mjr45

No pic, but IMHO they look like arse. A clear bra would work though.

Steve, yup, not greeting the spouse in an appropriate manner could prove to be unhealthy for you! I e-mailed Dave and he is also going to look to see if he has a board that I can use. If you get a chance to look later this week that would be cool. Thanks.

Steve, what I need is the bake-lite board with the 3 wires that goes onto the turn signal switch, mine broke in two when I was putting it back together, if not that, then maybe just the turn signal switch, the rest of the unit is OK. Right now its holding with some super glue, but I don't expect it will hold very long. Thanks.

Yup no grounding issue, just checked and there was no continuity on the right post, took it apart again and adjusted the contact on the right, got continuity and as I was putting back together the bakelite board with the terminals broke in two. Guess I'll try to ?glue it back together or maybe its time to find another switch!!!! ****!!!!!!!!!

My right T/s quit and after posting a question got to work. First off 6-8 of the wires in the passenger side tunnel had come out of the connector and after multiple attempts at crimping wires for a new connector gave up and soldered them all(crimping wires to connectors is something I've never been able to do correctly, I've got about 6 crimping tools). After still no T/S attacked the switch which I've taken apart 3 times and the best I get is an intermittant right T/S so I know its in the switch. I'm a little leery about working on it again for fear of the little tabs breaking off and then what?

I've used my ammo brass vibrating cleaner for some small parts, nuts and bolts with walnut shell media. It does a great job of cleaning them up, but leaves them very dull kind of light gray color. Just a thought.

I agree with all of the above, $500 tops or walk away very quickly.

I'll use my multi meter to see what comes up as soon as I get some more heat in the garage, right now only have 1 kerosun heater and a 750 sqft garage.

Thanks, Dave reworked the switch about 18 mo. ago, but it still won't return to off on the left side after a turn, not a reflection on Dave, its just an old switch.

My right T/S just quit working! The hazard switch works and lights up all 4 corners, the left T/S works, the flasher units are good (brand new), the hazard switch had R&R done about 2 months ago. The T/S flasher clicks when on left but no dash or T/S lights, bulbs are all good. I've done a search on the site but no firm answers. I've had to jumper 4 of the wires over the connector in the pass.side left side (I know its not the best fix, but I'm waiting on some new connectors) for wires that were pulled out of the connector. It seems to me that if the hazard works and there is power to the flasher unit that the next step is pull the T/S switch off the steering column and give the once over. Right or wrong?

the ads I'm refering to were on sites like Yakaz, Kruse, Henninger, etc.

After perusing several pages of Z car ads, one thing seems to pop up in most of them and that is mileage. I am beginning to wonder if a lot of folks and dealers in particular don't realize the odo turns over at 99,999. About 80% of all the ads show odo readings of 20 to 60K miles, are there really that many Z's with low mileage? Hmm makes me wonder!

Up here in the high country, the Z is in the garage fore the duration, not much snow and no use of salt, but in the cities they use Mag Chloride a type of salt, bu "not as corrosive" as other places. It was -15 this AM and with no heater in the Z I don't drive 55.

Have a similar cold start issue, very low idle for 3-4 minutes about 400 during which I have to give it gas then will go up to normal. I know my CSV is bad and everything is hard to start when is -10 like it is up here for the past few days.

Mike keep on truckin' you'll get there, and this site has lots of folks willing AND able to help with lots of good advice. I've been trouble shooting my 75 Z for 5 months and haven't finished yet. Idaho, where do you keep all those rides? The Agusta is a sweet ride. I ahd a Volvo 544 that I traded for a AH Sprite way way back in my college days (dumb).

My 2 cents; you won't out of it what you have in it, an unfinished modded car will not bring much cash even from Z car folks. Keep it, finish it up and enjoy it.

I agree with xs10, a great deal of the issue has to do with lineage, with British sports cars they have been produced since the dawn of motorsports and that fact will always make them "more valued" than Japanese autos which are IMO a much better car in all respects. I had a AH Sprite and had to work on it daily just to keep it running it was fun but to 19 year old a convertable sports was the nuts.

Keep the lime green Z and finish the work you've started, no you'll never get out of it what have in it, but you will have great satisfaction in completing the work. Mine was red with purple flames on the hood and fenders, I did a all of the work myself with little experience at welding and painting, but good experience with mechanical stuff. The car is now Daytona yellow and I have about 11K in it, but in the long run it was well worth the $ and effort to me. Drive it for while and then paint it the color you want then drive it some more.

The fuel pump on my 75 runs off the ignition to start and then off the AFM don't know about a 77. If it won't turn over try re-checking the battery, if its OK try to jumper from the battery to the starter, take a 14-16 gauge wire from the + battery to the little post on the solenoid on top of the starter.

My experience with Hagerty and other "specialty" insurer's always had this caveat that the car had to be "limited in driving to and from show's or events and not used for daily driving"" which makes the car a trailer/garage queen. Just my 2 cents.

Fugly, the car not the girl!

Just to close this out, I changed the FPR, advanced the AFM spring 4 teeth to lean it out, redid the oil pump and dizzy to the right spot,timing is at 10 degree's. The car runs well, its still rich and I still have low vacuum, but it runs well with no hesitation, stumble or other things. I'm going to check one other area for the vacuum leak, maybe the brake booster, the brakes work well but I have a feeling the booster is going bad. Thanks for all the help.

Sounds like you have a good grip on your plan, keep a notebook handy, draw lots of diagrams and label EVERYTHING you take off, put every nut bolt and washer into zip loks with a label of where it came from(plan on replacing lots of rusted and broken nuts and bolts). I would suggest you get the Nissan FSM its somewhat better than the Chilton's. I started on a "refresh" of my 75 which was going to be a 6 month project and 19 months later its still not complete, you will get into the "while I'm here I might as well do ....." thing pretty quickly so I think your 6 month plan is way optimistic, also plan on spending at least 40% more than you figured. Doing all the work yourself will prove to be very satisfying and you will learn a lot of new skills. Have fun and remember the folks on this board are more than happy to help you in all manner of things, I couldn't have done mine without them.

I don't know for sure but I suspect you'll need a new head. Aluminum welding can be spendy and I doubt you could ever get the head perfectly flat after a weld job. The hole in the head is probably going to be a lot bigger than it appears. If it was me I would find a used head, have it rebuilt and go from there with no more worries and will probably cost you less in the long run.

Damn to bad I don't live close, I'd probably spend about 6 hours just going thru the storage.