mjr45

z, I already have, the lines have all been checked and about 75% replaced with new line.

Zed, I haven't checked them, I'm not real sure how to. Just got done reading the FSM A/C section and I'm as confused as ever. The trouble shooting guides don't seem to answer my questions about to check. I may have a spare set of magnet valves so I'll have to dig around in my spares boxes.

I'm totally f*****g baffled, if I start the car with the control in the A/C position I get air from the center and floor vents, when I move the control to REC I get air from the floor vents, when I move the control back to A/C no air from the center vents only from the floor, if I shut her down and restart I get air back to the center vents. I tried to flush the heater core, it would flush thru the return line but not the intake and the two lines on the interior to the core are stone cold. The lines in the engine bay are warm, but probably just from engine heat. Its got a new water pump and never runs hot so WTF is going on????

Any idea's on the heating problems. The heater worked fine 2 weeks ago when checked, now it just blows cool air but only after putting the control to defrost then back to heat. All the vacuum lines are good and no loose connections. I can do without the A/C, but not the heat. Like I said, I'm stuck!

Yup I know the pressure is to high, according to the FSM it shouldn't be over 40. Tomorrow, I'll evacuate the system and try again, I alos didn't hear the compressor engaging, but that may be a function of the pressure.

I've searched the threads for an answer and come empty. All the vacuum lines to the heat control have been checked and/or replaced. The A/C has been recharged and shows 70 lbs. of pressure. All the wire controlled valves and flappers are working. What I get is no cold air and no heat. Sometimes I get cool air thru the defrost vents and from the bottom vents when set to heat, I can also get cool air from the center vents at times unless the control is first put to defrost and the back to other settings. I'm lost once again!

I am by no means an expert on wiring, but I agree with Steve, however, the 2 white wires in pic #4 are similar to my 75 and they don't connect anywhere, I think (wild guess) they were for some type of altitude adjustment for the ECM. The wire in pic #2 maybe for the water temp switch mine was similar. Pic #4 is some type of jacked up work around on a console connector, #6 probably the clock which has been redone, #7 a fused wire to the console probably a radio wire. All of these are just WAG's on my part, get a FSM and you can tell exactly what you are looking at.

I used the nylon rope stuffed into the #1 cylinder, worked like a charm.

The temp switch you are refering to is related to the ignition timing if I'm correct and has something to do with ignition advance when cold. I disabled the one on my 75 with no issues, but I also have the dizzy from a 79ZX. The part if I remember correctly is unavailable for the 280, but can be found for a 260 and is the same part.

Captain, good idea. Thanks.

I like the rope idea, I'll give it a whirl, thanks.

The last time I tightened the cam and balancer bolts the engine was on a stand and easy to stop the crank from turning, now its in the car and I need to tighten them up, but not real sure how to do it with just one person, Any suggestions?

Thanks Jeff, but I wanted to make absolutely sure the cam and crank were right, which I now know they were, also, I had to replace my crank pulley with a newly refurbed one. Today I'll be putting it all back and will make sure the dizzy is correct. I've also learned that the timing cover doesn't go back on without dropping the oil pan, last time I did this, the engine was on a stand much easier that way, in the car its a PITA.

Sometimes I feel like a complete idiot! After putting the timing mark at zero degree's the keyway looked like it was at about 11 o'clock, then after looking some more I suddenly remembered that with the engine in the car it is canted to the side, thus putting the keyway at 12 o'clock. I'm still going to pull the timing cover and reset the chain, just to make sure it's all lined up correctly, also after pulling the dizzy, it was no where near the correct position, the #1 plug was at least 1 plug off the dizzy cover mark. Oh well, live and learn.

Thanks Chas, I'll try that today. It is my understanding that when the crank keyway is at 12 o'clock, the dizzy rotor just past the clip and the cam with #1 cylinder lobes at about 10 and 2 then # 1 is at TDC. I gently used a screwdriver as well as a stick and felt the piston going up and down and stopped turning the crank at the top of the stroke. Should be at TDC or very close. At this time I've got stuff apart with no oil or coolant and I'm going to pull the crank pulley and just realign the timing chain and put the redone pulley on which will hopefully allow me to time it correctly.

Zed, this engine was running, although very poorly, when I was checking the timing which I do fairly regularly and noted that the timing had changed from 7 degree's to 20 with no adjustment done. The keyway should be at 12 o'clock with the timing mark at zero, so I'm thinking that the cam and crank timing are off and that the damper has failed.

When I checked the timing with a light it was at about 20 degree's but when I initially installed the engine the timing was at 7-8 degrees, since I had no more room for changing the timing on the dizzy, I left it there over a couple of weeks the timing changed as stated. Right now I am in the process of removing the crank pulley and will re-install the timing chain which has less than 500 miles on it and make sure everything is in alignment per specs. Wade I'll check the timing mark on the cam when I pull it all off. Like the cam remark, maybe between us we'd have 1 good engine. Zed, with the key at 12, the cam is off the rabbit ears config. which makes me believe the cam and crank timing are off, I'm actually surprised it ran at all.

OK I know I have a bad timing issue, the engine runs like crap over 2500 RPM. New timing chain, guides and head was redone. Now when #1 is at TDC(by touch with a stick in the cylinder) lobes on the cam look like rabbit ears, the timing mark on the crank is at 15° and the woodruff keyway is at about 11 o'clock. I have a rebuilt crank pulley to put on since I think maybe the balancer spun, but why would the keyway be that far off from 12 o'clock if # 1 is at TDC?

Hey Wade, that wooden gas cap is a fine example of redneck engineering and craftsmanship.

Actually should be Custom vinyl graphic's, fingers don't work well with bandages on them.

I have a guy in Colorado Springs (actually my son) who can do custom vinyl graphic's using a very high quality vinyl, about twice the thickness of vinyl graphic's sold but many of the parts dealers. He also does custom air brushing. Just let me know by PM and put you in touch. Thanks.

Yep agree with Carl, I know from experience what its like to try welding lying on your back with the car only 18" above you, doable but not fun.

Not real sure where a violin goes on my Z, have to think about that. Maybe next to the banjo bolt.

Anyone had any dealing with Dale Mfg. in Salem OR? I just sent off my spare harmonic balancer/crank pulley to be rebuilt, the one on my car I believe is slipping or has slipped. I painted the timing mark when I had the engine out and redid the timing chain, painted at zero degree's at TDC and it now shows 10 degree's at TDC, so I marked the pulley again with a mark on the lower half and it is now slightly off. I also think my timing chain is off a tooth and I know my oil pump dizzy is off all of which is why my car runs like crap!

Great looking car and your info is very well done, this should go to a new home with ease, but sorry you have to loose your ride.