring it into the workshop if that would make system checks easier/faster/more accurate.

I've built a DIY zinc plating setup similar to the ones discussed in the Factory Five link. Used zinc-strip roofing peak strip called 'Moss Boss' (available on special order from Home Hardware and costs ~ Cdn $30... comes in a 50' roll, ~ 4" wide and has the same consistency as ultra-thick aluminum foil). I used a big Home Depot white plastic pail for the tub. I built a stack of 4 rings of the zinc foil to create a full-depth liner for the pail (rings were stapled to two wood strips at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions to provide some support, with a bare copper wire then stapled on top to electrically link the rings). I used a thin wood strip (half-round dowel) sitting across the top of the pail as the parts support. The wood strip has a length of copper wire stapled across the length its top surface. The parts are hung in the electrolyte bath using lengths of copper wire with hooks bent at each end. The top hook makes contact with the copper wire on the wood strip. Vinegar and epsom salts for the electrolyte. The sugar is optional, and is supposed to act as a brightener (most people seems to find that it doesn't really do much). My power supply came from my selection of left-over appliance wall packs. You really need to put both a voltmeter sand an ammeter into the circuit to be able to get a sense of what's going on. I bought two cheapo multimeters for this purpose @ $10 each. I've just started experimenting with this set-up. Plating process is fast ( ~ 5 minutes). The results look promising, but I need to fine-tune a bit. Too much power creates a really granular coating. Too little power = no visible coating at all. It's preferable to put a rheostat controller into the power circuit, but I haven't found one yet with an adequate power rating. As you will see from other write-ups, the plating process is directional (line-of-sight), so getting proper coating coverage for shielded areas of the part can be challenging (I've been working with the Z's tailgate latch as my test piece). Still, the end effect is pleasing (shiny silver), even if it lacks the rainbow appearance of the factory, cad plating. Bead blast the part(s) for a start. Wire wheel, if you want. Acid dip (muriatic should be adequate) to etch the surface a bit. Then clean in two steps: degreaser (I use acetone), followed by demineralized water. Warning: If you try this approach, do not leave your zinc foil in the electrolyte bath between plating sessions. It dissolves!

Two options (that I know of): 1. Eiko A-72-BP. These have the same 'BA9S' base and 'G3-1/2' globe as the original bulbs, but are rated at 4W output (compared to 3.4W for the original Japanese 'Life' bulbs), so ~ 15% higher output rating. They're available in a 10-pack (you'll need 12 for a 240Z, if you include the glovebox light). 2. MSA are now offering a replacement kit, consisting of 15 bulbs. These are said to be rated at '3.5W+' output power, which MSA say equates to 24 lumens of lighting output (the OE bulbs were rated at 20 lumens). $29.95. Be careful of alternatives that offer higher output ratings. They'll fit the socket but often have a base that's longer than the OE bulbs so they project too far into the gauge (i.e. bump up against the green plastic shade). Also, the globe (glass part) may be a bigger diameter.

I don't think it's any of the above. It's 70's era, stiff and it likes to crack. That indicates styrene (or polystyrene, if you like) -- same as plastic model kits. I'm not optimistic about repairs of thin styrene sheet using a plastic welder. There are several old threads about repairing cracks in these panels. The accepted wisdom is to use a glued-on bridging sheet, applied strategically on the inside (hidden) surface. An old credit card or hotel key card is about the right thickness and flexibility. JB Weld (5-minute type will be ok here) recommended, although Gorilla Glue might be a good alternative (good bond, more flex). If you use JB Weld, score both glue application areas with a single-edge razor blade (cross-hatch pattern) in order to give the glue some 'traction' on the shiny surfaces.

Suggest that Blue's notes on derelict L24 engine start-up be posted to the 'Tech Pubs' folder. That's a very good guide and could serve a lot of club members well in the future. Re possible value of this car, as found, there's another low-mileage '72 Z on the Bring-a-Trailer auction site this week. Two-owner, dry-storage on axle stands for many years, pretty much unmolested, and in very good running order (see seller's 5-minute video). Auction closes on Wednesday. Current bid is $15,500. I think the car will bring $23,000.

This website -- www.donsbulbs.com -- will give you some insights into how incandescent-type light bulbs are spec'd and named. Terminology like 'miniature bayonet', 'festoon', 'base type' and 'bulb type', as well as sizing rules, become a little more understandable. The site also provides some comprehensive x-reference charts for bulb spec vs. manufacturers' product names. Although it's probably self-evident to most of us, one of the primary challenges facing the LED lighting industry is the absence of beam spread. A lot of work is being put into the development of 'lens' technologies for LED's in an effort to correct for this. An example of the problem can be found in most of the LED-type work lights that are available for automotive work. No matter how many LED cells they have, the light is difficult to aim so that it's on-target -- intense illumination in a small zone, very little illumination elsewhere. I have about 6, all of different design, and I don't like any of them. I've gone back to my old-fashioned incandescent and fluorescent units.

Getting those instrument pod lips properly contoured is going to be a challenge.

I experienced the same conundrum last summer. I already had a dash cap (uninstalled - came from the PO at time of purchase), but it didn't fit, so that made it a bit easier to decide to go the fill-and-sand route. It was a long job, but I'm happy with the results. The only question mark is long-term durability. Only time will tell. If you decide to fill-and-sand, here are three tips from my experience: Have a look at the 'Dura-block' sanding blocks available from Eastwood.com. The big block with the tear-drop-shaped cross-section is perfect for dealing with the multiple-shape/multiple-direction contours of the top surface of the Z's dash. It also worked well in and around the instrument pod openings. You might have to buy a whole set to get this particular block, though. Check the Eastwood website. A 'Work-Mate' type folding workbench is about perfect as a platform to hold the dash while you're working on it. Slide the dash over the table, then use C-clamps to clamp the back top lip (sits under the windshield) of the sheet-metal 'armature' (dash skeleton) to the table-top. You'll probably need to tape some wood wedges in place between the lower front part of the armature and the front legs of the bench. Use a good-quality bench (Black & Decker recommended). The cheap-o units are too flimsy and wobbly. After you're all finished with the foam, fill and sanding, remove the dash temporarily and put a sheet of painter's poly-sheet film over the workbench to keep it clear of primer and paint. While most of us have used bumper repair compound for the top-coat filler, I'm still not convinced its the right solution. There's been mention of dash-specific compounds in at least one thread on this site, and I think that might be a better (but more expensive) bet. More flexibility = less chance of separating along the edges of the cracked vinyl.I have some misgivings about your starting point. I wonder if you might be better served by buying another cracked dash (should be cheap) that still has most of the top vinyl in place. That way, you won't have to guess about getting the proper contours. My 2 cents. From my experience, count on investing 3 or 4 weekends of work to complete the job.

Nice picture gallery. I'm in the middle of the same process, working with a combination of the best parts from 3 separate units. In all cases, to a greater or lesser extent, the black plastic housing has warped from excessive heat. I wonder if this design might be a good candidate for LED lighting. Anyone tried this? Also, the gaskets in all of my donor units have torn. Any thoughts on where to source a sheet of 1mm-thick neoprene?

Consider this: Shelby Cobra 289 listed for an MSRP of $5995 in its hey-day. Jag E-Type coupe, IIRC, listed for $5495. An up-market Sting Ray listed at slightly less than the Jag Not much changed, price-wise, between '65 and '69. At the time of its launch, there was very little available between a base Corvette and a Triumph TR or similar. The Z fit very nicely in the gap. It made the Brit sports cars irrelevant (except to ex-pat Brits) and didn't need (or want) to compete with the Corvette.. At least, not at the time. The arrival of the ZX reflected changing times and changing Nissan corporate ambitions.

From my '70 Z... Sorry the picture is a bit fuzzy, but you can just make out that it's a Phillips head screw. Good luck. Mine dropped down into the back of the IP after I unscrewed it, and I never found it again until I pulled the dash to start crack repairs.

Interesting mix of parts. Appears to have Series 1 engine cooling fan (metal), and Series 1 Brake and Clutch M/C's, but the rest of the gear looks like later-issue (e.g. air cleaner with 'summer/winter' control flap, 'Nissan OHC' valve cover, balance tube with top vacuum port). Not sure whether those are 3-screw or 4-screw SU's. The rear hatch glass has the vertical, Series defroster grid but the hatch itself lacks the Series 1 extractor vents. Seats are the early design (adjuster knobs).

'Passing Relay' sounds like it's related to the 'kickdown switch' for an automatic transmission.

MSA is recently advertising a NISMO head gasket as 'back in stock'. US$169.95 "This 0.6 millimeter thick performance metal head gasket fits all L28 280Z/280ZX"

Suggest you experiment with the SEM Bumper-Bite product before getting anywhere close to your dash with it. The set-up time is very short (well under a minute, in my experience), so you'll only get about 30 s. to mix and apply before it starts to get granular and won't spread/fill properly. I experimented with different mixes of catalyst:filler and found no change in the set-up time. I ended up working with very small batches ( ~ 1/2" of filler, ~ 1/4" of catalyst). Tedious, but the only way I found that would work. To maximize your apply time window, mix quickly with the same flex-blade applicator that you'll use to apply the filler to the dash. To reinforce Steve's comments about keeping the SEM layer thin, try this as an experiment: Apply a 1/8" thick layer of Bumper-Bite to a piece of a cereal box. Let it set up, then bend the boxboard. If you get the same results I did, you'll find that Bumper-Bite is only slightly flexible. Better than Bondo, I'm sure, but not flexible like a sheet of polyethylene plastic. Finish-sanding the Z dash is a real challenge, because contours are both convex and concave, and run in multiple directions. I found the contoured sanding blocks sold by Eastwood ('Dura-Block'?) to be perfect for the job (including the instrumend pod recesses, where I had chipped-out sections that needed repair). The SEM product sands very nicely, but you'll inevitably get some pinholes -- which the SEM product doesn't work very well on. I used local applications of Bondo's glazing putty and got good results. Be sure to use eye protection when carving and bevelling the edges of the dash vinyl layer with your Dremel. The cuttings are tiny but very sharp-edged. If you're going to be in the Burlington area, let me know. My bare, restored dash is still sitting in the basement waiting to be built up and re-installed in the car, so you can have an up-close look at the end result (which I'm quite happy with).

How about McAllister Industries' Chamberlain coil spring mfg in Surrey, British Columbia?... www.mcallisterind.com/chamberlain-spring-services.html They offer prototyping services and low-volume production runs. Not sure about their pricing structure, but probably attractive in light of the current state of affairs with our Canadian dollar.

Anyone here who can comment on whether these newer-style Nikki pump diaphragms are compatible with E85 gas?

I repaired my dash this past summer and experienced the same fast-set problems with the SEM 'Bumper-Bite' product. As noted above, you really do get only ~ 30 - 45 seconds before it gets chalky and will no longer spread properly. Interesting that the label instructions offer no cautions about this. I experimented with different proportions of hardener and resin (even as little as 1:5) and found that it really didn't make much difference (!). I wonder if a lot of this stuff has been sitting on the retailers' shelves for too long and has started to chemically change? Even though it was a giant PITA to work with, I liked the semi-flexible aspect of Bumper-Bite and decided to stick with it. I worked with very small batches -- about a half-inch of product squeezed from each tube, then a fast mix with a putty knife, followed by quick transfer and smoothing into the dash crack area. I used a 4" x 6" tear-off notepaper pad as my mixing sheet and just threw away each page after use. Bumper-Bite sands and forms really well, and takes primer nicely. I had to use regular autobody glazing putty to final-treat the inevitable pin holes. FWIW, I used Dow 'Great Stuff' (red label version) foam-in-a-can to fill most of the crack. This was backed it up with an under-layer of fibreglass wherever possible. The foam layer was carved down so that the Bumper-Bite fill layer never had to be much more than ~ 1/8" thick. All of the cracks were vee'd and the edges of the top vinyl surface were beveled. I live in a much more temperate climate than DJ, so I'm optimistic that my dash repairs will last. Not sure that I'd still be that optimistic if I lived in Orlando or Phoenix.

I did this swap for my '70 Z last year, using the blower motor and impeller from a Civic. While bench-testing the unit with the newly-installed Honda parts, I discovered that the output performance (CFM) of the Honda impeller is extremely sensitive to direction of rotation. Perhaps you have your motor wired so that it's running the impeller in the low-output direction? FWIW, I tried the same test with the old Nissan motor and impeller and found that the OE set-up provided about the same CFM output (modest) in either direction! This suggests to me that the Z's impeller is poorly designed and performs more like a paddle wheel than a centrifugal fan.

You could perhaps try an application of regular-duty epoxy to inside surfaces of both bushing shell halves before re-assembling with the bushing in place. If you smear the spherical outer surface of the bushing with grease or oil before re-assembling the retaining shells, it should break free of the epoxy bond after the epoxy has set up. You'll end up with an epoxy liner inside the bushing shells. Warning: I haven't tried this, but I think it would work. If it doesn't turn out satisfactory, you can probably remove the epoxy from the bushing shells with a Dremel rotary tool and then try something else.

This is an old thread, but it came in handy when I started taking my wiper linkage apart yesterday evening. It wasn't immediately obvious to me how to remove the circlips on the intermediate and end shafts. None of my circlip removal tools would work. Here's what I came up with, after a bit of experimentation. Hope it saves someone else some head-scratching when they get to this point: The circlip that holds each pivot shaft inside its alloy casing is made from hardened steel. It has no 'ears' to assist with removal. To remove without damaging clip or retaining groove: 1) Clamp the alloy casing in a vise (use jaw pads) 2) Find two medium-size flat blade screwdrivers (tips should be 3/16' - 1/4" in width) 3) Insert the tip of screwdriver #1 between the circlip ends. Hold it steady against one of the circlip ends so as to keep the clip from rotating as you... 4) Insert the tip of screwdriver #2 next to that of screwdriver #1 and then push outward against the other circlip end. Expand the clip and lift the end out of the retaining groove. 5) Now relocate the tip of screwdriver #2 to sit in the shaft's retaining groove under the lifted-out circlip end. 6) Using screwdriver #1, push against the circlip's still-seated end to rotate the clip so that it progressively rides up over the tip of screwdriver #1 and out of the retaining groove. You should be able to re-use this clip. The circlip that retains each of the intermediate pivot shafts in its eyeball joint does have 'ears'.. but they have no holes and are therefore not of much use in the removal process. What won't be immediately obvious, however, is that these circlips are made out of soft, deformable metal. You can use the same removal technique as that described above for the circlips on the alloy-housing shafts. However, these clips will actually stay deformed as you expand them to lift an end out of the retaining groove. It doesn't seem like it would be a good idea to try to re-use these soft clips -- they'll probably be ready to fracture or pop out of place at some point shortly after you've put everything back inside the cowling. For reference when sourcing a replacement, the diameter of the retaining groove is 6.9mm / 0.27". The OE felt washers measure 21mm OD x 17mm ID x ~ 3.5mm thick. There is one washer fitted to each of the (four) compliant pivot points in the linkage assembly. Hard to say whether they were grease-packed or oil-soaked when new. Whatever was used, I think it was done to prolong the life of the washer rather than to serve as a source of backup lubricant for the mechanical part of the pivot.

If you intend to use a wire wheel for cleaning up the area, pre-solder, I would suggest that a brass wire wheel is the safe choice (less potential for sparks).