mjr45

I put in a molded kit and it was a b***h to work with, its looks OK, not great but OK, has some gaps in places but works. The molding process doesn't take into account some of the various contours in the cabin and doesn't fit nice and smooth, at least it didn't on my kit, I think I got it from MSA in cut pile.

There was a Z in the mid to late 70's that was strictly a GP race version that had the whale tail, fender flares and air scoops, also had a type of G nose only saw it one time, it looked good painted deep black. I dunno about this one, pleated velour interior and no fuzzy dice hangin from the mirror whats up with that?

I like the mirror.

I'm no expert on either the 240 or the 280, I've owned 1 240 and 3 280's and have found that with the use of some of the new aerodynamic body kits which lose the bumpers on the 280 which will drop a lot of lb's and some fairly easy suspension mods that the 280 can be made to handle and perform very well. While my current EFI system has been a PITA to get right, once done can be pretty low maintainence, but I still love the sound and performance of carbs. So its really a choice of which car you like I love the 240 set up in pristine concours condition.

Yup, me too. I remember cursing Johnson for sending me to sunny fun filled Vietnam.

I feel like a moron, the sequence is the same, whether its CW or CCW. All is good, timing is pretty close to right on and the fuel mix is right, revs strongly in all gears up to about 6K. Thanks to everyone for all the help, this site has some amazing folks who are willing to help, special kudos to Fastwoman and Zed head.

Agree with Idaho, with the visible rust there is lots more hidden. If you can do the body work and paint it might be worth $500-$900, but not $1500. Its gonna take you a while to make it a daily driver quickly unless you have some deep pockets. Just my opinion.

Fastwoman, you can't be THAT old, now me I was the medic on Noah's Ark.. For now I think I'm going to use the 180 version, don't feel like pulling the oil pump again, since I have to take off the stabilizer bar to get to it.

A little conflict here, I'll try both and see which one works best the 75 FSM says 1,4,2,6,3,5.

I have ZX dizzy as well and used the firing order in the FSM, but I've seen 2 different firing orders on the site, 1,4,2,6,3,5 and 1,5,3,6,2,4. I used the 1st one from the 75 FSM, but the dizzy is from a 79. It ran like crap (expected @ 180 out), had a stumble and died without giving it fuel.

Next chapter, I just swapped the plug wires 180 degree's and it started, ran really bad, so I must have put the oil pump and dizzy back 180 degree's off, I'll fix that tomorrow.

Here is the latest in the saga, I pulled the oil pump and lined it up correctly, the #1 cam lobes at 10 and 2, the timing mark at 0, and set the dizzy with #1 at the proper position, firing per the FSM. Tried to start it and no joy, 1 really loud afterfire (scared the hell out of my wife she thought something had exploded), turns over but no start, checked the fuel pressure while trying to start and got 38-40+ psi, lots of gas smell.

Fastwoman thanks for all your info, I've replaced all the 2 pin connectors and both the 3 pin TPS and the 7 pin AFM the temp and thermotine connections were cleaned up and checked per the FSM, but I'm not positive the checks were accurate so I'll recheck them, I don't believe the CSV is leaking but will recheck it as well and also the fuel pressure. The spring on the AFM moves a little about 2-3mm at idle and takes probably less than 60g of pressure to finger open which is why I said I didn't feel much tension on the spring. Today I'm going to pull the oil pump and try to get the timing fixed and go then go back to the fuel/air mixture issue. I have the FSM and the EFI Bible. Thanks for all the help.

Time to go on the hunt for a 76+ that I can get the seat belt hardware out of.

On my 280, I left off the fender badges and will be putting on the black stripe 280 Z decal just above the rockers. I know its not original but I don't care, I think it looks good.

Tell me about it! I replaced the dizzy with a 79ZX and wired it per Atlantic Z and couldn't get it to turn over the starter, the "mechanic I took it to ran a jumper wire from the blue/black wire in the wiring harness directly to the starter and took off the exciter wire, it starts but I don't think thats the right way to do it but can't figure out what else to do.

I'm wondering one of the engineering type folks on the site could figure out a relocation of that upper back location?

Tranny is not open, I a little fearful of taking that on besides I'm still stuck on the*#**ing EFI.

Not bad, not bad at all. This from someone who is really old and prefers AC/DC and Ozzie.

Fastwoman, the I set the TPS per Atlantic Z and believe its OK, the CSV, coolant emp and FPR I will have to check. When I leaned out the AFM the spring didn't seem to have a lot of tension on it, but I'm not sure how exactly to tell or how to fix it. Yup I know that Pete is right, this was how I got it from the "mechanic" and haven't yet gotten around to pulling the oil pump to remedy the problem, but may have to in order to get the rest of it right.

I've tried the sheepskin pads and they helped but still rub against the neck, the Loopo things I've got in truck for the same issue are OK but the seat belt flops around after taking the belt off using it on the shoulder strap, couldn't get to work by putting it on both straps where the buckle is. Guess I'll try a combo of both things to get some comfort.

As another note, the timing is at 17 degrees and the dizzy won't allow any less timing. The number 1 plug was moved over 1 spot to get it to run at all, when I tried putting the #1 back, it coughs but won't start.

I tweaked the AFM towrds the lean side and the engine ran much smoother up to about 2500, on driving it above 3000rpm there was a stumble, no power and the tach was bouncing around from 3000-5000rpm.

Does anyone know of a fix for the seat belts in my 75 Z in both seats the shoulder strap cuts into your neck and gets really annoying having to pull it off your neck constantly. Thanks.

I didn't read the whole ad on e-bay or thru on the BaT site, I just thought the comments were worth noting.