mjr45

Not yet Dennis, I've been unable to do much since I'm on crutches for a couple or more days but will check all that stuff again. Thanks.

Steve I've already run a wire thru the nozzle and the line going to that nozzle is clear. Thanks for the replies.

Thanks Dennis I never thought of using aquarium line. I can blow fluid in the line out of the nozzle, but the pump just won't push it thru.

I put a new wiper fluid pump (AutoZone generic) on, the old pump was rusted and never worked, checked the lines and nozzles, all clear. I get fluid from only the drivers side nozzle. Any suggestions?

When I can walk again (Monday) I'll check I may have the rod that goes to the pivot but its off a 280.

Talbots. I've got the cheap plastic ones painted to match, but will change them when I can afford a much better set, also needed them to put the car on the road.

Nice ride! When I was 16 I drove a Vespa scooter, my how times have changed, but then I'm about 4X older, keep up the good work.

When I replaced mine with an extra one I had I just replaced the whole thing as a unit. The rubber blocks on mine are not attached they just sit up above the axels and prevent wearing the steel cable. Probably not much help.

Nicely done. Wish my dash was uncracked!

Thanks for all the comments, will let everyone know what happens.

Yup you're right, thanks.

Thanks for the ideas, I realize the value is what someone is willing to pay, but guess's?

Thanks for the comments, I'm now debating on selling her to start on another project, but not real sure on pricing. I know I'll never get what I've got in her and that's OK it was the fun of doing the project and learning new skills. I've finally got her running well and she looks stunning (to me at least). She is a 75 with a 79 block and rebuilt N42 head, custom 2.5" exhaust, all new weather stripping thru out, new poly bushings, new driver floor pan and rail, sound proof matting thru out, new injectors and wiring connectors for the EFI, new carpeting, new headliner and all new vinyl, full dash cap(on it when I got her), no rust that I can find now, new windshield, bunch of other new stuff I can't recall. I have all the receipts of what was bought. I just need some ideas of she might be worth, its not matter of having to sell her any time soon, just need some ideas of her value. Thanks to all.

I agree with EScanlon, my driver side pan looked great with the tar mat in place, but from the bottom, only had a couple of rotted peices of metal holding it all together, with the tar mat gone was putting my foot on the ground!

Nope haven't checked but will, thanks. I'm seriously thinking of changing to a MegaSquirt.

Today a total stranger asked to take a pic of my Z, so I thought it might be time to share with the members. Its a 75 280Z which I painted (first paint job) in my "garage booth." I replaced or refurbed almost everything form the ground up, learned to weld new floor pans and other areas (still not a good welder but learning). There are stil some body panels I'm not happy with and need to sand and buff some more, the stripes need work. I've still got a couple of electrical gremlins to chase away and still looking to get her perfectly tuned, but she runs very well and is great in the twisty's. Thanks to many many members of the forum for all their help in getting me thru this project, I couldn't have done it all without your assistance.

Nice looking Z. You will have to replace that floor pan pretty soon, check the frame rail under the pan and you may find more rust, good luck with your Z and her running for a long time.

Well done! I didn't think there were any Z's left in the bone yards here, I haven't found any that were close anyway.

Yup, agree with LeonV, fix the rich condition, it may take a while, I've been trying to fix the rich on my 75 for about 3 months, but it will be worth it in the end.

Changed the FPR and didn't seem to make much difference but I only ran it for a few minutes. In going thru the EFI Bible checks, I got some off ohm readings on the AFM resistance checks, one should be about 180 mine was 240, the second check should be about 100 mine was 112. In doing the fuel system pressure found the CSV was non working, no fuel getting to it at all, the fuel pressure bleed down to 0 in about 10 seconds, but I am sure the pressure gauge was leaking fuel, initial pressure was about 38 with engine off. The TPS checked OK. So bottom line is I'm stuck and can't figure this b**ch out!

I'm wiring in a set of driving lights on 75 280Z. I'm using a standard 4 pole relay and SPST(lighted) switch. I'm not going to tap into any of the light circuits. I think I have this right but need a verification. Driving light + to pole # 87 Batt + with in line fuse to pole # 30 Switch ON to pole # 86 Switch OFF to batt + Ground to pole # 85 Driving lights each to ground. Thanks for any input

Already did, the temp sensor has a 2 wire connector and the temp sender is a single wire, I even switched the thermotine and temp sensor wires to make sure I hadn't put them on the wrong sensors, I hadn't, it ran like crap with switched wires.-

I ordered a new FPR yesterday, so we'll see if that makes any difference. Z's are non existant in bone yards around here. Does anyone know for sure what those 2 white wires are for? I can't seem to locate them on the wiring diagrams, but maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Yesterday after driving up the mountain, I stopped for a few minutes and when started it ran rough was coughing acting like it wasn't getting fuel and spluttering for about 90 secs then ran OK.

I don't believe my Z has the "altitude compensator", but there are 2 wires that hanging loose next to the ECU, I have wondered what they are for since ther doesn't seem to be any connection for them. Unfortunately, I don't have access to an oscilloscope. Thanks for the help.

Wade, if its true that for an increase in altitude 1000'=1" drop in pressure from sea level, then my vacuum reading would be 21" since I live at 9000' altitude. Does that make sense? Thanks for the link.