mjr45

Haz, you are doing an amazing job!! You should bring up to my place for the "Aspen changing" would love to see the ride in person. Sorry, can't help you with the steering wheel, I replaced mine with a 14" wheel, but I can't remember the name of the company(old timers disease kicked in). Anyway, my wheel looks very nice and I love the finger grips on it. Keep up the great work.

You might try Motorsports, don't know for sure about a ZX, but the headliner and the A pillar trims are just vinyl and foam that is fairly easy to replace. If you are talking about hard plastic parts or door cards they might be a little more difficult to source.

Just for grins I'm going to dismantle the ECU I removed yesterday and see whats what, I'm a real novice with electrical stuff and reflowing solder joints may or may not be in my wheel house, I was told that when soldering, I do a good job of welding.

I agree with Mark, find a good used L24 drop it in and go, then take your old motor and take your time and a little cash at a time and rebuild it into a better motor, just my 2¢.

Well today I pulled the plugs they were wet and covered in black carbon, cleaned them all, checked the Temp sensor wiring to make sure it was OK with a multimeter, it wasn't the wires had come loose from the bullet connectors and were barely touching. I redid the connections and checked with the meter that all was good and moved on to the ECU. The car started and ran OK with no big issues, I tapped on the ECU and the engine sputtered, idle dropped and it died. then wouldn't start. I switched out the ECU for the original and it fired up, ran normally, even the idle remained constant, which it hadn't done with the other ECU the idle would go up on 1st start up then slowly drop to 900 then down to 600 and slowly creep back up to 850. I'll see what tomorrow brings with the original ECU back in, tapping on it made no difference on how it ran. So to sum up, maybe multiple problems causing the super rich condition, temp sensor not really working and a bad ECU. I'll keep my fingers crossed and say a prayer, if all is well, then I'll try to figure out why it still runs rich or maybe that will change, who knows. Thanks Mike

Captain, you're spot on. I did my dash lights minus the speedo and tach(haven't been able to get them out with the dash cap on) which I will do soon, painted the inside of the cans bright white and used the leds which fit into the little clear green housing and voila' dash lihjts that are brighter with a slight green tinge, I love'em.

Len, I'm in serious need of the Hellfire!! Have fun with the kids then do other stuff.

I switched the ECU from the original to a spare out of a 76 Z, so I'll try putting the original back in and see what happens. I didn't have this problem with the old one so who knows. Thanks

I agree with Steve, replace them all with LED's. I did all my dash lights, the overhead and map light, looks much better than stock. www.superbriteleds.com

I hate to resurrect this thread, but I am frankly stumped. I replaced the Accel coil with the Crane PS 20, car ran great for a total of 3 weeks then yesterday it died on the road, had to push it home(only about 3/4 mile and mostly downhill) wouldn't start and I had a strong odor of fuel. I changed the coil back to a stock Z coil and it started and ran enough to get up the driveway. Today I hooked up the Crane again, it started and ran (at idle) with no issues. Shut it down and just now started it again, ran like crap sounded like it was missing a lot and blew tons and tons of whitish/bluish smoke. I checked for fire from the coil with a spark plug hooked to spark plug wire and got a nice fat blue spark, I also checked the timing and hasn't changed 16°, fuel pressure was 37-38 at idle without vacuum, when I revved it the pressure bounced around from 15-48, but it was still running like crap. I am at a loss as what is going on, fuel pump?, bad injectors?, crud in the tank? I don't have a clear in-line filter from the tank, but when I replaced the O rings in the pump, it was clean. Help I'm lost. Thanks Mike

Nope no clue on Accel, just know its a POS as others have stated, I burned up 2 in year.

Zed you're right, not any more comfortable. I run a 79 ZX dizzy with e 12-80 module and when I originally put it in the car I removed the stock ballast resistor along with the old ign. module. So after burning 2 Accel coils in the last year I went with the Crane PS 20 as some have recommended. The Crane came with a ballast resistor and I'm not sure whether to put it on or not. It simply connects from the + lead of the ign. module then to the coil. If I understand you, I should probably put the ballast resistor on simply to be safe, also, I thought the PS 20 was 1.0 ohm.

Hey Site, do you need the Crane ballast resistor with the PS 20 coil. I have removed the old (1975) ballast resistor and ign. module. Car run OK with the Accel but it died I believe. I put the PS 20 on with no ballast resistor and the car ran better than ever, but I've read that it could cook the coil without it. Thanks. Mike

My garage gremlin has once again attacked my 75 280Z with 79ZX dizzy. Last week on start up it ran like crap, very rough, wouldn't idle and died. 2 hours later it started up and ran normally, then yesterday the same rough idle and dieing on start up, waited 2 hours and the same thing, rough etc. So I thought maybe just maybe it was that the Accel coil(2nd one in a year) was toast and replaced it with an old 280 coil. Car started and ran normally, tach went to 1400 but after it warmed up the tach dropped to 0, it rose to ? RPM with acceleration but dropped to zero. I put back on the same condensor by the coil which I had removed and tach then slowly came up to about 500RPM, goosed the pedal and it dropped back to about 800RPM and bounced around from 7-900. Checked the wires to the coil from the harness and they are all good. What happened? Thanks.

I dunno, looks pretty aerodynamic to me.

Allen, if the fuel pump was good with just a bad check valve, you could have just done the check valve. There is a thread on how to do it.

Welcome, you'll find lots of knowledgeable folks on here that can help solve most issues, with that said, ditto what Chas said.

chefman, I'll be down in Kyle next week and would be happy to help turn a wrench if you need it. Won't have my Z though.

Very nice first Z, I really like the color and the front spook looks similar to the one on my 75.

Werup, I have a 79 5 speed that needs to be rebuilt(no 5th gear, needs synchro I think) that you can have, just pay the shipping. PM me if interested.

Look at the "Nice 240" thread at a $7K 240Z.

Love those seats, they look very much like BMW seats from a 735Csi which is the next car I want.

I paid $2500 for my Z although a 75, it was running well and I drove it 110 miles to get it home, had nice paint and decent interior. I wouldn't pay more than 25-2800 for this one, just my 2¢.

Hey, it took me 2.9 years to get a 2 week stint on my 75.

I am once again amazed by the enormous amount of knowledge by folks in this club!