mjr45

I had a similar issue on my 75, it turned out to be the fuel pump switch on the AFM, it wasn't making the correct contact. Look very closely at the contact point. Like SteveJ what have you tested?

240Z very nice exhaust, I am using the stock head pipe, which doesn't really much matter because from there back is very much like a stock exhaust. I'll keep looking for exhaust hangers. Mike's Z yep too bad about the cutout's, would go nice on my 49 Chevy P/U which is starting to be restored.

Really like that MGA, not original paint but love the way its done. Nice looking Z. Is that a yellow Henry J in there ?

I did the carpet, headliner, A pillars, the top windshield panel and both head side panels. I think I got a couple of kits from MSA or Black Dragon, my seats were in good shape so no resto on them. It's not a hard job, but is time consuming, make sure you use a good adhesive and measure carefully 2-3 times before you cut anything. I also used sound deadening from Eastwood which compared well to Dynamat at 1/3 less cost, put it on all floors, roof and inside door panels, made a huge difference and helped with the exhaust fumes. Good luck with the resto, just take your time, I would probably live with the sunroof until you can afford a new roof skin.

The shop I use makes the hangers from plain round stock and they were trying to figure out how to use solid hangers with no rubber, at which point I said whoa! I'll figure it out myself and brought the car back home with an open exhaust, about 18" of stock exhaust from the header down, Sounded kinda cool but couldn't tolerate it for very long.

5 months, WOW, that'll be a butt load of work in that time frame, I wish you the best, mine has been 2 years doing a "refresh."

Thanks Jeff, I'll check that out,

Generally new hangers are small bar stock that is cut, bent and welded on the exhaust with some type of slip in rubber mount to the frame. The original Z hangers had a piece of rubber, looked like a strip of old tire, that bolted to the exhaust and the frame. With the bolt on parts on mine now pile of rusted broken bolts I'm kind lost as to what to tell the shop.

The exhaust hangers both metal and rubber parts were absolutely toast on my 280/ The local shop where I get exhaust work done is great on big Detroit V-8's, not so much and Datsun's. They looked at the car and got the deer in headlight look when I said I need new hangers for custom exhaust they are building, any idea's for building new hangers?

One suggestion, is to put a flange in the pipe about halfway back from the header and make the exhaust a 2 or 3 piece affair. Header to flange, flange to muffler, etc. It will make putting it all together much easier and you won't have to weld under the car.

I used some heavy duty picture frame wire and ran it on the back of the wiring holders at the top of the firewall then thru the firewall to left side of the column, cut off most of the excess and put a small wooden dowel handle on it. It works and that's all I wanted.

My original one was a jacked up PO repair, so I replaced it and at the same added another wire to the release and ran it inside the cab and hide it under the dash with small wood handle just in case the original breaks.

That's the same diagram in my FSM for 75. If you're talking about the vacuum lines for the HVAC controls that's a different story, they are usually brittle and somewhat difficult to get placed on the proper ports, and you must constantly refer to the FSM diagram and trace all the lines.

It was the same on mine, no "corrosion" to speak of, no white powdery stuff, they looked clean, but after taking some 40 grit paper them it was covered with this lead colored powder. Oh well live and learn, now to fix that damn turn signal for about the 4th time.

Yep Captain, you got me.

Zed thanks for the advice because now I feel like a complete idiot. I checked the cables by looking at voltage between + and - cables and it was 5. something, took the cables off and really cleaned them and the posts which didn't show any corrosion put them back on and viola' started right up and all is good, now I've just got to fix the left turn signal which I'm pretty sure is in the column switch, not an electrical issue. Thanks again. One of these days I'll learn to start with the simple stuff first and not chase zebra's and then look at the simple things.

Zed, I'm not getting anything with the key in the start or on position, no lights, no solenoid click. I also tried using a jumper wire from the + post to the exiciter post for the solenoid/starter and got absolutely nothing, not even a spark, but the battery reads 12+volts.

Thanks for all the replies, I spoke to my son who does electrical stuff on aircraft and according to him, battery's can show good volts but as soon as a load is applied the voltage drops way down, which would cause whats happening, and that when on the charger, it probably doesn't put out enough amps to turn the starter. So I'll be buying a new battery and will let everyone know what happens. I hate electrical crap!

I had the charger hooked up for about 2 hours and still no joy, the starter solenoid clicks and lights work with the charger in place but stone cold dead without it. I know the charger is good because its been trickle charging my deep cycle battery's for 2 days and brought the charge up on them. I think you're right Captain, it has voltage but no amps, which matbe why it'll run the dome lamp and nothing else.

OK, went out this AM and just for grins put my charger on the battery. The charger showed a full charge, but now the lights work, and the starter solenoid clicked like mad when turned to start, just like a dead battery would do when charging. I checked all my ground connections and they were all making good contact (not with a meter), so now I'm really puzzled could it really be the battery even when it shows good voltage, its about 2 years old? Could it be the alternator suddenly gone bad, I've noticed the gauge kinds flickering on the + side, but yesterday was steady right in the middle?

I've checked the fuse panel and the fusible links with a multimeter. The fuse panel shows 0 volts, the fusible links read same as the battery voltage, checking both sides of the link. There is no juice getting to the fuse box.

Nope they're clean.

Well I was going to put the Z up for sale but now I can't. It has been running very well with multiple stops and turning it off. Today it ran great all day except the left turn signal quit working (bulbs are all good), got home and went to move it and no start, no lights, no fuel pump no nothing except the dome light which goes on and off, if I hit the Hazard switch the dome blinks with the blinker of the hazard. Nothing else works. Battery checked and is above 12V, fusible links check fine, no blown fuses. What the hell is going on? Maybe its rebelling for wanting to sell her!

Just a quick note of thanks to all the members of the club, without your help and valuable advice I could have never completed my Z "refresh" project. I only have the A/C to evac and recharge and she is basically done. Unfortunately I have to sell her on to someone who might appreciate a classic Z car, I hate to see her go. Once again thanks for the help.

Just to kill this thread, I found a tiny tiny crack in the vacuum line going thru the firewall to the control valve, The line was cracked right where it met the firewall. Now all is well. thanks for all the help.