Namerow

I have the same twin-lever set-up waiting to be installed on my '70 when I finish the interior resto in the spring. What do you plan to use for a throttle lever knob?

As luck would have it, I was working on the fuel gauge from my '70 Z yesterday (I have all the gauges out of the dash as part of my on-going refreshtoration). While cleaning the painted gauge face, I noticed that the script, '60L' appears in a tiny font right next to the 'Full' mark. Never saw that before. Sixty litres equals 15.85 US gallons.

FWIW, Eastwood offers a liquid sealer that has received a lot of good reviews from customers (a couple of whom have specifically mentioned using it to treat cowl areas). Positive comments about ease of use, coverage, and final appearance. Perhaps worth looking at - provided you're not dealing with corrosion to the point of needing to replace metal. Eastwood Brush on Seam Sealer 30.4 fl.oz. - Item #51657ZP

pm sent

I have also worked with Mackie Transport c/o their Oshawa, Ontario h/q, for both car-hobby transport and special-events business purposes. They are a large, sophisticated and experienced outfit whose owners also happen to be fans of old cars/trucks and motorsports. Quality-of-service will be A-1, pricing will be realistic.

By my count, there are currently seven '77 Z's and one '76 listed (along with a number of ZX's, etc).

Also available in Canada from Home Hardware stores... '6 Piece Snap Fasteners Refill' INNOVAK Item #5472-927 Model #041107 6PC

Scary rust. Impressive fab and repair work (makes it all look so easy). This is another great photo reference guide for all of us who are contemplating sheet metal repairs. Thx for posting!

OK, after another search of the site (there seem to be a LOT of different ways to spell 'speedometer') it looks like I may have found the answer my question, c/o Captiain Obvious. In case anyone else is trying to deal with this issue for the first time, here's what he had to say: "Yeah, that trip odometer cable... Barring complications due to a dash cap, pulling the speedo out would be half the job if it weren't for that trip odometer cable. The speedo is pretty much designed to be able to be removed with the dash in the car. In typical Japanese fashion, they set everything up such that it's supposed to be relatively easy to remove the speedo. The electrical cables have significant extra length such that the speedo can be pulled generously far from the dash before you run out of length, and so does the trip odometer cable. Yes, I said it, "and so does the trip odometer cable". The PROBLEM is that they wrapped the trip-o cable around the HVAC ducting so that it didn't hang down on your knee or get tangled up with anything, and because of this, it's tethered too short to get to the screw to release it. My solution was to reach up and unhook the fresh air duct hose above the drivers knees and untangle the trip-o cable from the duct. Once that is done, there is enough length to get the speedo far enough away from the dash to get to the release screw. I think I also pulled to steering wheel just to get more room in there to work. I was pretty frustrated by the time I got the end of that job, so I may be missing some of the details, so YMMV."

Reviving this old thread, since it deals with an issue that I'm facing right now... I'm in the process of removing the gauges from the dash of my '70 Z so that I can clean up the clear-plastic faces and get rid of some body shop dust that seems to have settled inside some the gauge cans. The dash is still in the car (I don't really want to pull it unless it's absolutely necessary), but the heater panel (and the heater assy) is out. I've been working from right to left as I remove the gauges, and all that's left now is the speedometer... I'm pretty sure I can free up the two wing nuts (I've made a slotted socket to do this). Unthreading the speedo cable sleeve shouldn't be a problem either. However, I'm not sure how I’m going to get a screwdriver onto the little retaining screw that holds the trip odometer cable in place. The FSM (I have the 71 and 72 editions) says nothing about this. Someone posted part of the BE section for a later model year (not sure which one) and here the recommendation is to reach through the tach hole to undo the set screw. Problem is that, in my car, the set screw is facing towards the driver’s door, so I don’t see how I can get a screwdriver on it by reaching through the tach hole. At the same time, the space available to get at the screw from under the dash looks ‘challenging’. Does anyone has any tips or tricks (e.g. some magic tool or combination of socket extension/U-joint/driver tip) for getting this done?

For DIY-ers, some good pix and info available here... K-D #2400 or K-D #3087 Valve Spring Compressor Photo Gallery by Ralph Scott at pbase.com

I just did this cleaning process a day ago using Windex, a soft cloth, light pressure and a couple of repeats. Just use normal care to remove surface grit/dust beforehand, and don't over-scrub. My results look fine. Recommend that you do not use anything with either solvent or abrasive content when cleaning these gauge faces. FYI, my auxiliary gauges (my Z is a low-VIN, low-mileage MY-1970) are missing what appears to have been glue-faced tape coverings over adjustment ports on the back of the metal instrument housing 'cans'. These ports were part of the OE housing design, allowing the gauge supplier to do final adjustment of the indicator-needle positioning. Once the tape fell off in service, the inside of the gauge became open to back-of-IP dust intrusion. As evidence on my gauges, there's a clearly obvious dust/grit build-up on the surface of the green illuminator bulb hood (which I plan to clean off, first with a computer-type aerosol air-blast spray, followed by Windex on a Q-tip). Also FYI, on one of my aux. gauges the little glued-on white-plastic discs that retain the clear plastic gauge cover had dropped off their peg mounts. This caused the clear-plastic gauge cover to 'lean' on the indicator needle, which in turn caused the needle to rub on and put a light scuff mark on the painted gauge face. Typical, detail-level issues for a 43-year-old car! If there are any places where the industry has really made significant advances since our Z's were designed, it's in materials (esp. plastics) and adhesives. I also used Meguire's plastic polish for the gauge clear-plastic lenses. I used a small buffing attachment on my Dremel, set at lowest rpm. Results were very good. Again, common sense prevails. Don't over-do it. BTW, I've read a few commentaries about the illumination benefits of painting the inside of the metal gauge 'cans' with white paint. FWIW, my gauges housings already have what appears to be a factory-applied (i.e. incomplete and microscopically-thin) coating of white paint.

kacrow: Did the NAPA repair item work for the heater control valve in your 76? Do you know whether it wpould work for a Series 1 Z?

GMB CORPORATION 150-3, Handa, Kawanishi-cho Phone: +81 745441911 SHIKI-GUN, NRA 636-0295 Japan

Thanks, all, for your input. Confirms my suspicions (i.e. to good to be true).

This outfit (nissanpartszone.com) seems to have a very broad inventory and some interesting pricing. Makes me wonder if they actually have all of the parts available that they list on their site. Anybody have any purchase experience with them?

Good to know. Thanks for sharing the info.

Looks like fun! I'll be making the same kind of parts order for my '70 pretty soon. Out of curiosity, how did you have BD ship your parts? What was the base shipping cost, and what duties/taxes did you end up paying as they crosses the border?