mjr45

Doesn't mean anything that I know of. It looks the kind of thing a bone yard would paint on a part.

My initial plan was to replace the electrical components on the PCB board, but once out with board off, the counter balance attached to the spring was completely broken and mo amount of tinkering could fix it, thus the battery operated quartz clock.

One of the things I forgot to mention is the Sharp clock has a bunch of wires for the alarm, snooze and switches, the only ones you need are the black and red that go to battery holder in the clock, I just cut the rest off.

Real simple, its made of plastic and I just cut the sides off to fit the time adjuster, it makes it a little harder to adjust time, because it only turns the second hand, so you have turn it a lot.

I read a lot of the threads on the Z clock repair and so I pulled out the clock and went to work. My clock was unfortunately toast, so I went back to looking at clock threads and decided to just replace the guts with a battery operated clock. I bought a Sharp clock from Wally World for $3.99 and a battery adapter from Radio Shack for $1.10. The swap was fairly easy even for someone as unskilled as me. I kept the hands from the Sharp including the second hand (I just liked the look of the second hand sweep). The Sharp clock had a short enough stem that it didn't need any trimming, I attached the clock to the Z clock backing plate with double sided tape and a couple of drops of super glue, the rubber band I have left in place as a backup to hold the guts of the clock in place. Here are some pics of the process with one (pic #6) of the empty Sharp clock. I believe the pics are self explanatory. The final product(pic #4) doesn't look to bad and I was able to trim the second hand to accept the Z clock time adjuster(?). I will attach the battery holder to the inside of the glove box to make it easy to change the battery. I'm also putting LED bulbs in all the gauges and painted the inside of the cans.

You gotta love those slick well done door cards and the velour seat covers as well as the tasteful HVAC panel.

I've always wanted a Z40, I'd pay whatever he wants, no ?'s no inspection, no nothing!

What the hell!!!!!!

Seriously very nice, I'm going to try the peroxide, Oxy-clean, sunlight soak to see if I can get mine at least partially back to original.

Bart and Steve, I passed on the car after talking to the owner who owns a body/resto shop and his advice was to buy and sell off all the parts, in his words "not a good candidate for a resto."

Chuck, yep that's the part. PM me. Thanks. MGood where'd you get such a clean looking bottle?

Thanks Chuck I appreciate it.

I'm looking for a relatively minor part for my 75Z. I'm looking for a windshield washer bottle lid, mine is toast. I've tried several "universal" lids with no luck, none fit just right. My washer jug is fine, just no usable lid, so I don't really want to spend the $ for a whole new unit. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Steve, I just e-mailed the guy on that 240, my 75 280 is almost done and I'm looking for another project and this one looks promising. I know by the pics that a lot of work would need to be done depending on how bad the rust worm infection is besides the right rear panel. Thanks for posting this up.

Thanks to Dave I now have a fully functional T/S switch which was the problem, also Hazards work and all is good with the world.

I put a 79 ZX 5 speed in my 75 with no issues. Sound deadening material thru out the cockpit helped a lot with some of the squeaks but you're dealing with a 38 year car, so you have to expect some rattles, I even used contractors expanding foam in some places to help with the hollow sound on some panels. The headlight relay kit is a great idea as well.

Amen to the acquiring new tools! On my "rolling resto" I learned how to weld and paint as well as other minor skills like using a multi-meter. I have way more $ into my 75 than I'll ever get out of it, but its been a fun, frustrating, blood, sweat and tears time. I now know every nut, bolt and wire in the car and all this will go a long way to helping on the next project, a 49 Chevy 3100 P/U.

The issue I had with my T/S and hazard had to do with the dash wiring harness connectors (pass. tunnel side) which also goes to the head light/combo switch I believe. the connectors were all corroded and the wires in the connectors were loose and falling out. Just a thought, bear in mind I am very bad with electrical stuff but get great advice from the site.

I got big in to "while I'm here" and realized I had to stop when "while I'm here" got to the point of replacing parts that didn't need it. To hard on the wallet. Now I just work on simple things, like wiring HA!

I'd just keep some of it if it is functional, like the radio antenna, the heater blower and the door chrome plate. I think I'd probably toss the rest or you might put it on the Pay it Forward thread, but with some better pics. IMHO.

RIP Enrique your wisdom will be sorely missed. My sincere condolences to all his family and friends. Thanks for all you have given us.

Idaho, is that a reference to the boobs page?

Thanks Dave, you've been a great help and a real life saver, thanks again. After looking thru your pages on CarDomain, I can only say I wish I had half your skill and expertise then I could start my next project (49 Chevy 3100 P/U) with confidence.

OK that sounds fine to me.

Its a pretty simple job even with the manifold on. I replaced the same bolt on mine long before I pulled the motor when I replaced all of them. I don't know about the 240 but on a 280 there is also an engine hoist hook on that bolt.