mjr45

Yep kinda came to same conclusion, I'm trying to figure a way to put a fuel pressure gauge in the cockpit. I may also put in a new FPR, which I have a gut feeling is part of the problem. Thanks for all the help.

Today driving it ran fine, but still rich (exhaust smells like fuel). The tach is not jumping around and reads steady, that's what is so puzzling about this car, one its fine and the next day it isn't. All I did today prior to driving was do the checks as above and make a minor adjustment to the TPS.

Blue, yes new PCV but old hose, I think I'll change that out. Just finished doing some of the checks mentioned, the TPS may have been slightly off towards the idle position, so I changed that a bit, also, the Air Temp sensor in the AFM maybe off, outside temp was 74 and the Ohm reading was 1421 and should be at 2250 or better @ 68 degrees so I'm not sure if it is really off, also the dizzy vacuum diaphragm moved the reluctor slightly, but doesn't hold any vacuum, taking off the vacuum on the FPR and applying suction with a small hand pump made no change in RPM, RPM increased when line was off and not plugged. Vacuum is still at 12" drops to 0 when revved and then jumps to about 16 when throttle is let off and then back to 12.

Will be spending today going over all the things suggested to check as well as rechecking the electrical connections and let you all know what I come up with. The head was recently redone with couple of new valves, springs and guides all checked out OK, so just basic 3 angle grind and leveling of the head top and bottom took off 0.008 on the bottom and 0.002 off the top. Has new chain and guides and I'm sure I lined the chain up properly, so I am at a loss as to where the vacuum leak is. Just as an FYI, the injectors are new (stock) as are all the EFI connectors, the fuel rail and FPR are from a 79ZX. Thanks again.

Yes I have the EFI Bible, fuel pressure is 34-36psi at idle, haven't yet checked the TPS, but have opened it and adjusted it to the correct positioning at idle and WOT. Positive on the CTS, not the temp gauge, I'll check the TPS again and also the FPR. I've tried the CSV disconnected and it makes no difference. I used Fastwoman's yogurt cup test and couldn't maintain a vacuum, the engine has new gaskets all around and new vacuum lines, I tried the blowing smoke test and got leakage around the TB butterfly no where else that I could see. Today, I took her out and any revs above 3K caused it ti miss and the tach bounced all over the place above 3500, would go from 3200 to 5K and drop back then bounce some more, below 3K no misses and steady tach, it amazes me because I haven't touched anything in days and it ran fine until today. I'll also check the air temp sensor, haven't done that yet, and I'll try unpluging the AAR to see what happens. Thanks for all the answers.

75 280Z with 79 block and dizzy. After replacing the temp sensor and adjusting the AFM 4 teeth CW, it still runs very rich, plugs are covered in black soot, black soot and condensation blowing out the exhaust pipe when first started. The idle will not remain steady and requires adjustment almost every day, I've already replaced AAM which helped. I also know there is a vacuum leak, but can't find it anywhere, vacuum is about 12 psi with all new lines, AFM boots, etc. Timing is about 8 degrees and I know the oil pump is off about 1 tooth, which prevents advancing the timing any further. Could the timing being off cause it to run this rich? I really hate to try and tweak the AFM any more. the engine runs well with no missing, surges or hesitation and I see no smoke after initial start. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I'm still chasing down multiple electrical gremlins, i.e. no oil pressure gauge, no back up lights, no defroster, what a mess this "refresh" turned out, but I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, just hope its not the on-coming train! Thanks

I used some left over clear 4 mil Visqueen to redo the doors and used a 3M spray adhesive (its spendy but works great).

I would suspect that if this happened to one sensor connector you probably have others that are not much better. I would replace all of them with new connectors and avoid future issues. Just my2 cents

I feel your pain but from personal experience its tough to paint the bottom bits, I had to jack mine way up in front to get under the spoiler and under the from rocker panel covers, then repeat the process on the rear. Then again I did mine in my garage with no lift. Turned out OK, not a 6K paint job but its a good 3' job (from 3' it looks perfect).

Looks rough to me, I'm not sure what the hood is from and it looks like there are fender flares on it and no rear bumper. It might be a good buy depending on checking all the usual suspect area's and how much engine work might be needed.

Very nice ride!

Thanks, I'll try these suggestions this W/E.

75 280 with 79 block and N42 head, head has been refreshed, cleaned up and valve's done, new head gasket, no oil leaks apparent anyhwere. Now I have no oil pressure showing on the guage. I pulled the valve cover with the engine running (not smart) and oil was flying all over the place, replaced the oil sending unit and still no pressure indicated. The guage worked prior to the engine removal. I'm not sure if there is no oil pressure, bad guage, sending unit or what? I've checked electrical continuity from sending unit to the connector in the engine bay and its OK, haven't been able to check from the connector to the guage. Also tried grounding the wire from the sender with ignition on and no movement of the guage at all.

I know the FSM states to put sealant on the corners, but to be safe, I used RTV all around, I had also used copper spray sealant on the head gasket even though its supposed to go on dry and no leaks at all. I've used the copper spray before and never had a head gasket leak. Just my 2 cents.

Ouch! Glad you're OK, save it for a donor for another build, you've probably got a ton of good parts, engine, etc. that can be used and at least the inspection lid is still good.

Wow! That's all I can say.

A little piece of mind goes a long way, use the sealant.

Yup, I had to replace the driver side floor pan and frame rail, I could put my feet thru it, just like the Flintstone mobile, wasn't a fun job, but doable. I learned how to weld (not very well) to do the job.

I think I would try to straighten the drivers side floor pan, use a hammer and mollies to get it fairly straight, once its covered with new sound proofing and the underside is painted and coated it would look OK, the passenger side I would replace the frame rail and floor pan. The rest of the car looks pretty good and with some time and work could be able to make the trip to Canada. Just my 2 cents.

When I was replacing the head on mine, I didn't have the chain properly tensioned and had to remove the front cover, not to hard, but it was on a stand, replaced the chain, tensioner and guides. Gives you a little piece of mind that everything is new and hopefully won't need doing again anytime soon. Just be careful when putting the cover back on not to pinch or fold up the head gasket.

Thanx for the input. Right now I'm tempted to cut and splice all the wires with the exception of the C-1 to C-7 main connectors, what a PIA!

I am finding more and more electrical issues in my 75. The primary culprit is in the rat's nest of wires and connectors in the passenger side under the dash. I have found multiple wires pulled (corroded) out of connectors, so I'm looking to replace all of the connectors, any ideas where to get them. Right now I've had to jumper several wires over the connectors to get things like the Hazard and turn signals to work. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 79 5 speed tranny, needs to be rebuilt, won't go into 5th gear. Anyone's for the taking, shipping would have to be by motor freight and I live 50 miles from the nearest motor freight depot. Anyone local can just pick it up. PM if interested.

Given time and $, I'd probably do a ground up resto on the 73, hold onto for a while after the resto is complete and then sell it, you might be looking at some serious $ on the resale if done to a moderate level of restoration with quality parts, paint,etc. Just my 2 cents.

I'd probably offer 1-2K after I inspected the car, rust free doesn't always mean rust free. not if you look in the right places. Just my 2 cents.