mjr45

I always liked the Fred Flintstone way of stopping when the brakes failed.

Just let me know, I'm always up for a little road trip, as long as I don't have to drive in the Denver traffic.

Where abouts in CO? I live up west of Colo. Spgs. and am willing and able, not necessarily real real knowledgeable, to help out. This club has fantastic members with tons of info on anything you might encounter.

I used a Zedd floor pan on my drivers side, but didn't need the entire pan, just the front half and my seat rails were good. It is a very good quality product and wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. Some fitting and shaping will be needed and ditto to what 26th Z said. While mine is not the prettiest job, it functions well, beats looking at the ground whizzing by under my feet.

If that is truly what your cylinder compression is, then you're in for a rebuild or buy the L28 and start over. I had to do that when my old engine exploded the #5 cylinder and welded parts of the piston to the head. There are several club members in and around Austin that could maybe help you out, try contacting the local club for some assistance, Z guys are always willing to help another Z guy.

Arne, I took off the condenser and ran the car and it ran fine with no issues, but I only ran it for about 10 minutes(long enough to get heat under the hood). The tach was steady up to 5500. Thanks. Zed, I read somewhere this AM that the module should read 400 Ohms +/- 40 and mine read somewhere around 1200, I think its bad. I also checked my TPS and it failed(wouldn't read any continuity or continuity) when checked at the ECU connector, and while that may not have much to do with the goofy running, it sure might help with the rich running condition.

Thanks Arne, will do, there is one condenser mounted on the coil bracket which I left in place when I changed to the 79 dizzy, but I'm not sure if it is in the ignition circuit, but I'll definitely take it off and see what happens. It did the same thing this AM ran great until it got a little hot under the hood, then boom back to weirdness.

Back again! Yesterday I took the Z for a short trip to town, car ran as usual revs up to 5500 with no stumble, no nothing. Stopped and got fuel and one other short stop, car starts right up only now the tach starts bouncing all over at anything over 3000 and sometimes stumbles sometimes doesn't, sometimes I can hear the engine revving but the tach is bouncing all over the place. It appears to me that something electrical gets warmed up and things go haywire, but what exactly, ign, module, coil, wiring? I'll check the module and coil today, but the coil is a brand new Accel. I'm beginning to think I have garage gremlins that just like to mess with my head!

Fastwoman, thanks for the ideas, I didn't look really closely at tomohawk's pic, but you've given me some new insight on how to mount the FPR, guess I'm not real good at thinking "outside the box."

Tomohawk, Fastwoman and Zed, I already have serious leak down issues which is part of the reason for changing the fuel rail. The injectors are new, but aren't the FJ707's which seems to be the injector of choice. My fuel pressure drops from around 34psi(with vacuum) to around 20 then down to 10 in about 10 minutes, but so far this spring I haven't had any hot start problems. My engine runs very rich as is even with the AFM calibrated, new FPR, CTS, Thermotine, and check valve. I just kinda don't like the FPR mounted on the firewall, but if thats the best place, thats where it will go.

I've got a brand new ZX FPR, but was debating using an adjustable one, just for grins and a cleaner look by attaching it directly to the end of the rail. I like pallnet's rail and may look into that if my attempts to DIY don't turn out well. I'll have to take the -6 rail to a machine shop for drilling and tapping since I don't have a drill press, doing it with a hand held drill just doesn't seem like a good idea.

What about taking 2 -6 D shaped rails and welding them together, using the curved side for the injector ports? Would there be enough metal between the two to offset any "hot" fuel problems? Just wondering, but I suspect the height of the 2 rails would interfere with the throttle linkage.

Black gold man that is sooooooo bad!

Site, I like the rail you did, but how did you get her to hold the fish? Mike

Yup I'm probably going to use the same as siteunseens' but also found one on the Zcar driver site by the name of Fubarrails, waiting to hear from him. Thanks for the advice. Mike

Zed, the fuel rail is off a 79, but one of the injector ports was bent and cracked at the base and I had it brazed to seal it, but I believe there are still some microscopic breaks. The reason I believe this, is that after any driving the car, there are small spots of sticky brown stuff on the heat shield directly underneath the #1 and 2 injector ports off the rail. After looking at the rail, I understand what you mean. Thanks for answering my question, now I can get on with making a new aluminum rail. Mike

I'm debating on making a new fuel rail(I'm convinced my rail has a couple of microscopic leaks) for my EFI Z and have a question. 1. Since on the stock rail fuel goes to thru the FPR prior to going to the injectors and CSV, shouldn't the FPR be mounted on the front of the new rail? In looking at the rails built by some members, it appears the FPR is mounted on the firewall at the back of the aluminum rail. Am I just missing something regarding fluid dynamic's here? My idea is that if I mount an adjustable FPR to the front of the rail directly from the fuel hardline and then run the back of the rail to the fuel return line, I would better approximated what the stock rail is doing. Please correct my thinking on this. Thanks.

Tomo, I attached the power feed directly to the battery, was that a bad thing to do?

I saw this yesterday, but can't get to Arkansas to pick it up. Might be a good deal for someone closer to make a few $.

Z rrios?

Zed, how do you put calipers on the wrong side, amazing. On mine the PO spent big $ for a nice Persimmon red paint job with purple ghost flames that covered the hood and fenders. I could have tried to match the paint and kept it red but decided to go a whole different direction. I will admit if or when I sell her, the next owner will probably say" WTF did he do this for?."

Zed just as an FYI, I took the Z out today with several stops after some running on the Interstate and up and down the mountain no hot restart issues. Stock 79 fuel rail, stock 75 pump with new check valve, nothing special. Outside temp was only 62°.

Very nice, I always liked the roadster, but have never driven one. I used to want an MGB but all the weird British stuff turned me off. Have fun.

Welcome Charles, you'll find lots of very very valuable insight and help from members here. Ditto to what jfa said in post #4, go slow and work methodically, tag and bag EVERYTHING every nut, bolt, washer, screw, panel etc. etc. take lots of pics and save for reference. Do lots of reading and research and download a copy of the FSM(I'm not a fan of Chiltons or Haynes).

After speaking with madkaw, I ended up advancing the static timing to 16-17° to get full mech advance to around 31-32° and no vacuum advance(the vacuum advance dash pot is toast). Leaving the vacuum off, the car runs great up around 5500 RPM which is good enough for me. Checking the plugs after a short 35 mile run, they were starting to get to the tan/brown color except for #3 and #6 which were still sooty looking. I changed the plugs to the BPR6ES-11(for the 79 dizzy) and I'll check later today after a 130 mi. trip and see if getting the timing sorta right will help with the mixture. Thanks for all the help, I know I'll be back with more questions(issues?).